detritus21
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Everything posted by detritus21
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With a 12" bar the saw is likely to bog down. I have a saw with 18 and 15 bars. The difference in the amount of times you start to bog down is massive between the two. With the 18 on its quite easy for it to start to struggle drop to the 15 and I've had no problems. This is on a 43cc saw but the same would apply to smaller saws. The drop of 2" on a smaller engine saw will make a difference to cutting abilty and speed of cut.
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3 from the other week. Yes I did use a ladder but only because I couldn't be doing with climbing another 18 feet on top of the 30 or so I had to do already. Tree was getting on for 80 feet only know this as rope nearly wasn't long enough. Giving it a bit of a crown clean with the pruning saw a pleasent couple of hours or so. Nearly couldn't get the throw line into the tree which could have been an embarresment.
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H&S definitely gone mad. I mean using a bowsaw up a ladder. Should have been using a silky
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I've leaflet dropped. I had very little work from December through to March so spent an a few afternoons leafleting. Its soul destroying as I have had very little interest but like has been said desparate times and all that.
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What you may be wanting are a combination of speed distance calculations and force calculations. I did A level physics and maths back in the day and vaguely remember working out stuff like above. v=u+at where v = final velocity u = initial velocity + acelleration x time v= 9.81x3 final velocity is 29.43 metres per second s=0.5xat2 therefore the distance fallen is 0.5*9.81*9 = 44m approx 150feet I may come back and calculate the force later. But my brain hurts.
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I'd also go down the diesel route.
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It will be fine. You'll find it very hard to burn out a stove with wood. Shut your vent down a bit and it will burn slower. The metallic smell will be just as is curing further as the fire gets even hotter. Also it could be the door curing if you run it doors open alot.
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Google searches by, what are called, spiders and bots. They automatically trawl the web for sites. You need good keywords and titles on your pages. It is also worth submitting your site to google via webmaster tools. This doesn't guarentee that you will appear on google. It took over 6 months to appear in a web based listing. You can also submit your company into google listings which when you type in tree surgeon xasdasd will come up with a list in that area at the top of the page along with a map. You can link from this to your website. This is an instant thing.
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I'll let Orrell Machinary know. He says he has people trying to flog cheap him stuff from time to time. I'll keep an eye out. Pm me the landy reg it'll probably be long gone but I'll see if I spot anything.
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Theres always Manheim on the East Lancs. Hit and Miss as its an auction usually ex utilities and fleet vehicles. Be warned though prices can go crazy
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You will get mega regrowth where ever you cut it. An Ash in my garden was badly pruned (read butchered) before I moved in. Mega growth but mostly out of the tips that have been cut. I suppose you could just chop it in half but it wouldn't be best for the tree. You'd be better off felling and replanting in my oppinion.
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I've got one to do close to 20feet. Previously badly topped everything back to the main branches lots of stubs etc now lots of new growth. I'm reducing it by about 40% of its overall crown. Its a bit more than you'd want to take as can reduce fruiting next year. The ideal amount is about 30% length of new growth each year this would provide sufficient new growth for fruiting without overloading the tree. Plan with the one I'm doing is to be a little harsh this year and get it back on track next.
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I'd go with a Makita saw if buying new. Once you get past the colour of the things I think you get more for your money then buying a new sthil or husq. That or find a friendly second hand dealer who can get you a good saw. My local place was selling a 70cc sthil at 250 quid then again he does good deals with me. By the way the saws are legit before anyone asks.
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My dog hasn't quite graspped the idea of kindling. He prefers to create shreddings
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No suprise to me. I burn it myself and its good to burn.
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Once split I've found conifer and poplar to season to 25% in just a few months. I love burning the stuff. There are a lot of misconseptions about what is good or not to burn. I've had a lot of kiln dried off cuts the custumers that have actually agreed to try them can't get enough. Its actually getting people to try the wood that is the hard thing as there are a lot of stupid beliefs amongst customers.
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Most I've seem a dumpy bag round my way is £90. Coal isn't cheap either wholesale or otherwise. Cheap house coal is costing my coal merchant £20-140 pounds per tonne delivered to his yard. He then has to make a profit having his time and fuel put into the equation. Its hard work as well. I've done the odd hour here and there with him. Lugging 50kg bags about all day is hard work. Some of his smokeless coal has to be sold at £22 a bag to make it profitable. No fuel is cheap anymore except alot of the logs advertised on ebay that is.
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that is a top tip. Never been shown that before
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I've got a Makita dcs9010 with 30" bar. Only downside is no decompression on it so at 90cc can make starting fun.
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Sell by volume or load as said above. If you use weights you become part of weights and measures which means inspections and monitoring.
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How much for a level HiLux of well-seasoned hardwood in Mendip?
detritus21 replied to wanstronian's topic in Firewood forum
Could be worse there are a few in my area that think unseasoned wood is good because it burns for longer. -
I'd go for a makita saw. If you aren't doing masses of chopping then a dcs4301 with 15" bar will do most stuff you want and will only set you back 250 ish pounds as opposed to the stihl or husky versions which will set your back well over 300 pounds if not 400 for a new one.
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The biggest draw back of the figure8 is to install it onto your rope you have to unclip it from your harness. If you were to then drop said figure8 you have the potential to come unstuck. Yes I know you can descend on a prussik etc but this is one of the major reasons for work at height using devices such as the stop as it should stay clipped to you whilst you install it.
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I was up there just before christmas and was wondering who had left some half finished trees
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Slippery wooden bridge- suggestions?
detritus21 replied to Kat1e's topic in Forestry and Woodland management
Another option is stable matting cut to fit. Basically very heavy suty rubber matting with nobbles on it. The council used it on a bridge near me and it is one of the best non slip applications I've seen. You can usually get 6 foot by 4 foot sheets for 20 to 40 pounds.
