detritus21
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Everything posted by detritus21
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The aroma of fruit woods is also good when its seasoned and you get a good heat. The difference between your open fire and a stove for seasoned wood is you have more control of the speed of burn with a stove particularly the ones that self regulate with a thermostat so you can regulate the rate of burn and subsequently the heat output.
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If its too wet it has to make all the water boil off which uses a lot of energy thus not giving as much heat. In the case of a stove you can turn it right down when you have dry wood which gives a more efficient burn. The wetter the wood the more you have to burn to get the heat.
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I'd burn lime it will burn fine when seasoned. Not sure how long to season for though.
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Its about £2.80 in one local and £2.20 in the other. 2 other local pubs have shut.
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For stuff like SRT, footlocking etc then dynamic rope has too much bounce. I use a dynamic rope for mine-exploration (which you ain't meant to use) and its hard work trying to climb a rope that stretches. A good example of this is I abseiled partway into a shaft into a side tunnel unhooked went for a crawl came back and tied in again. Came to climb back up stepped out of the inset and promptly dropped 6 foot because of the stretch in the rope. I could see the advantages for dynamic rope in a situation where you fall as its alot more comfortable to fall onto a dynamic bit of rope rather than static. I think once you are in a tree a dynamic rope would perform as well as a static one but its getting up there in the first place that will knacker you out.
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Depends what you want to use it for. For towing they ain't bad but I'm not sure what they are rated to tow. Load space in a commercial wouldn't be too bad for kit. The TD4 is a good engine but remember its a reletively old engine now. For day to day driving don't expect much more than 35MPG. They tend to wallow a bit in corners. It will hold 70+ on the motorway and pick up fairly quick for a diesel tank. The freelander is only part time 4x4 having a visous coupling. If this goes wrong its expensive. Lack of low range is the biggest problem as you'll find you have to slip the clutch if off road. Off road they will do at least 80% of what a defender will do. They have a lower ground clearance and reduced ramp over and entry and exit angles compared to a defender. Watch out for oil leaks it is a land rover.
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I've used castrol 2 stroke oils and find them fine. I used to find with some oils the spark plug would clog where as since running a semi-synthetic Castrol oil I don't get any problems. Just make sure it meets the spec the saw requires. I run mine at 40:1 as its not a Makita branded oil even though the spec is the same
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Depends really. The typical length of time is between 2 years and 4 years depending on what you read. If you split and stack in an area that will get good prevailing winds then it will dry/season quicker. At a guess I'd say minimum of a year if split stacked and left to dry so you are looking next winter really.
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which one?
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I got my 9010 priced matched by my local dealer against the Lawson-his price. My dealer reckons that they'll only make about 20 quid off the sale thats how cheap Lawsons are doing them.
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Do the new ropes not have a SWL on them. Provided you don't exceed the SWL of the rope there is nothing wrong or dangerous about it. As long as you think its safe and forfills the criteria of LOLER in that its not damaged whats the problem
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Its currently got a 29" bar on and scares the hell out of me which is good. It is quite heavy I'd agree. Its my first experience with a big saw and I'm not disapointed. I think what I'll end up doing is getting a smaller bar for my small saw and a 20" bar and the the 29" is there for the bigger stuff.
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My first saw was a smaller version of that one not bad I suppose a little slow. Mine died of a terminal fault half way through a conifer. the chainbrake stuck on and there is no adjustment on it at all. Game over for that one. Ok its not got the nice orange or blue colour. Personally if I think you are comfortable using it with the right size bar then cut away
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I've just gone and got myself a makita dcs9010. I know its a 90cc saw rather than a 70 or 80. What do reckon I could get away with on the smaller bar sizes? I know a 20" bar will fit and work as the manual says what about say for example and 18" bar or is that overkill. Can't wait to get it home and let it rip. Cost 546 including the VAT compare that to a similar sized Husq or Stihl you can see why I went for a blue saw.
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I could imagine it could be more of a problem in the south of the country. In the North West the gritters are out alot normally anyway so don't think it will do much up here. I do think the colder winter will be better as it does help to kill off pests and diseases. A lot of diseases are blamed on the warmer winters we've had over the past 10 years or so.
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Which one is it. I've now got two or will do tommorow. I've a little dcs430 which is ok a bit underpowered but I've bit the bullet and got a dcs9010 for an absolute bargain. I'm debating how small a bar I can run on it before its a bit OTT. Cracking pictures by the way
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I split and stack onto old pallets. Keeps the logs off the floor. I'm just starting to cover them having been keeping them completly in teh open.
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Going back to anchoring I've used SRT a bit but more playing about in the garden and down mine shafts rather than doing any proper work. For me I loop over a high branch anchor to the base of the tree if there are no others near by or an adjacent tree/anchor if there is. At a recent mine shaft I went down the anchor point was about 50m from the shaft which made it interesting as to make up the distance meant using a dynamic rope as well as a static. Makes ascending interesting as there is a huge amount of bounce but that shouldn't be a problem in arb work.
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I think what you have down is very good but I would echo the comments made by Aarron Woodfuels. I know that in my area the quality varies alot. I wouldn't buy from the big supplier in my area having been dissapointed with how wet the wood was. There is another supplier who charges only 40 pounds a bulk bag. My advice would be if you find a good supplier or one you are happy with stick with them. Knowing about volumes is important. I've not known anyone in the UK sell by the cord recently and most sell by cubic metre or portions there of. I'll sell by the load but can tell you what volume of wood you will get in that load if asked.
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The reason I split and store the way i do is I want a quick return. In the round or in rings it can take two years or more to season wood. On the thefy point I can see where you are coming from. I've found though for some reason people round me like to steal the freshly cut logs still in the round rather than split stuff. I don't bag anything until sale so as to make it a bit harder for theiving. They also have a liking for diesel and coal as opposed to wood.
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Oops I actually meant sell at 25% or less rather than 30% and it tends to be down towards 20% by the time I do sell it.
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I'll sell when the water content is below 30%. In practice however it is usually 25% or lower now. Also I don't believe people who say it takes two years to season wood. Maybe in the round it does but I try and split as soon possible after the wood enters the yard. Doing this I have got the moisture content of Sycamore from off the scale on the meter 50%+ to 25% in less than 3 months. At this point it burns well. All my firewood at present is split and seasoned it the open. I think it may season slightly quicker if it was under a roof of some description. I take my readings for moisture by splitting a piece of seasoned wood and taking readings along its length as it does vary alot. You can test on the end and it may be 20% but in middle it could still be way over a suitable value. These are just my thoughts anyhow.
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88" series 2 landrover still gets used and abused for carrying all my logs. I'm looking for a tipper but it has to be the right price so can't find one. Its suprising how much brash you can squeeze into an 88. Perfect for hedges but snything larger than a small silver birch forget it.
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Any idea what these weigh? Just wondering also how easy it would be to bold a set of indespension units on to convert it to road towable as all road tow ones are way above my king of money limits
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To be honest I have most of the little bits or the bits that are too knarley to split to a good size and provide for my heating. Some smaller stuff gets thrown in with a load but not much. Other waste was getting burnt in a bin to keep me warm when its really cold at the yard but some swine bag has nicked the bin and had the cheek to tip the ash over the yard.
