wills-mill

Post a photo of the nasty things that you find hiding in timber! Today's effort, a GPO/ British Telecom special. I missed it by about 3mm, and only spotted the strands of wire when I'd turned the log and brushed some dust off . The poor old chainsaw rattled on the bracket a few times

I've heard no complaints about the saw head and blade guides side of things (looks a very tidy setup). The jack legs, log supports and clamps/dogs can get upset when big gnarly bits of UK Oak are loaded on. If you are thinking of regularly milling 3ft logs, then it might not be tough enough long term? I bet it's great for smooth and tidy medium sized timber.....

Floor scraper, unless you want to cross Mr Wravor's palm with euros for a mega-bog brush

The Mobius looks good from Mr Techmoan's review, keep meaning to get one.

Just in case it helps anyone who is doing a home fabrication job on an arch- (If you are looking for sturdy hubs with easily found bearings and lots of wheel and tyre choice) We used the rear hubs from a drum braked Vauxhall (Astra, Nova, etc going back a few years now) to make our arch. They were the one of the few hubs in the scrapyard that was easy to get off and then re-attach to our steelwork. They are each held on with 4 big allen bolts. I also got them because they had the same 4 stud wheel pattern as a pair of small Kubota flotation tyres that I'd been given. In the end we found that the standard Vaux wheel was more than adequate for some substantial pulls on sensitive ground. If you're feeling keen about brakes, then the drums are quite handy as the cable would be quite easy to work from.

Thanks. Every day's a school day. I've never really done anything with panel products/ MFC and all that edgebanding malarkey.

That bigger one is funny looking thing. Maybe made for aluminium cutting?? Edit, and it looks like the smaller one (at 180x45) might be a 'scoring' saw blade, for pre-cutting veneered and sheet boards. http://gerrymet.co.uk/acatalog/Gerrymet_Catalogue_180mm_x_45mm_bore_Conical_Scoring_Blade_78.html

A lot of Oak framers sandwich the glazing between neoprene gaskets. One side is to the green Oak, there's 'battening' around the glazing that's the same thickness as the unit. The outer face is capped with air dried Oak. I always think a flexi glue (Stixall??) or a bed of silicone would be a decent bit of insurance on mirrors. W

Could well be a set of circular multirip blades. Can you get a measurement on the bore? I'd be interested.

This chap earns his wages

That sounds an extremely logical solution

Good stuff!

Have you tried Anton Coaker? He mills up on top there.... Anton Coaker - Sawn English timber air dried naturally

Yes, of course, it's the Truckers' Hitch. Sadly neglected with the rise of the ratchet strap:

There is a Wood Machining NVQ, that quite a lot of colleges do- but it generally relies on teaching people who have a job as a minion in a supervised workshop. If it's just you on your tod, it's a bit more difficult. There are quite a lot of trainers out there who will adapt a short course or a day to the needs of your workshop- Google throws up these ones: Wood Working Machinery - Training Courses - Skills Training Centre, UK Woodwise - Woodworking machine training, assessment, and certification - City and Guilds Approved Wood Machining Training Course We don't know where you're based, but getting in touch with your local college or larger joinery firms might point you in the direction for local trainers and a bit of certification. The basics of legality and cutter setups can be found in textbooks like- Wood Machine Guide, Wright, David, Bloor, Terry, Very Good, Paperback 0748793852 | eBay And grab a download of the HSE info sheet: http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/wis40.pdf

I had some Lime that wasn't selling and I was getting a bit sick of moving. Recently advertised it on the UKworkshop site, asking for a bottle of ale or pack of biccies per plank. It's worked quite well Cheers!

There's some lovely German hornbeam parquet out there. Weissbuche I think. https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=hartbuche&es_sm=93&biw=1366&bih=705&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=J006VZz0NNXzaoDcgNAB&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAg#tbm=isch&q=weissbuche+parkett Edit: one thing to watch is that the whiter woods can get grimey and grotty pretty fast if the finish wears off.

Thanks Dave, feedback both ways is always appreciated. The Wood Mizer USA involvement in TheForestryForum has always looked very useful, let's hope Arbtalk becomes a similar venue. W The Forestry Forum- Sawmills and Milling

Does the new one tow well? I had a bright and very windy day out yesterday, up The Downs:

The blades run on V belts set into the blade wheels on the WM. So there isn't a crowned metal wheel, but the V belts wear over time and can get damaged if a blade snaps. One of the main reasons for a rough feeling and vibration through the mill is lumps of sawdust getting jammed between the belts and pulleys, probably happens once or twice a year for me. (pictures shown) This has been ongoing for maybe 20 blades, so I'm fairly happy it's not them. The mill is cutting fine, but this issue is turning into a bit of an annoyance. Yesterday I ran the saw up without a blade on to see if I could isolate whether it was drive side or idle side, but it all felt a bit inconclusive. Thanks Copfords, the guides are pretty decent, I tend to replace them if they start getting nasty. Last year I also replaced the idle side wheel bearing, that was getting grumbly. I think my next port of call is to get the covers off and check that there's no debris jammed in the engine and driveshaft pulleys, and to see if the driveshaft/ drive wheel bearings are grumbling. That must mean slackening off the brake belt to give it a spin by hand.

This looks like the first post on this bit of the forum I've got an irritating little problem on my LT40, looking for any ideas to track down the problem. With the blade driving, there's a vibration/thrumming/ pulsing feel from the saw head. Sometimes the needle on the blade tension gauge jitters a bit as well. I've just changed blade belts (B57s) and made sure there's no bark jammed in the blade wheels, the blade guide bearings also seem to be good. Any ideas before I dig further? W

Back in the pre electric days, most planers and sawbenches weren't powered directly by flat belt/ lineshafting as the high speeds were tricky to obtain without tiny pulleys and tortured belts. They generally had an intermediate or countershaft to gear up the belt speed. There's a possibility you could do the same with flat or V belts, but maybe best would be a 'speed up' PTO gearbox. PTO (Speed Up) Gearboxes for gear pumps - Speed up Gearbox 3:1 Ratio ML52B - Phoenix Hydraulics Perhaps a PTO generator is the most practical way to go if you've no power on site. We've only got single phase but have a large rotary phase converter fitted which will happily run a massive extractor and several workshop machines at the same time. It's an excellent bit of kit, even if I don't fully understand the witchcraft that's happening within!

We've got one of the long log cushions. My best guess is American White Oak. It's great

The Sumo was Subaru's little van. Getting very rare now... You do see VW Transporter Syncro's around, but perhaps that's too big?