wills-mill

Tough Mudder is all a bit too corporate and sanitised Mr Mouse and his mighty Tough Guy are indeed the original and best It's truly bonkers.

Fergie bandtracks are the absolute bogs dollocks Thanks! http://www.solhem9.se/Broschyrbank_skogsbruk_2013/Massey_Ferguson_Ferguson_i_skogen.pdf

That thing's not exactly mobile is it now? It does look like a Trekkasaw bolted to something like the old Kirchner horizontal singl blade saw that does the rounds of the shows. And maybe the bed is a section of Stenner carriage mill? The turning mechanism is just visible, I can see a big digger arm in the first picture! When it comes to cutting 5ft trees, surely swing blade mills are where it's at?

That was probably mine! The old Trukloder was a beastly little machine, very agressive feed with sharp blades,-to the point where you had to hold onto very frithy and leafy limbs to stop the chipper choking herself. The mounting was really easy, the whole Entec unit is just bolted down with 4 bolts through a flat baseplate. The whole rig was a bit nose heavy and was best taken downhill backwards, it's possible to get the chipper a bit more central, but it means cutting away on the baseplate. Before it was tracked, I had it bolted onto the bucket 'shelf' at the front of a mini digger trailer that was fitted with greedy boards, so I could chip and haul with the same 4x4. I think you'll have to talk to the 'wee chipper club' to find out if there is anything of that size for sale... Good luck!

Top effort, sending all those samples! Steve, just looking at your website at all your skittle varieties- do you have a copy of the mighty Pub Games book? What a brilliant read. [ame=http://www.amazon.co.uk/Pub-Games-England-Timothy-Finn/dp/0362002460]Pub Games of England: Amazon.co.uk: Timothy Finn: 9780362002461: Books@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/61%2B-DVdH0oL.@@AMEPARAM@@61%2B-DVdH0oL[/ame]

I still can't help thinking you look like the bad dude in The Simpsons Lleylandi is good stuff (sssh don't tell anyone)- and so is Lawson's Cypress which is quite highly prized in the States, and known as Port Orford Cedar over there....

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Still very happy with my Ace (1.6), bought to replace a stolen Tirfor. The build quality is a bit cheesier, but for the price it is superb, it has rolled and tweaked some monstrous bits of timber onto the mill for me. By the look of it, the 'mid priced' winches badged as Yale or Draper are exactly the same as an ACE so there's probably no point thinking that they are any better quality.

It's quirky looking stuff, must be very useful for saw plastics, bits of vehicle, adding grip to controls, lighting the dark.... I've not taken the plunge yet, anyone else? http://youtu.be/0FgGne5tYrg http://youtu.be/hPusY-UjhMY

If you are in Hailsham, you're not a million miles from Southern Sheeting Supplies in East Grinstead. They do usually have a large stock of seconds and shop soiled roofing tin. They've always been excellent when I've put up buildings- I generally get the sheets first and work the building out from there. Good Luck! Roofing Products, Cladding Materials, Metal Sheeting - Sussex UK Southern Sheeting Supplies

Hi, I'd like a little advice on web hosting services. I quite like using Wordpress (blog site) as a way to input my own content, but I now realise that the free-to-use service (wordpress.com) has some serious limitations when it comes to being noticed and ranked by search engines- even though it hosts the content for free which was great. I'd like to use the paid service (wordpress.org), but then I have to sort out my own web hosting for my content, which seems fine when the costs are added together. I doubt it's ever going to be a massive site and there are a lot of deals out there from players all over the planet, but I'd like if at all possible to use someone I can ring up in this country when I don't understand the technical stuff and need a grown-up. I've got a couple of website domain names registered with a firm called Namehog, I've used them in the past and would have happily used them again, but it seems that they've gone downhill since a takeover early in the year. Any suggestions....?

Decent stacking should be a big part of a thread like this. Cruddy stacking is a great way to lose money and timber quality. Stick thicknesses, bearer sizes and spacing, shading/ overhang/ cover, pile width and siting all come into it. I'm not brave enough to tackle it at the moment, but I'll try and get some photos together. W

One of the Land Rover magazines did a big test of LED spots and work lights last month. Very interesting reading, obviously the £300 Hellas and the like did very well There were some really top end bits of kit there as well as the £20 cheapies that wouldn't make you cry if you smashed one up. The Chinese jobbies all tended to need a lot more watts to give an inferior amount of light. I keep looking at the Durite and Britax ranges, they seem pretty decent in terms of quality and price led (durite, britax) work | eBay

Guessing it's best to stick to phenolic ply for trailer flooring, Stokbord does get a bit cheesy and floppy when it's sunny. It's probably quite easy to gouge bits out of as well. W

Brilliant, talk to Clare Prosser. Always excellent service, lots of fabric choice and very helpful. They have all sorts of standard sized heavy duty tarps on the website, well worth the money. I made up a canopy for a firewood processor this year with one of their market stall stripey jobs, it's quite a nice light and airy place to be. 2 different A-frame jobs below. W

What's the surface of the wheels on your mill? Is it V-belts in a groove like a Woodmizer, or rubber bonded on to steel. There may be grot built up under the V-belt or the surface may be deformed? Can you give us an idea of when the bands jump off? before, during, after cut?

£5 million PL and £10 million EL is under £900 per annum with one of the suppliers mentioned above £1 million public liability would bring that down I would imagine.

Do Guilliets use a set of weights to strain the band? That's how Stenners do it....

Sawing softwoods is much harder for the saw IMO. Clogging dust, naughty sap, rings of rock hard resinous knots, cheeky band squeezing Larch- it all goes on and makes much more work for the band. I think there's a bit of difference in the use of the word 'tension': Winding the blade up tight between the wheels was usually known as 'straining' the blade for big old bandmills. Stretching and setting the body of the blade (on the saw doctors bench) so that it tracks well and holds the teeth tight and straight when put on a crowned wheel is/was called tensioning. Again, I've only fairly limited wide band experience, but we did notice (when strapping the bands up to go for sharpening) that some of the bands that seemed to have decent teeth but still messed around would not sit nice and flat on the floor when taken off the saw. When they were sat with the width of the band flat on the floor, there are definitely some bands that undulated up and down off the floor and had floppy sections. We've just moved house and everything's boxed up, but I'll try and scan some bits out of this book: The Art of Saw Doctoring Wide Bandsaws by Simmonds a - AbeBooks It's good some good explanations of some of the things that go into manually looking after bands, even though the author admits that there are plenty of different opinions and ways to do things. It at least taught me that I never want to try and do my own wide bands.

I've just spotted that Uncle Gruber has got some lovely blocks, decent loads and sized for smaller winch cables 'Umlenkrolle' is the magic word- Suchergebnisse für: 'umlenkrolle' - Grube KG http://www.grube.de/nordforest-pulley-sr-fs16-160-kn-16-t-payload-44-306.html

It's all a bit of a dark art, nothing is very obvious with wide bands as far as I can tell. I have found (in my limited experience) that having really good tight scrapers, oiling pads and brushes rubbing on the wheels stops grots and dust building up on the bands (which then causes tightness at the guides and heat/distortion). As far as I remember, Stenner recommend a fag paper clearance for guides that are just hardwood blocks, and lightly touching for Chaco blocks, which are a hard black plastic material. Are you cutting any different timber to normal, anything that might have picked up dust when stacked beside a farm track or road, or grown in a different wood on different soils? I'm always suspicious of resinous softwoods that have been sat around and have a load of ooze on the endgrain- it picks up abrasive dust so easily.

OK, fair enough I see where you are coming from. It's easy cutting without any real complication, with timber that isn't likely to be defective <cough, Oak> Larch and Doug aren't far off that cost down this way, and we've done plenty of jobs where we charge £4 a ft3 per ft produced out on site, so it stacks up. It looks like you manage to sell decent quantities of your hardwoods at a time, which is great. It's all too easy to spend hours dismantling the yard for someone to spend £20 (although I'm sure you get that as well!). W

That is super cheap! Sounds like £7 a cubic ft- I'm nosey enough to ask if that is a viable local price for you, Big J? I'm also presuming that the customer has to order enough for overlap, rather than you including it in the price?

Is your Guilliet a big old machine- does it run with wide bands with swaged teeth? They are much more complex to get right than a narrow band, I suspect that you're right to be worried about the tensioning, a few otherideas below: Have they been ground heavily so that they all have a serious burr on one side of the teeth? Are your guide blocks set nice and tight, wheels are clean and scrapers and oilers working well? Are you tracking the blade out from the wheel too far or even too close to the wheel so the teeth are getting hammered out of shape? I do get the feeling that hands-on saw doctoring has given way to more automated tackle that is run by operatives who do not understand sawing so well. My experience is that it's fairly easy to find someone to put on a good tooth edge and setup, but if it comes to crack repairs and work tensioning the body of the blade then you can be in difficulty. I noticed that BSW in Scotland are taking on saw doctoring apprentices. Good on 'em!

Landwirt is an Austrian farm and forest technical site, their videos are always a good watch for different ways of doing things and Euro techniques, lots of mountainside and small equipment work as well as the big stuff. My German is pretty much non existent, if you've any questions perhaps someone with a bit more knowledge will step in: Anti rollover system for radio controlled winching Tractor winch test procedure 6 ton range Interesting front mount crane (uses loader frame) and rear winch Ditch grinder/ cleaner Biofuel day with crackers and nippers and chippers and some nice bandtracks for rubber ducks Stunning skyline and processor combo