wills-mill

What a lovely bit of kit- as the description says 'has saved my back many a time'.... I think that we forget that the important part of the health and safety ethic is that you don't knacker every part of your body by repetitively heaving and shoving at weights and loads day after day after day after day. It'd be nice if we all got to the grave naturally and without to many chronic spine and joint issues

TENAX Tenax is very good stuff...... Don't know about suppliers in Cumbria tho' Talk to Tenax, I'm sure that they'll help..

Nice! Very much the same as the original Trekkasaw (bandsaw), a hydraulic motor on the head and hoses snaking off to an engine or PTO driven pump..... I think Autotreks are the same. Diesel chainsaw mills LOGLOGIC // Product Range // Autotrek Mobile Sawmill System

Most horse loggers would use a timber arch for bigger sticks of timber- you can get equivalents to go behind Quads, 4x4s and tractors, or use the arch 'remotely' on the end of a winch line or rope... I made one up a few years ago (it's a bit crude) but they work extremely well on pole length timber on relatively clean ground. LogRite<SUP>®</SUP> Tools logging tools These chaps do some superb arches.....

hydraulic press items - Get great deals on Vehicle Parts Accessories, Business, Office Industrial items on eBay UK! Am I missing the point or will a garage press or a fly press do the job- or even a bottle jack and a fabricated frame?

How much fuel does a day's flat out chainsaw milling use up...? We found that doing wide Oak boards with a 3/8ths chain on an MS660 was ending up as a tankfull per board. If you like the bar and chain on a static setup, why not look at making up a four stroke or electric version- Milling's such a 'torquey' job it's a shame to crouch all day over a red hot two stroke revving like the clappers and getting a faceful of hydrocarbons and a headful of noise..... I wonder what sprockets you can get, it would be lovely to make a mill with a low revving vertical shaft mower engine- a much cheaper power head than an 880. Fuel is a massive cost, we found it was a big saving moving from a petrol engined Wood Mizer to a diesel running on red, despite more or less twice the power and a much higher output of timber

If you can get over the border, it might be worth talking to Aly and Toby Herefordshire Cleft Chestnut Fencing They know their stuff when it comes to Sweet Chestnut

Wibbly boards on any bandmill are down to blades 80% of the time and blade guide alignment the rest of the time. I've eavesdropped on enough sales boyos selling twin post mills to have heard some truly hilarious reasons why the single post on Mizers is 'rubbish' I don't imagine that they've put much time in on their own or competitors machines to know whether 'the rails wear out really quickly' or 'the head drops and cuts wedge shaped boards all the time'. Wood Mizers are good bits of kit, very robust and have very good adjustment at any point that's prone getting bent or worn. One of the mundane day to day advantages of their layout is that offloading timber by hand is nice and ergonomic- you don't have to reach over a big chunky rail for every board. I sometimes miss our old LT mill with an Onan petrol engine, it was so much lighter and easier to nip up damp twisty tracks than the more recent hefty frames (but only sometimes). Of the smaller twin heads, I really rate the Lumbermate, and I also really like the team at Logosol, nothing is a problem and they all use their machines and have a bit of passion for the product. When it comes to a sale (and back up) I'd rather buy from someone who knows their kit and will acknowledge any flaws and limitations, rather than someone who slags off the competition...

You need a really gentle drying regime for burr, it's delicate and grumpy stuff If you get loads of cracking in Oak of any type, then you are rushing things. You can control your drying rate with shallower sticks than usual. Most people use 1/2in or 3/4in for 'normal' timber in a yard situation, you'll need to go down below 1/2in and keep the airflow over the timber down with a bit of sacking or screening to windward. As usual keep direct sunlight off. You can also slow the drying with a light coating of a finishing oil, you're not trying to seal it to death, just slow the exit of moisture. A lot of the old saywers I've spoken to also wouldn't even consider milling pure burr slabs at less than about 2 1/2in. Once the drying's got done, you can resaw- it just seems there's so much movement in thinner joinery boards that there's loads of wastage when it comes to planing. Weirdly, really thin stuff is really stable as you've found. Presumably it can dry quickly and lose the internal stresses before they crack and damage the timber...

There's some fantastic information on Woodweb.com if you need to get some very sound opinions on milling and drying, on a large and small scale. Search Results from WOODWEB's Site Search Engine From what I've read in the past, a lot of folk don't recommend using domestic or light industrial dehumidifiers for timber drying as the acids and tannins from the timber will corrode the internals of the machine. I've not had any experience of using them myself tho.... Don't send a home dehumidifier -- to do a commercial kiln's work

There's a public footpath through part of Staverton Thicks, which is much more tightly wooded than the parkland, but still great for veteran gnarlers if you want a quick mooch.

Hi John.... 'tis I, Mr Will with the Woodmizer. The container is a purpose built site container (not a shipping container) and has (had) a pair of flush fitting mortice deadlocks, which ended up being bent right round and then snapped off as the door was forced open. I can't quite work out how the door was forced, it's been pushed about and twisted, but it was all done manually with some sort of big chisel and lever. They then went through a Clarke steel site to get the saws. It barely put up a fight, very badly made It was done over Saturday night, they snipped the fencing and walked in and walked out to the roadside.

Container raided and my saws gone in West Sussex.... Stihls MS200t and MS660 Husqvarnas 357 and an almost new 576 Autotune. There can't be many of these around, so I'll dig the serial number out and get it posted up here. Sadly my big DeWalt chopsaw also went- a DW708. A fabulous bit of kit which has worked incredibly hard for me over the years I've had it.... W

Bought an ACE to replace a (stolen) lovely old 800kg lift Tirfor. It does the job really well, bit cheesy on the build quality but can't complain. Make sure you get a good load of spare shear pins (20??) - you can never be sure if the factory will move on and you don't want to bin a decent winch a couple of years down the line for a lack of pins.

Proper job! Arches are great bits of kit

Evening all. I've got a slightly odd job felling and moving a big Oak to roadside that then needs to be run up to Ellesmere Port in Cheshire for a boat building project. I know quite a few of the local guys who are hauliers around the South East, but was wondering if there's anyone running wagons up through the Midlands, Wales and the NW who needs a load to see them home- we see quite a few Shropshire based timber wagons down here but I don't know which firm(s) they are.... The Oak will be under 200 cu/ft in total, and is going to be 3 or 4 sections of about 16ft each. Collection can be any time in the first fortnight of Feb. Any ideas appreciated.....

I can't believe that I've never looked at this thread before :cool1:Epic!

Spookily enough I've just fitted a 500kg swinglift to the rear corner of an Ifor. I'll get some photos sorted out when I run through the yard in a couple of days....

It looks like I should have a go with a bit of an acid solution on one area and an alkaline solution on another...... Vinegar vs Ammonia I reckon

I think that deserves a separate thread

Maybe it's a bit like the old Trewhella clamps that can be used to shorten or lock off steel cable at a specific point- a bit like setting a prussik loop on a rope to give you an anchorage at a particular point.

I wonder if it's suffering from the same problem as older Transits- an air leak in the fuel return pipes allows diesel to drop away from the injectors. Have you got solid metal or flexible pipes running the excess diesel away from the injectors? Flexi pipe and clips can loosen and allow a little air into the system....

Has anyone got any tips when it comes to cleaning winter road grime and a bit of diesel belch from the front of Ifor trailers. At the moment my trailer (like most things) gets an occasional squirt of dilute traffic film remover and a good hose down, but is there something a bit cleverer that will bite through the muck and get the galvanised surface clean. Ta, W

That's about it really.... The message I got from NFU was that if a mobile mill was purely tractor towed or operated then they would be able to bring it in under a tractor policy, but if towable with a road going 4x4 they wouldn't touch it. Maybe that changes from office to office?

Wire and small nails will knock the set off a few Wood Mizer teeth and give you a stripy surface on the boards, as other people have said it's the tarmac, sand and flints that are bad news.