wills-mill

If anyone will find you one it will be David Darnell at Narrow Blade Bandsaw Services: Narrow Blade Bandsaw Services - Business Services Services & Opportunities Used Sawmilling Machinery - There's an LT20 there! Home He's a great bloke and a real enthusiast for mills and milling. Very good on sharpening a variety of bandsaw blades for all you sawyers out there

how about a 12v fan from a PC and a lead running to the ciggy lighter in the truck...... it all sounds like a mini version of Air Burners

Over half an inch of rain Thursday night, then hard miserable rain and no wind most of the day, so I've been fitting the office woodstove Winds now got up to nasty speeds...... I came past (swerved round) a huge nasty lump of deadwood on the way home, went back to move it it but other people had stopped and were on the case

Or get a really cheap basic phone with no glamour, but massive battery life and a keypad that suits stubby tree fingers RETROBRICK - the home of vintage and rare mobile phones RETROBRICK - the home of vintage and rare mobile phones\

It'll probably end up more like a Timberwolf vs Schliesing fight. As someone else mentioned, you can't go wrong with an old heavy welder, but they are overkill for occasional use. Machine Mart/ Clarke or SIP aren't a bad place to start. I've just sold my first welder on ebay, a SIP 140 stick welder built in the 70's that I paid 30 quid for from the classifieds in the paper about 8 years, sold again for £30 quid! Also keep your eyes open for Cebora, Miller or the old Oxford oil cooled welders (the Fordson Major of stick welders!)....

I remember a big girl up near the castle/prison at Lancaster from my college days..... and yes, Brighton is stunning for hardcore elm porn!

Green timber in the round is quite different to C16 which is based on actual strength grade test of samples. Technically you should get plenty of strength as none of the fibres have been severed, but engineers will also downgrade the timber as you may have unseen faults. Cherry also tends to crack and spiral quite badly along the grain. Try the architects and engineers that Steve used- Nye Saunders and Thomasons. They understand the issues of round timber and may be able to give you a quick yes or no at first Good luck!

10m unsupported is a biiiiiiiiig distance unsupported in timber..... regardless of species I think that's a no-no without several supporting posts. We did the milling for this building- Under the coppiced chestnut tree - Timber Building and the fairly round and even 300 down to 200mm sweet chestnut poles had to be sawn through the centre and bolted back together with a steel flitch plate through the middle to stiffen them. And that was for a roughly 7m span. You can see the steel in the photos at the bottom of this page IStructE - Structural Awards 2008 Engineer time I think......!

I don't think a kindlett would mind, but Thuja bark can come off in big stringy lumps and clog up debarking and mill machinery, especially if the trees are spring or summer felled. The knots you get tend to be pretty numerous but small. Nowhere near as chunky and brittle as pine knots.

Does HSE actually record non-industrial accidents Tree Work ? Tree work statistics Surely the entire point of the HSE is that they are concerned with Health and Safety at Work (ie the Health and Safety at Work Act) and not folk damaging themselves for fun in civilian life.... Is RoSPA a better body to find out about household chainsaw incidents? Home and Leisure Accident Statistics : RoSPA : HASS and LASS

Mine are tested and looked after by Technique Engineering, Billingshurst, West Sussex if anyone in the SE is looking for Tirfor/ Tractel/ Greifzug lovin' Nice bunch of guys, they don't seem to mind grubby tree types turning up with well worked old bits of kit......

maybe he means in terms of durability as an exterior timber It's certainly worse than White Oak from the US which is worse than English/ Euro Oak. I would imagine it's a bit like Turkey Oak, fast grown and a bit coarse, very heavy but suspect outside...... anyone else?

How about finding a luton or box body Merc and doing the conversion?

a very under-rated timber. Pop's great for truck floors for the same reason as it's a PITA to stump grind- the long woolly fibres make it unlikely to split and crack when you drop something on the truck, so the floor slowly fluffs up and wears away over time instead of chipping and breaking like harder timbers. 'Strength' is not always a good thing, it usually means a degree of brittleness as well. Being nice and light is a bonus, you can get a greater payload on a poplar floored truck. We've used it for quite a few things, you just have to think of it as a broadleaved version of hemlock or well behaved spruce..... extremely stable and quick drying with very little shrinkage. We've made some superb rafters, studwork and 16in to 22in wide weatherboarding for a cabin on a meadow that has been up for about 4 years with only an initial coat of brown shed treatment to keep it happy. I can't see any problems with it at the moment, but it's up off the ground on oak bearers and has a fairly decent overhang on the roof. If you look at some of the uses that tulip tree (Tulip Poplar) is put to in the States you will see how versatile pop is- absolutely great for carcassing boards for kitchen units and staircases as a start....

The peasants are sharpening their pitchforks and lighting the torches.....

A lek is what capercaillie (spelling?) and other highland grouse carry out--> a mass meeting of the males at rutting season to establish a hierarchy for servicing the ladies. perhaps your flies do it over Wild Service

How about a capstan winch run from the hydraulics?- it could be as simple as a hydraulic motor with a small bollard attached. You can pull in any distance of rope and from any angle and not mess about spooling cables in and out... Not so good for recovering the chipper I suppose

Impressive, but after watching that I think I need a sit down with a cuppa and half a pork pie to recover

I found Adrian Flux really cheap for a Transit fitted with a small Hiab (most firms moaned that it's a modified truck). Flux gave me a policy for 'any driver over 25' that was £150 less than anyone else would cover me by myself

I think Doug Fir is extremely attractive in a woodland, if you were to place your sights a bit higher than chip and aim for a good quality sawlog you will have a wood you can be proud of in the future Perhaps improving the access as a priority would make things easier and more pleasant for yourself and future generations....

I think PEN 15 belonged to Steve Parrish, who raced with Barry Sheene and now does the World Superbike commentary for the BBC...

Not arb plates but round our way are 2 (new) Minis.... One's called THE 60S and the other P155 WEE Then there's quite a big groundcare firm called Burleys and it seems all their vehicles have got a STR 1M or G9 BUR oir similar...

Mill your own if you can, definitely.... 50p a cu/ft roadside sounds optimistically cheap for sensible timber. I'd expect to pay from £2 upwards if access and felling is going to be reasonable, so by the time you've felled and extracted it's closer to £3-5. With Oak weighing in at about 28cu/ft per tonne, that would mean your 50p sawlogs are costing £14 per tonne, which is cordwood money There's a fair bit of wastage by the time you've milled the sapwood away, and the smaller the oak is, the greater percentage you'll be losing. I'd reckon to get between 60 and 80 sawn cubic ft from 100 hoppus cubic ft measured, depending on size and wobbliness of the butts.... Milling costs I'd think should work out at between £2 and £5 per cube produced, but obviously the costs are more or less the same if you are producing dreadful rubbish or prime timber! All in all by the time you've priced everything up, there's a very sensible saving to be made over bought-in fresh sawn timber. I would say that round here (South East) Oak tends to be priced at between £18 and £22 per sawn cube depending on lengths sizes and quality, and nice air dried I have seen at anything from £35 to £65.

I have And so have the people that sharpen my blades

I had a fairly new 357 that wouldn't idle and would die when it warmed up. It sat in the naughty box for a year or so.... Sorted out 2 issues- Husky dealers will throw the auto decomp away and fit a blanking plug for pence, so you can eliminate that problem easily. I had an new old pattern carb (262 spec) fitted and the saw is now fantastic. Like quite a few new 020's the 357 has a rubbish carb... replacement is your best bet. (as long the piston isn't knackered)