Kev Stephenson

I like that one

Can you post a link to that specific info please

It's got (or at least it had) a set of strobes at the top corners of the tipper bed for the rear view. Looks well Ben, transits still going well but so slow.

If you do decide to reclassify you could be required to provide an engineers report to prove the modification is up to standard. When I did my 130 I used the existing bed but raised it by 2" to fit the tipping chassis. I spoke to someone at the DVLA and since nothing had changed with regards to position of lights, change in body shape/panels used, number of seats and the unladened weight change was minimal (approx 50kg) they weren't bothered

Position filled, thanks everyone

Nice easy day for someone poplar bashing. One fallen stem to ring up, remaining stem to fell. Nothing coming off site. Guaranteed early finish as I have got the school run to do!! Drop me a PM or reply via here

Any pics of the landie post rebuild?

Corrected your quote

I've had both hiflex and the steins. Hiflex are cooler but thigh pockets ripped off, material tears easily and soon looks scruffy, velcro pockets soon stop sealing, crotch holed quickly Steins are a bit too warm (like most type c's) but fit very nicely (very similar to the hiflex), extra material in the ankles is good, they are wearing very well and look tidy. The kevlar would be better on both sides.

Armchair arborist runs his splitter off his TW190 hydraulics. Conversion done by Treequip as far as I know.

Pinched form elsewhere Whilst the exact specification will differ slightly from model to model, each vehicle will likely have the following accessories: WARN winch Goodyear MT/R Wrangle off-road tyres Front/rear lamp guards Front/rear under shield protection plates Rear towing step and tow kit Internal dog guard protection Full length Roof Rack and Ladder Raised Air intake breather

Thats fine but in my opinion you should only take on that job knowing you can pay all the expenses and wages without the need for the fee for the job first. Are you going to retain 15% of the subbies fee if he was the one that applied the chemicals? People run their business how they choose is wrong. They should adhere to rules one of those being do not run insolvent.

I finrmly beleive you should learn to walk before you run. Start small and build up a slush fund then take on bigger jobs. There seem to be too many brand new companies that are getting a grant or truck, chipper, etc on the tick knowing they need to turn over loads of money each week just to pay for the finance. One bad payer for one of these companies and the do do hits the fan, if they have used a subbie are they going to pay the subbie or the finance company first? What happened to the second hand saw and trimmers and carting away on a trailer to build up funds for a truck then eventually a chipper, etc

I personally wouldn't take on a job that risked bankrupting me, I believe you should always have the funds available to pay out all you owe, especially to staff. This might mean that I will never be the biggest arb company in the world but I definately won't be a bust one and I will never be in debt to anyone. If you are using the same person for a couple of weeks straight and you agree in advance that payment will be on completion then it should be, if a job is bigger than this why not ask the customer for staged payments to cover staff wages? Builders do, why can't arbs? Companies biting off more than they can chew is the reason so many go bust, I am sure all companies have had the odd bad/non payer but that is lost from profit, not wages or expenses

If it was my money now it would be a 200

The retailer will want to double your price (or near enough), can you really see then selling for £14 a bag. As you said earlier you have seen them at £8 a bag, that's expensive but even then the retailer is only going to want to give you £4. Selling through a retailer is the easy way out, they are doing all the selling work, advertising, dealing with customers etc. If you want to make good money then sell them direct to customers and take all the profits instead of splitting it with your retailer

The diagrams I have got are for the current range (ish) and were supplied by timberwolf but nothing has really changed. The diagrams will give you the basic idea it is then a case of interpreting them to how your machine was orignally wired as the timberwolf tech support guy said some are wired with reverse on A/S and some will run in reverse at low revs. The system is dead simple, give me a ring tomorrow if you want me to talk you through it. Also drop me an email on [email protected] and I will send you what I have got. I'm in the workshop most of tomorrow. Kev 07867784521

tenner each

I can get them for a price down in Huddersfield

It's been bypassed. If you want to bring it over we can sit the two side by side and go through the electronics. I also have a full working replacement A/S grey box which could be for sale if yours is at fault. Alternatively if you are good at reading wiring diagrams and have a good few hours to spare I might be able to find the diagrams I have. I spent hours on mine and a lot of (unnecessary) money before I found a damaged plug. When disconnected to 'bell' it out against the diagram the connection was good, when plugged back in there was a connection break. It was also intermittent depending on what bumps I had driven over. Let me know if you want to meet up

Alternatively you are probably less than an hour from me drag it over and i will have a look for you FOC.

I assume the A/S isn't working, as in the rollers run but the machine trys to stall when chipping big lumps instead of pulsing the feed. If that is the case then you need to check that the previous owner hasn't just fitted a bypass to the A/S unit. The following assumes it is the same as my 1999 CH25PH chipper. i.e. a grey box mounted next to the fly wheel with the pick up sensor poking out of it. The later set up is a small back box mounted remotely with a sensor on a cable The earth connection for the forward relay (and associated latch relay) and the reverse relay run through the A/S unit. The system isn't live switched it is earth switched which makes chasing 12v for fault detection interesting. For the rollers to run either the A/S unit has been bypassed - (short out wires B and C (switch wire and earth) on the three pin connector to the A/S unit) or the engine is running fast enough for the pick up sensor to switch the A/S unit to run. If it isn't bypassed then it is possible the point where the rollers stop has been wound down too far. Do the rollers run at idle? The rollers won't run at all if the A/S unit is knackered unless it has been bypassed, it is a fail safe unit. Let me know more about the syptums, I spent a long time earlier this year fault finding on mine and replacing loads of bits so know it in side out. I've also got a full system A/S as spares.

He'll eat you under the table in a ginsters consuming contest though:lol:

I had a 1993 jeep cherokee about 8 years ago - absolute pile of poo on the road that drank like a fish but it was good off road with decent tyres on. Bomb proof engine but the diffs were known to be delicate

I pick the 200 up given the choice although both are now fitted with the new full chisel chain. If I was in the market at the minute it would be a 200