Peter
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Everything posted by Peter
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You could bypass the slotted pipe under the block paving by moling a new drain and connecting into the slotted pipe at end of the garage.
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That's interesting, I wonder how long it will be permeable for? Only takes a small amount of fines to filter through to block it up. Sounds like a nightmare to lay too.
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It is possible to clear and sleeve an existing drain without digging it all up. However, I don't think you'll be able to push a new stiff pipe into a perforated land drain. The slotted pipe never sits perfectly straight in the ground, and the corrugations would make it difficult to push a stiff pipe inside with a lot of lubrication.
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Sand isn't all sand. If you took a sample of sharp sand from a builders merchant, and tested it like a soil sample, you would get fractions of gravel, sand, silt and clay. A surprising amount of clay too, which allows it to self bind under compaction.
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What do they put under "permeable" block paving? Any compacted layer of sand or mot type limestone isn't going to let any water through. Drives don't have to permeable, they have to have some way of dealing with surface run off without discharging onto the street or into the sewers.
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Block paving is not water permeable. Surface water needs to be moved to a collection point and drained through a grid. As Ian says, the pipework under the paving should be solid, it's possible that fine sand from the block paving sun base has got into the drain. More likely they've blocked from the discharge end imo. The solid pipe should also have rodding points at every change of direction.
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Take the bulb out? Mine doesn't have a light, so I can't really help with that. If the diff lock is working properly it will be almost impossible to turn the vehicle.
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Are we still talking about stoves?!
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Well, I've just checked mine, it's been in a year now and it's exactly the same size as it was when I fitted it. I'll check again next year.
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I over load everything Pete, it's known as arborist syndrome.
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If your trailers will take 24v it would be easier to wire it off the light cluster. That's what I did when I fitted my tow bar initially. Then I took it to the iveco main dealer to get the dropper fitted, which took them 2 weeks and cost a flipping fortune. It works perfectly with filament bulbs, just not with leds.
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Yes this is completely normal. I have a 24/12v converter on mine, but it doesn't work with led lights, just lights the whole trailer up like a Christmas tree.
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It's was your tool trolley that gave me the idea actually! I had those yellow tyres on a sack truck, they gave up to but I'm very hard on sack trucks.
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Huh? The new pneumatic wheels bolt straight on.
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Welder castors haven't coped too well with being dragged round the yard, so I'm going for the all terrain upgrade.
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Those numbers are about right, you were talking about a 2 man crew though.
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If your team is working 4-5 days a week they will need to bring in £1100 a day to achieve the turnover you're looking for. If that's what you're doing then fair play, if not then I think you need to redo your sums.
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Same rules apply, you're using the energy contained in the coal to boil off the water. Saying that an open fire is already an extremely inefficient method of heating the sky, so you're probably not bothered about wasting heat.
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Never burn logs green. What green really means is full of water, so much of the calorific value of the wood is used up boiling off the water. This reduces the heat output of the fire, reduces the temp of your flue gases, and if you have a modern clean burn wood burner, means the secondary gas burn won't work properly. It will also tar up the chimney very quickly, and possibly damage your chimney or flue liner. In short, get your wood as dry as possible before you burn it.
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There is a new contender coming out before Christmas I believe. Seen a prototype and it looks good.
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What I'm really asking is, if you turned up at the tyre fitters with a scrap tyre, would they take it for a pound even if you didn't have the replacement fitted there? If not it isn't comparing like with like. Even if they only pay a pound to dispose (unlikely imo) the other profit making activities of the company subsidise the tyre disposal. This is why comparing a for profit firm with a publicly funded facility doesn't make sense.
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How much does the private firm pay to have the tyres disposed of? LAs rarely manage to compete well with private firms, that's why I think they should stick to doing what they do well, using taxpayers money to collect the bins and maintain the street lighting. While we may whinge about the service sometimes, the vast majority of LAs actually do a pretty good job the majority of the time.
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Yup, it's all the dole scrounges fault, the daily mail said so. If you squeeze the budgets for long enough, something has to give, and there is a limited amount of services that they can charge for. Personally I'd rather they were funded properly and people didn't have to pay at point of use. I almost never use them myself, usually easier to get a skip. Probably cheaper now too.
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Put it into launch mode in those scenarios. Apply the foot brake with your left foot, rev it up to about 2500 and release the foot brake to launch.
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Sure, if it's perfect 3.9m oak sawlogs. Bendy knobbly oversize horse chestnut and willow though demand some actually money.
