Peter
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Everything posted by Peter
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Dont be silly, its an automatic!
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I cant imagine thats a particularly high risk tree, theres not far for it to fall for one thing, and for another anyone looking at that is going to steer well clear as its clearly knackered. Except for arbs though, we all get up close for a better look!
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Thats very cool. I hope it gets left as is.
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If you or someone you know can stick a new piston in it, it might be worth doing. The parts will cost around £80 from memory. If thats all it needs it could be worth doing, if its really knackered it will just end up costing you more than new one.
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Phytophthora ramorum found in New Forest
Peter replied to David Humphries's topic in Tree health care
Cue a DEFRA slash and burn then. Should be a nice little job for someone. -
That is precisely what I am getting at. If I sell you a bag of logs for £5, does it make it any better than the identical bag of logs that you can go out into the yard and split yourself? Some people seem to think that expensive equals good. I'm sure Nene do excellent work, but they would not be my first port of call for a standard tipper body. Its a bit like going to a posh restuarant and ordering fish and chips.
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Ah right, with you now. So you think Nene are overpriced too then?
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Are you saying if you pay joke prices you get a joke product then? I thought the Nene products look pretty good myself.
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Very true, your accountant will be very helpful up until the moment when HMRC get you properly in their sights.
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Harnesses come with a manufactorer recommended maximum lifespan. This can vary from model to model. 5 years is typical, however the Skylotec Kolibri for instance has a much longer limit, I think 9 years. Regardless that however, the most important aspect of the loler inspection is the physical condition of the equipment being inspected. A rope stored properly and only used occasionally could still be in perfectly good condition after three years. A rope kept in a wet diesel soaked bag and only used occasionally may be condemned after 3 months. The best looked after rope in the world could be condemned after one day if a strand or two is severed. Putting artificial time spans on equipment is useless on its own, although knowing the date of first use is useful in determining how worn a piece of kit is, especially if it has been looked after well and shows little external signs of use.
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You are.
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No, your thinking of the Australian yew. The Irish yew is the one that grows toward the pub.
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I wouldnt bother with the 660 if you want to run a 36 all the time, just get the 880.
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What rope are you wanting to splice? The traditional braided arb ropes like Yale XTC, New England Hi-Vee, ect are 12 strand. Braided lowering ropes and the thinner modern climbing lines like yale blaze, samson velocity, ect are double braids. They have a totally different splice to the 12 strand ropes. Some of the double braids have 24 strands in the cover, so they could be called 24 strand double braids, which makes it slightly confusing. If in doubt, refer to the manufactorers instructions. If your not sure what the rope is, pull a bit of the core out, and there should be a narrow white plastic tape inside with the details of the rope printed on it.
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[ame=http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=kgr3o-4UbEw]http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=kgr3o-4UbEw[/ame]
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Sunday market in Cambridge.
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Friction/cambium savers prevent damage to the tree, and reduce wear on the rope. There are always ways of introducing more friction into the system. I take the point about body thrusting with a long hitch, such as a blakes. Changing to a short hitch and modifying the body thrust technique accordingly will make ascending on a reduced friction system easier. All the effort you put into overcoming the friction in your anchor point is wasted. I would rather use that effort productively, in getting more work done for less energy used. If footlocking isnt your bag, why not look into an SRT ascent system? F/L isnt hard if you overcome the initial learning curve and get good at it anyway.
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Thats where footlocking or SRT comes into its own, as the rope doesnt move on the anchor during the inital ascent, so there is no issue with friction. Once your in a simple 2 ring friction saver will reduce friction on your anchor point, I wouldnt rush out and buy a Ropeguide.
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There is no requirement to demonstrate footlocking as part of the CS38 assessment.
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I know some excellent climbers who cant footlock to save their lives and only use a throwline as a last resort. They can get around a big tree just fine using only the basics, hats off to them. I cant help thinking that if they acquired a few extra skills it would make life a lot easier though!
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Just buy a pair of pruning gaffs and all your worries will be no more.
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Send Mr Ed a pm. He had them built by a guy in the midlands. Two bodies for 130 crew cabs, they look smart too, having seen them in the metal.
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Jason, have you tried the Boreal Big Wall boots? I have a pair I imported from the USA and resoled with sticky dot rubber. I used them for one comp and then picked up a pair of pro ascent cheap, so I'v not really used them much.
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Irish cheddar with Guinness already in it! What will they think of next?!
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Ouch, thats looks expensive!
