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Posted

thats not anything new its been around for donkeys years, its an old tecnique thats been re invented, that was a round when mi father started in 1946, its porpuse was for dropping big limbs so they would drop flat to the ground without kicking, usaly on big hard woods to maximise the timber recovery as appossed to the stait fell shattering most off the cord/chockwood

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Posted
thats not anything new its been around for donkeys years, its an old tecnique thats been re invented, that was a round when mi father started in 1946, its porpuse was for dropping big limbs so they would drop flat to the ground without kicking, usaly on big hard woods to maximise the timber recovery as appossed to the stait fell shattering most off the cord/chockwood

 

Thats the point this is not a new technique, its just a revision on the idea that an outboard should be used when removing side branches, experienced treeworkers have been doing it this way for years its a safer way of doing it and still achieves the same result.

Posted

Outboard cuts seem to work fine on smaller branches but as the size increases so does the chance it just rips the saw out of your hands..... I always usually go in board or the box cut.

 

 

 

:sneaky2:

Posted

I'm working on a cut that will make the branch actually jump upwards to clear BT lines, aerials etc.

 

When I've sorted it you will see me selling it on Dragons Den....

Posted
I'm working on a cut that will make the branch actually jump upwards to clear BT lines, aerials etc.

 

When I've sorted it you will see me selling it on Dragons Den....

 

sorry mate,Ive already patented it.:001_tt2:

Posted

Just do an inboard cut....if its a big lump. I always undo my toolstrop. If in looks a bit nasty, or I'm using a big old saw, I put it on a separate tool line.

Posted
Just do an inboard cut....if its a big lump. I always undo my toolstrop. If in looks a bit nasty, or I'm using a big old saw, I put it on a separate tool line.

 

The problem with that is it will not fall flat, the step will hold the butt end a bit which makes the limb swing in a little, which means it can end up damaging the trunk (if the tree is being retained) or foul your rope.

Posted

I've seen that happen to a climber I've worked for once, the tug it gives you must be a bit unpleasant to say the least. Ever since then I've always done the top cut still outboard for that nice flat fall (when necessary of course), but also cut very quickly and the saw removed from the cut before the branch even cracks. It's a bit of a foolhardy thing to do considering less dense timbers will cut slower and going through your rope etc, so recently I've settled for that revised type of cut.

Posted
I'm working on a cut that will make the branch actually jump upwards to clear BT lines, aerials etc.

 

When I've sorted it you will see me selling it on Dragons Den....

 

Slash cut:confused1:

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