Jump to content

Log in or register to remove this advert

NEW Revised branch removal technique - Posted by Sherrill's website


hesslemount
 Share

Recommended Posts

thats not anything new its been around for donkeys years, its an old tecnique thats been re invented, that was a round when mi father started in 1946, its porpuse was for dropping big limbs so they would drop flat to the ground without kicking, usaly on big hard woods to maximise the timber recovery as appossed to the stait fell shattering most off the cord/chockwood

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Log in or register to remove this advert

  • Replies 22
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

thats not anything new its been around for donkeys years, its an old tecnique thats been re invented, that was a round when mi father started in 1946, its porpuse was for dropping big limbs so they would drop flat to the ground without kicking, usaly on big hard woods to maximise the timber recovery as appossed to the stait fell shattering most off the cord/chockwood

 

Thats the point this is not a new technique, its just a revision on the idea that an outboard should be used when removing side branches, experienced treeworkers have been doing it this way for years its a safer way of doing it and still achieves the same result.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just do an inboard cut....if its a big lump. I always undo my toolstrop. If in looks a bit nasty, or I'm using a big old saw, I put it on a separate tool line.

 

The problem with that is it will not fall flat, the step will hold the butt end a bit which makes the limb swing in a little, which means it can end up damaging the trunk (if the tree is being retained) or foul your rope.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've seen that happen to a climber I've worked for once, the tug it gives you must be a bit unpleasant to say the least. Ever since then I've always done the top cut still outboard for that nice flat fall (when necessary of course), but also cut very quickly and the saw removed from the cut before the branch even cracks. It's a bit of a foolhardy thing to do considering less dense timbers will cut slower and going through your rope etc, so recently I've settled for that revised type of cut.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share


  •  

  • Featured Adverts

About

Arbtalk.co.uk is a hub for the arboriculture industry in the UK.  
If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place.  If you've done it, made it, got a van load of oily t-shirts and have decided to give something back by sharing your knowledge or wisdom,  then you're welcome too.
If you would like to contribute to making this industry more effective and safe then welcome.
Just like a living tree, it'll always be a work in progress.
Please have a look around, sign up, share and contribute the best you have.

See you inside.

The Arbtalk Team

Follow us

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.