Advice re taking a 15ft hedge down to 10ft

[Doug Tait]

A lot depends what type of hedge, but on the whole I prefer reducing a big hedge to annual trimming. Method of choice if possible, is to walk along the middle cutting at waist height, 'felling' stuff over the side.

Steer clear of ladders if I can, leaning to cut and then dragging the cuttings off from them is much harder work.

[Mesterh]

Plenty of good advice on here. If you haven't done something like this before I suggest that if you get the job, at the very start get your level and get the customer to agree that it's correct. Because, no one has ever, in the history of hedge topping, got to the end of the job only for the customer turn around and say that it needs another 6 inches taking off!

[Will C]

Another vote for good silky or small top handle in the hedge but a set of tripod ladders will be a good investment. 
 

The other thing to remember is no matter how much brash you think there will be the WILL be far more! 

[sime42]

Most has already been said but here's a few more thoughts.

Its definitely not going to be a hedge trimmer job. Even if the 5ft that you're taking off is all new growth, i.e. it was reduced to 10ft a year or two ago, you're still talking about cutting at least 1inch diameter stuff, too much for most hedge trimmers. At best it'll be Silky work, but more likely a top handle chainsaw as well. 

 

I really wouldn't bother with the Henchman ladder, unless you do a lot of hedge work, can already afford it and were going to buy it anyway. They're quality tools but a lot of money just for one job. Climbing inside the hedge for a reduction like this, with harness and lanyards, will be much easier. Tripod ladders are good for hedge trimming high hedges, but don't really help with wide hedges or hedge reductions.

 

The species of tree makes a big difference. I'm guessing it'll be one of two from what you've said so far. Personally I'd rather it was a laurel hedge rather than crappy Leylandii. The latter will be dusty, spiky, awkward to get a decent work position most of the time and will take years, if ever to form a decent top surface . The former will be more benign and will heal up much quicker but will be slightly harder to get a good finished top line on the day.

 

The waste will be a major component of this job. If you have a chipper or access to one you'll need it. If not you'll spend most of the time getting rid of the copious arisings.

 

 

 

 

[peds]

10 hours ago, sime42 said:

 

The waste will be a major component of this job. If you have a chipper or access to one you'll need it. If not you'll spend most of the time getting rid of the copious arisings.

Just poke it down inside the hedge for the next poor sod to find 👀

[Sviatoslav Tulin]

I would never risk any reduction, before looking at it, usually 5 foot growth reduction is not suited for hege cutter only, in combo with the saw , 50 % of my work is hedges, investment in the good ladder, always worth. Also 15 foot not always claimable, too dense, too young,brambles and so on. Lots of waste as well, mess after previous works possible. 

Edited August 30, 2022 by Sviatoslav Tulin

[doobin]

I love my loader mancrates for jobs like this. Coupled with a mini chipper it makes them very profitable. 

[Puffingbilly413]

15 hours ago, Mark Bolam said:

Price high and hope someone else gets it is the way forward.

Most definitely. Just did that the other day and annoyingly still got the work. Should have gone higher.

[Con]

20 hours ago, Steve Bullman said:

Make sure you stick your head inside the hedge and have a proper look. A picture from the outside rarely tells the whole story. Also don't get caught out on the width of the hedge.

This one seems harmless until you get the side on view

[Steve Bullman]

45 minutes ago, Con said:

This one seems harmless until you get the side on view

So glad i'll never have to do one of those again.