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About Puffingbilly413

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  1. Jules, Many thanks for the response - that's useful info. If it were a case of these packages not costing that much then a few niggles would be ok. but at the prices they're asking you would hope things would be more straightforward. I don't have previous autocad experience as you do, so I guess I'd be getting pretty frustrated pretty quickly. I'll have a look at QCAD - not seen that one before. Cheers, Ed.
  2. Jules, An old post I realise, but are you still getting on ok with PT mapper (assume you have the pro?) and do you pay the extra for the support element they offer? I like the look of their packages but have yet to try them other than in their free trial version. It's for 5837 work mainly I would be interested in it for (albeit not exclusively). Cheers, Ed.
  3. I've used this site before for my 372 and 268. Seems to have most saws. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/835150/Husqvarna-362xp.html
  4. Interesting to see that the Proceeds of Crime Act was used as his house had gone up in value apparently as a result of the increased light.
  5. I've shared it on Facebook, Mark. Unlikely it will head up Fife way but you never know, someone might see it and have some info. I've quite a few muckers in Kent. Hope you get it back. Bastards.
  6. Mytting was on about burning large quantities of pine re having to sweep the flues more often. I guess this would be true for any wood with a very high resin content. But in reality, apart from the colder parts of the UK perhaps, I don't reckon on people needing to sweeop their chimneys more than once a year. Maybe twice if you burn a huge amount (of any wood). But people will see what comes out of the flue when it's swept and be able to gauge what is often enough for their burning habits.
  7. Aye but not all the book is about the wood - stoves, saws, stacking etc take up a huge part too. The book loves birch (as do I, it's burning in my stove right now) but also discusses softwood as a fuel source (as kindling, 'kitchen wood' and also as a main fuel). Indeed the dude who builds the big arty ring piles does so ordinarily out of pine or spruce, because that's what he can get (he's in Norway). I suppose all I'm saying is that there is nothing wrong with burning softwood. It works, and in certain circumstances can even be advantageous. But you'll have to load the stove more often and split more wood.
  8. True - drying mostly just covers 'wood' as there is no difference in the process is there. Pine and spruce drying is referred to, albeit briefly, on p47. He also mentions combining softwoods with hardwoods in the fire to help prolong burn times on p48. People's enjoyment of theg crackle of conifer woods in their stoves is covered on p49. He even cites an example of pine being used as a main heating source on p50. On p56 he states it is better 'to have a mixed stack of hardwoods and softwoods that can be used according to the outside temperature' ie softwoods can be burned more intensely without making a building overly hot. You said 'nothing' whereas actually there is some info there.
  9. Andy - I was really just pointing out that your comment ' I’ve been through the book extensively, there is simply nothing there promoting the burning or drying of softwood' doesn't wash. There are many references to the drying of wood in general and to the burning of softwood in particular. Pine, of course, is just one example of softwood - Mytting also covers spruce.
  10. Yep. P60 - Mentions it as kindling, smaller wood to keep kitchen stoves burning more controllably and as a source of cheaper firewood due to the demand for birch pushing its prices up. P61 - refers to small pines making good firewood. There's also discussion of older softwood examples having higher densities and making for a good source of firewood. All of these discussions cover the need for softwood to be well dried. So pretty much as Mark B said really.
  11. True enough. What I was driving at was that there's little point (in my view) of expending energy on kiln drying logs if they are not going to be stored in conditions that will keep them at that level of moisture content. Unless these conditions can be provided by the end user (or the internediate seller) then the only person that benefits is the original supplier in that they can turn around wood quickly without necessarily needing to hold larger stocks on site to meet demand. Also - and I know a moisture meter is not mega-accurate but my air dried logs here in rainy Fife are showing around 10% some of them currently. Dried and stored outside but generally speaking open to the wind but no so much the rain. But I can leave them there to dry for as long as I need (I think 2 years for what I'm burning at home now), which is not a luxury all have I suppose.
  12. Yep - was in Lidl (or possibly Aldi - can't remember as we've got both) today and noticed their bags of kiln dried logs in the entrance way. In plastic bags and loads of condensation on the inside. No way they are going to be 'kiln' dry. Plus they work out about £450 a tonne if you add it up...
    Dropped a 2.5 tonne trailer load of beech chip - no issues and no waiting around. Straight in and out. Need to arrange in advance of course but not a problem. Thanks.
  13. Definitely interested - have sent you a PM. Cheers.


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