Today's Posts

That

Not sure if its helpful but I read a book by Robert Hardy that iirc, it was 30 years ago admittedly, that covered the process of making one. I would have given a link but its late and just in from the rubba-dub-dub.

Usually just to the side of the boom, it’s just a wee valve lever. The Yanmar are under the dead man lever on the floor under a plastic blank though just to be awkward. Dan I pinky promise I never got out the cab for slab stacking and the broken 1 was already broken.

Wordle 1,412 3/6 🟩⬜🟨⬜⬜ 🟩🟩⬜🟩🟩 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩

I ride a 125 cc bike and the BACK of my helmet is like that !!!😁

Looks like they are bang or is it banged to rights. What a pair of proper coonts.

I just called him off a deer when he was already twenty yards committed. Buy a lottery ticket!

Agrigear in cavan will do both. All the tym machines coming into Ireland (fairly similar to kioti) are being shipped from korea without wheels or tyres now. Agrigear are fabbing the wheels in house and fitting them with tyres. It's working out cheaper to do this and get 2 more machines in a container than to ship less units with tyres included.

Tasty. I'd sure like to try that one as well, sounds like a Proper Job.

Thanks all for the replies. My thoughts on a couple of points that have been well made; - theft or damage. Is this a significantly higher risk in the arb industry? outside of the arb industry I know it is a problem, but I suppose it must be manageable. The fact that there are profitable hire companies shows that. I know arb work is hard work for both people and machines, so I would expect and accept a certain amount of wear and tear and cosmetic damage, but there must be insurance and security measures available to mitigate the risks well enough - maintenance and repairs. As above with theft damage; it must be manageable? I am reasonably mechanically minded and can learn fairly quickly. My first job out of school was a tractor mechanic / fitter, and I have been a been a farmhand, bicycle mechanic, I do a lot of my own car maintenance and my current day job is an engineer in the automotive industry, so I have a reasonably good understanding of mechanical and hydraulic systems, so I'd be reasonably confident to do basic repairs and maintenance stuff myself, and I guess I would rely on either the supplying dealer or approved repairers for difficult stuff. Any machine I bought would be a known and well supported make, I would avoid any of the chinese stuff that is admittedly temptingly cheap. - breaking into a saturated market, competing with existing companies. Alongside a lack of demand, this is my biggest worry. Thank you NJA for identifying a couple of companies nearby who do similar. I had a look at their websites and it looks like they have a variety of excavators and various arb attachments, but neither offered a tracked mini skid steer. So while it's a bit niche, it might be something that would be in demand? Certainly when I was working as a groundsman our mini skid was much more versatile and useful for most things than the mini excavators that we also had on a couple of jobs. I am hoping that building a good relationship is where I would be able to do OK. I would be a sole trader operation with quite a narrow focus, so I would hope that my overheads would be lower and that I could be cheaper and offer decent flexibility than the bigger players. I am also very fortunate in that I have a wife who earns enough, as well as having my office job to fall back on if it all goes pete tong, so I could afford to start small and build slowly. I wouldn't need it to immediately pay off; to begin with I would set merely being cost neutral as a target, then if/when I achieve that I could aim for profitability (or if it's a total failure I could pack it in and know that at least I tried). As I touched on in my opening post my current job is making me pretty unhappy in general and despite being an engineer, I very very rarely get to do anything other than sit and stare at a monitor. I like working outdoors and doing something real, so if I could make some money by trundling around the countryside with a machine in tow, or occasionally doing basic work on the tools again, that would be great.

I heard she can be a bit prickly in bed!

Morning All.

Need to clear out stock that we won't be re stocking - we now have unguarded .325 .043[1.1mm] chains and no longer want to have the guarded version (which Oregon and Husky do). So buy 1 chain and get 2 free - while stocks last. ONLINE ONLY - if you can't get it to work whatsapp on 07752145001. You need to have at least x3 chains in the basket. Yes you can mix and match sizes. No we are not doing this deal on any other chains right now. Use code 325 in the basket - if you have x3 chains of this type in the basket it will remove 66% of the price (thus giving by 2 get 1 free). 10"[25cm] Panther .325 .043[1.1mm] 46 drive links WWW.CHAINSAWBARS.CO.UK P-325-043-G-46 Panther Nano .325 .043[1.1mm] which tends to go on the newer smaller Husqvarna chainsaws as standard... 12"[30cm] Panther .325 .043[1.1mm] 51 drive links WWW.CHAINSAWBARS.CO.UK P-325-043-G-51 Panther .325 .043[1.1mm] which tends to go on the newer smaller Husqvarna chainsaws as standard type set... 14"[35cm] Panther .325 .043[1.1mm] 59 drive links WWW.CHAINSAWBARS.CO.UK P-325-043-G-59 Panther .325 .043[1.1mm] which tends to go on the newer smaller Husqvarna chainsaws as standard type set... 16"[40cm] Panther .325 .043[1.1mm] 64 drive links WWW.CHAINSAWBARS.CO.UK P-325-043-G-64 Panther .325 .043[1.1mm] which tends to go on the newer smaller Husqvarna chainsaws as standard type set...

Yeah, that one cost me nothing, I had all the bits and pieces lying around at home anyway. They need to be facing the sun most of the time, so S or SE facing is preferred apparently. There's plenty of info kicking around online but I saw this nice little guide recently. (I've never bothered with any of the overwintering stuff, just leave them out all the time and they seem to be okay). 183119-Pamphlet-bee-house.pdf

Thanks all. Lots of fantastic advice. Appreciate your time. UF

Thank you WNH and WF. Useful info to know. Cheers, Marcus

Yes I saw that when I installed it . The updates are automatic I think , no need to click anything .

I appear to have lost all my small climbing wedges. Have a to be a little careful if using the small ones on the ground, a boot used as a hammer tends to split them. Made up four more tonight, but they do fit well in the pocket, dont notice them while climbing. For a bigger wedge, the range do these, also disposably priced, for the careless arborist. https://www.therange.co.uk/diy/hardware-and-accessories/floor-protection/wood-door-stop#58454 Have not used my large plastic set for ages.

Anyone? Local council tree planning appear to be useless.

Live in Edinburgh, Scotland - as opposed to all the other Edinburgh's it would be if you lived there.

12 foot here too, I've got Brian James though. Based on what people who have ifors tell me the ramps are easier and lighter on mine, and it tows quieter, so I'd definitely suggest looking at both. I tow mine with a 110 hardtop, so I've got the long door mirror stalks fitted to see round it, and then the extra trailer width is not really an issue. Keep thinking about a remap, especially when the trailers full. Always get there though, just need to be patient.

‘Overhanging and loss of light’ is pretty simple. No one is responsible because if the tree is worthy of a TPO neither would be given any consideration, so permission to prune wouldn’t be granted anyway. Structural damage isn’t as simple. Proving the tree was responsible would be the first hurdle. @daltontrees?

All wood is felled and straight. it is all millable ranging oak to ash mostly few big straight bits of yew aswell.Also we have 4 metre lengths of cherry most of it is easily accessible from a gravel track