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Might be ,good call

I'm not sure it'll ever be empty. The load bed capacity is 350kg. My dog, an IBC flask and a tool kit will weigh a good fifth of that. I wonder if the rear engine goes straight to the diff. It'd be unsprung mass!

Wordle 1,711 3/6 ⬜🟩⬜⬜⬜ ⬜🟩⬜⬜🟨 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩

Rear engine gives more traction when empty. Seen a few of these at farm shows, seem to be slightly jacked up with wider, knobbly tyres

The pool of potential females for these guys round my way is pretty dismal. They are about as wide as they are tall, to be fair though they aren’t very tall!

“We” (the liberal west (insert you preferred left wing term)) are the architects of our own downfall.

Looks like sweet chestnut to me, but not certain.

With those rays on the cut face? I was going to say it's a lump off a stag headed oak where the sapwood has rotted and sloughed off.

So is there a 2:1 reduction on the belt drive pulleys? I have never used one. On the tuning; back in the 70s my Husqvarna dealer had a centrifugal fan that was spun by the saw being tested, the load could be altered by varying the inlet to the fan, so it could be loaded to set the rpm. A similar thing could be done with a disc fitted with magnets and copper coils with ballast resistors where the work piece should be.

It's good that you have done that. I would find the best consultancy in your locality and learn how they do it. While making them money by being a competent surveyor. It's really isn't rocket surgery. There are loads of historical reports online which might allow you to guage what's what. Bon chance.

I went on an AA rum B5837 course just last week. It was good and went through the tree categorisation process but still some gaps to fill in terms of knowledge on impact statements and method statements etc.

You and me both dave.

I have a large driveway to top onto. I'm aware it will be chippings with leaves as well as wood chips. Would be helpful to know in advance so we can put a tarp down and make sure there is plenty of room

Them lads out there fighting have my utmost respect Les, brutal conditions and fighting against an enemy who cares nothing about casualties.

All great info! I will try to give it a go in the next couple of days and see where it ends up. I will post the settings I end up with. I was going to do it tomorrow but one of my friends phoned me today telling me he's got some oak that he got the local authority to keep for him, usually good sizes limbs which will help toward my firewood collection, a priority to collect that. The concrete saw I got as a job lot and to be honest for what it cost to refurb it, I'll keep it as I use one occasionally. On the other subject I also think that what is also missed is that a large number of people will learn from these sites but don't post and if it helps to keep things going plus in a safe fashion, re PPE etc, could even save an injury or worse. Going back many years I would just grab whatever powertool to do a job without any regards to safety, certainly no direct training. After seeing posts long time ago I went out a purchased PPE and will never cut without it. I have a hectare of wood with my house abroad and nobody wears PPE, but neighbours and friends have started to use it more. I would like to think as a direct result of reading this and other forums! Unfortunately people still get drawn in to politics, religion and football discussions of which there is no conclusion! I just skim over that crap and move on. Please keep up the technical posts as the genuine posters on here are a dying breed ( in all senses) and living in the throw away world doesn't cut it for me.

Once it is dry it might be ok as firewood. But it looks as If rot has set in so might not be up to much.

Digger decided to stop yesterday, worked out fuel filler in tank was blocked, blow pipe started then just stopped. No time to mess about length of copper pipe and fuel hose straight into filler with glove to stop crap getting in, ran all day and will do the same tomorrow, till we can get it home.

Hello all looking to buy either an old billhook or new forged near Manchester or Derbyshire before this Friday as I’ve got some days helping out hedge laying this weekend. does anybody have any ideas at short notice? cheers!

Either western red cedar or weymouth pine.work on one last week , dead wopd was the same , good burner

Valorbe files, are great when u can get them, better than oregon /stihl and other brands , they dont glaze like the rest and stihl files are shorter in length

Any ideas what tree this is and if any good for burning thanks

I haven't really done many stone cutters TBH, they are usually shagged on so many levels as the guys that run them, have no concept of cleaning and changing air filters so the cylinder, piston, mains etc are usually shot and repair stupidly expensive. These stone saws only rev to around 9600rpm so will sound pretty flubby compared to a saw. If the machines coil is limited, my tach starts bouncing all over the place so the easiest way to tune any machine with a limited coil is to richen up the H screw, rev the machine up and keep leaning it out until the tach goes wild and this way, you can be sure the carb is limiting the engine at the same point the coil is. This always worked fine for me. If you are doing much of this work then doing this sort of adjustment with a tach is pretty critical hence this tool was one of the first I got Not much help in your case but perhaps just turning the H screw right in and then leaning it down until there is no further change then winding it back in 1/6th of a turn may do it. On the Politics...I am referring to, as ADW was, about the guys that seem to hate each other on the threads about the Labour party, Russia, Farage etc. There is now very little about repairs on this site and guys like Garden kit, ADW and myself etc just move on. Unfortunately many of the "Old School" are gone and along with them, a wealth of knowledge....just the way it is. It is refreshing to get a technical repair thread👍

Cannot believe its 4 years since i started this thread, seems a lot less than that for some strange reason.

Just realised that the got this wrong. Taylor, Cap, Hunch

That's about £22/metre. It's may or may not be cheap depending on the cost of stakes and binders, but it's not a micky take either. What you could do is go on the UK coppice products website below and see what the going rate is for stakes and binders in you area. You need 180 of each. I haven't bought any down south for four years since moving north but I imagine the days of a £1 a stick down there are long gone. Coppice Products | Traditional and handmade in the UK WWW.COPPICE-PRODUCTS.CO.UK High quality, locally sourced, sustainable handmade coppice products such as baskets, fencing, trugs and more from your local coppice makers.