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Look at Cormidi can’t fault mine just fits in transit

Ha, Ok fair enough I'll let you have that one.K

I fancy more room in my van to finish work in 1 day instead of 2, and logs that small I lift by hand that actually what will save from visiting chiropractors 😘

They do a pedestrian machine. MT100? You don’t see many of them here and I think they’re on the old fashioned (ish) control pattern.

Whatever happened to bobcat! Those were the to go to back in the err 90's maybe.

IMG_6199.mov if you fancy chucking loads of them on your arb trolley and dragging them through a garden and on to the van then i’ll happily take shares in your chiropractors.

Call M Large, Alan will be able to help!

Not perhaps, what you might wish to hear: Maybe your first step might have been to control the Himalayan Balsam ( a scheduled Non-Native Invasive Species !), which were just starting to flower at the time your photos were taken (poss May/June, I'd suspect ?). Unfortunately, that horse has now bolted -which means : Any tracked or wheeled machinery used in your tree/stump removal, will directly and liberally disperse the Balsam seeds all around your site -and maybe elsewhere- ready to flower again next season...sorry! 😖 So, either get some advice from an experienced Invasive Weed control contractor, or wait until April 2026 before starting a programme of pulling/cutting/strimming the Himalayan Balsam plants -and only in September 2026 would your tree removal begin to start..

Ask on tree facebook. Then give it a few weeks for people to forget. Then ask if anyone has a second hand one to sell.

Hi, suspect you're past ELC or have already used it. You may have useful licenses as an ex Sapper that can be a quick win for a lot of potential employers, C1+E or better still C+E and have probably got plant experience/licenses with CS30/31 could make you really useful. If you have access to any funding TKF training do regular courses aimed at service leavers, Holmfirth so out of area for you.

For trees,,, or ai?

Hi, I'm appealing to the collective Arb-talk expertise -help, pretty please ?! Does anyone have any experience of the above company's new-ish small 4'' tracked chippers? I'm likely to buy one, at £6k for occasional use/small chipper replacement unit . However I'm concerned by the absence of any available users offering feedback (despite several requests to the manufacturer)... I understand approx a hundred units have been sold, in the last couple of years, without any issues, so far..(?) -Many of the machines sold in the south/Somerset area, I'm told. The five person family run Agri engineering business, seem to be well regarded. The machines are fabricated in their Carlisle yard, using a Chinese track Base and some Italian components too, I understand. Narrow access, tracked, and single feed roller only, 14hp petrol B+S. Apparently there was very little improvement, when trialed with a bigger 23hp engine. Do any of the folk on here, know of any end users, who would comment on their machines performance ? Thanks, Nick

What you'll earn PAYE is a broad spectrum depending on the firm and what they value you at, but I've found that guys entering the industry as climbers nowadays are offered about £11 - £12 ph if they are green. £13+ if they have a few years experience or pick it up quick, show efficiency, interest and prove they are reliable, with a good work ethic etc. After that, team leader roles seem to average at about £14 -16 ph. London it's often more. The trouble is, you have to somehow prove that you're worth the firm giving you climbing jobs. Especially if there are several trainees eager to get any climbing they can. It is a lot safer, easier and quicker for the firm just to use the experienced climber whenever they can. I've seen guys go and get all their tickets, turn up first day bright eyed and bushy tailed, only to get slowly ground down by the prospect of only doing small trees for the next three years. In my opinion, PAYE jobs can be harder to progress in. Your climbing background will help you. But Arb can throw some major challenges your way. Add a chainsaw, -4°C, sideways rain that leaves you frozen to your core, 100ft in the air, wind that makes you question the structural integrity of the tree and a lot of weight and you can quickly find yourself in a whole lot of trouble. That aspect of the job definitely isn't for everyone. There will be times where you experience near misses and you'll begin to understand the risks involved. If I were you, in today's climate, I'd give myself three years. Year 1, I'd seek an employed gig. Get them to fund some tickets and work until you've gone past the payback clause that'll be in your contract. Year 2, I'd approach some domestic arb contractors to get some Subbing work as a groundie. As many firms as you need to get full time work. 3 days a week with them, 2 days a week with him etc etc. Learn the ropes as it were... tell them that you're keen to try climbing. Keep them sweet by turning up when you say you will, keep your attitude straight and get after your goals. But keep yourself booked up as much as you can. Firms that like having you on board will begin to offer whole blocks of time. Like 3 months of work 2 days a week etc. Then you can start to plan around that. (Arb can go quiet all of a sudden so be careful there...) Year 3, you'll know if you like it or not by then. If so, push harder for climbing, learn what you can online, from books and through watching the more experienced guys. Start to think about how you can excel at the career. It's not all about knowing "what" you are doing up a tree, it's about knowing "why" You are doing it. Or some blokes come into the industry and decided they are happy chipping, cutting, working on the ground. There are too few like that because the money only starts to get better if you climb, or start out your own company.

Those were the days when you could collect a couple of kilos on a "use this day" licence

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Hi all, The reason i'm writing a post is due to a disagreement with the neighbours regarding some trees and hedges in the garden. We're trying to solve it amicably but looking like it may go down the council route. I've asked the council for some guidance to help clarify how rulings would work in cases where a "hedge" is a mix of both Deciduous and Evergreen trees, and where the line would be drawn in cases where the hedge is quite long indeed. Unfortunately the council weren't able to give me a clear answer, so was hoping to get some advice on here aswell. I've done a crude MS paint image of the layout of the trees and hedges in question to help demonstrate the situation. In this case all trees and hedges belong to Property 4, and Property 2 and 3 have an issue (understandably we think) with the height of the Laurels and Confiers that are above 2M and overhanging the boundary of the land. I appreciate the .gov guidance states that for it to be considered a 'high hedge', it [i] is formed wholly or predominantly by a line of two or more evergreens. [/i] But the bit we're unclear on is; what about any deciduous trees that are part of this hedge too. In this case it is very likely mostly deciduous if you treat the whole hedge as one and i'd imagine a complaint wouldn't be upheld in this case? Or am I looking at this the wrong way? I.e is it possible for the complaint to be limited to the evergreen trees solely? (laurels and conifers) and leave the deciduous trees entirely excluded and untouched? If viewed this way then the 'hedge' is 100% evergreen.... and i'd imagine the complaint would be upheld? What do people think? can anyone shed some light on this (no pun intended :D) or have been through something similar themselves? Image below, for scale reference, the [i]depth [/i]of the Laurel is about 3Meters or so, cheers Ged

I usually find dynamite is very effective.

That's right, the wissey isn't connected to the broads, now if I'd have asked about river moorings close to/connected the Ouse he'd have been close.

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Bit of beech fun

This isn't the first time you've jumped on one of my posts with information I haven't asked for, you did the same a couple of months ago when I asked about the reverse lights not working on my van, your long winded reply was all about break lights. Try reading posts properly before you reply.

Ditch Witch will all be way over a tonne Mick. They are an altogether bigger machine than the mini skids. Cast Worky Quad and Sherpa are both good, but won’t have the flow rate to run a flail effectively. Everything is a compromise!

Like Mick says. 500i is the answer to a lot of arb questions. Even a 661 on the same bar and chain is (or at least feels) slower on smaller wood. I’m aware that might sound like bollocks because displacement is displacement but I’ve just cut about 150 tonnes of 4-40” firewood with a 500i and a 661 on the same bars so feel fairly qualified to comment. 881/3120. Forget it. No point until you’re regularly doing six foot cuts. Too much misery for not enough reward.