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Showing results for tags 'stihl'.
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WANTED 64" Milling Bar .404 or similar length for milling
KMWilliamsWoodcraft posted an advert in Chainsaws
Time Left: 5 days and 14 hours
- WANTED
- USED
Looking for a new 64" milling bar or similar size for my setup in .404 size. IM from Mid Wales but can travel or we can work out postage! cheers guysAsk for price
Llanidloes, Powys - GB
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I’m a 21 tree surgeon based in north wales, and was doing perimeter clearance on a Scottish power substation in Kirby on the 29/5/25. My saw was stolen in the time of the team unloading kit and looking at the job no more than 70 meters away. The saw was purchased this January so looks fairy new and has the initial HGJ on both the handle and top casing. Just thought I would put it out on here if anyone comes across it. Cheers Harri Glyn
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hey guys, i recently put a new meteor piston kit in my ms880 as the previous piston put in by the PO was a cheap Chinese golf brand and it was scored up and actually had a crack in it...it was running ok however was low on compression hence why i put a new piston in. While i was doing this i also put in two new crank seals, exhaust and base cylinder gasket. Saw is now at 165 PSI compression HOWEVER there's now a strange rumbling noise ive not heard before and it wasn't there before, nor is it present on my other ms880. The saw seems to be running lean and doesn't want to idle if the screw is set low and it cuts out sometimes and bogs out. When it cuts out it can be hard to start again but will fire up easily if the choke is on... prior to the new piston it was actually running pretty well. I didn't remove the carb. In this very poorly taken video you can hear the low rumbling noise and it seems like its coming from the flywheel side. I swapped over the entire clutch side from my other 880 to this one and the noise didn't go away so i can clarify its nothing to do with that side. There is also 0 play in the crankshaft either side, no up down no left right its all tight so im assuming that means the bearings are good? but it sounds like a bearing rumble... Has anyone experienced this before? Im going to try and get a vacuum/pressure tester and test for air leaks as i feel its running lean and then move on to the carb and check the impulse line, does this sound like a good plan of action? cheers everyone! ms880 rumbling noise.mp4 and heres the old piston i pulled out...cylinder wasnt bad at all, came up good after a little scrub up. WhatsApp Video 2025-04-25 at 19.59.07_f0af2ef4.mp4
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Well if it doesn’t get any more controversial than an OIL THREAD, OIL BE DAMNED! 😄😃😁 Hello again folks. Having just been tipped off as to run in the engine on my newest saw, I’m curious as to what the current trend is regarding what BAR OIL is best? Thos who were around when I first joined the site and posted may distantly my nightmare with a new Stihl MS391 which refused to oil the bar. After much back and forth we (Arbtalk and I) managed to square it away to the overly thick Makita branded chain oil I was using. It’s syrupy thickness, challenged only by the likes of Diane Abbot, Angela Raynor and David Lammy, caused a lack of flow to the bar and chain, and was remedied by a flush and refill. (I thin with Oregon oil) Now I need to ask you people what you use currently and how you’ve come to that conclusion, if you will? Many thanks to all who have helped me, past, present and future ! 😁🫡
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Howdy Agimos! Just a quick one to rack your brains and harvest your opinions please? I am contemplating adding a small, cheapish saw to my collection, specifically for pruning task, light tree work on my property and to bridge the gap between my ratchet loppers and my smallest other saw, a Makita / Dolmar DCS4301 at 43cc. Initially I fancied an Echo 2511WES for its diminutive size and low weight. Two things put me off slightly, the £400 cost, and reports on this forum of issues with the smoothness of the chain in wood. Setting my sights a little lower, and slashing the budget required in half left me looking at three ‘big name’ entry level beginner saws all under £200, as listed below: Stihl MS162 @ £155.00 Husqvarna 120 II @ £170 Echo CS-310 ES @ £199 and the ‘off brand’ wildcard, in the image of my initial choice, a smaller saw aimed it appears at CS-2511 WES buyers; Mitox 270 CSX @ £199 also. Your thoughts and experience with these saws would be greatly appreciated ladies and gentlemen.
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I've just acquired myself an Oleo Mac brushcutter. (I'd never heard of them either) It's actually an okay machine. Problem is, the spindle is a 1inch / 25.4mm like a mid-range Stihl for example. I want to put a Stihl mulching blade on it. But, high-end Stihl blades are for 20mm spindles. Is there some sort of combination of adaptor rings so as I can put a 20mm blade on a 25.4 spindle? The more I try to get my brain around this, the more it hurts. It's like a reserve reduction? 🤔
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New member here. Have just come into ownership of an old 08s,turns out the entire chainbreak assembly is missing (everything apart from the hand guard) does anyone have any photos of an 08s chainbreak assembly? Or dose anyone know where I can find the parts? Thanks in advance
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Is there a company that makes hemp chainsaw boots? Any suggestion would be lovely
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Have anyone in the uk cut a gob over 50%+ to drastically charge the weight of a tree? I know it won’t work with certain wood like ash and most hard woods the risk of barber chair is to high! But on soft wood? I’ve seen a few westcoast guys doing it to trees! I just wondered if anyone in the uk does it occasionally?
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Hi all, first time posting on this forum. I'm rebuilding a 2007 stihl ms880. Saved it from the scrap. The history of the saw is it's been used for 2 months, then sat on a shelf for years. Then when using for the first time, the piston popped and since then has been condemned. I don't like seeing fixable tools been thrown away so I jumped at the task to give it a shot and rebuild. At first glance I thought a new piston was all it needs but further inspection need to change the crankshaft bearings, seals, gasket and new cylinder head. I've bought £150 in parts, but from further inspection it Could potentially cost another £450 My plan was to use the saw for milling. My question is, is it worth me to continue with the build with the potential it not work at all. Or should I just sell it for spares Cheers 👍
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Working Saw,runs and cuts amazing, insanely responsive, sits dry, no leaks/drips, sharp chain, new pull cord, new spark plug. Made in West Germany, mainly metal construction. Bit rough around the edges, rear handle is damaged but has been made usable, kill switch missing so turnoff with choke. PXL_20230324_141923884.mp4
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New here. I don't know of anywhere else to seek advice on this. So here we go. I volunteer for a small charity that do conservation work in the Scottish Southern Uplands. We currently have relatively low grade "strimmers". An old Hitachi grass trimmer and a newer Stihl FS70. We need to invest in a serious upgrade to tackle forests of Gorse. Our Lantra trainer recommended the Stihl 400 series because we will need the mulching blade and scratcher blade kits. The question is. What is the sort of minimum power required to saw and mulch gorse that could be 2-3 inches thick, 12 ft high and acres upon acres? I was thinking the Stihl FS 461. We don't have heap loads of cash either. So even a brand new Stihl clearing saw is a big spend for us. We are going premium brands though. Not taking a chance on cheap crap that may look good on paper. Thanks.
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I have two Stihl 020 tophandle (AV Super) chainsaws. One working and serviced, the other, complete, but for spares... Gathering dust rather than sawdust. I want to sell them, but don't know where (is Ebay best?) or how much to charge. A retired tree surgeon friend speaks of them in hushed tones as if I have a Picasso rather than a chainsaw. I'm sure he's overplaying it, but I don't want to sell them for 50 quid if they're worth 500. Any advice / pointers gratefully received. I hope it's OK to ask this kind of question here. Thanks
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I have an Stihl 023 chainsaw that I’d like to fit a carving bar too. I use it for fencing work and would like to try a carving bar for morticing posts. Could someone point me in the direction of a good bar and chain? currently running a 16” regular bar.
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THIS ADVERT HAS EXPIRED!
- FOR SALE
- USED
Refurbished Stihl ms170 Runs smoothly and is clean, Comes with a 14" bar and chain along with a scabbard pictured. I have run a tank of Stihl Motomix through it and it has a full tank of Motomix and SynthPlus oil. Great for a first time saw. If you have any questions please let me know. Happy to negotiate.£100
- GB
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THIS ADVERT HAS EXPIRED!
- FOR SALE
- NEW
Here is an Egan Straight Shot Muffler, makes a big difference to throttle response and cooling off the saw. Also sounds very nice and opens the saw up! I have purchased this but no longer need it as I've sold the saw without it! Any questions please ask£60
Stow on the wold - GB
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THIS ADVERT HAS EXPIRED!
- FOR SALE
- USED
Selling as no longer in the industry. 261 requires new clutch but still runs. All other equipment has had minimal use, in good condition. Petzl Sequoia (size 1) - £200 Bashlins/Spikes - £380 PulleySaver - £100 Petzl Flow, 11.6ml 45m - £90 Petzl Zig Zag plus - £180 Stihl 261 C - £150 Collection Only£1,100
, Devon - GB
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So, looked and then got a job where a big saw is needed. Have a husqvarna 576xp with a 24" blade and to be fair it always been enough. 48" by the time you go round both sides:thumbup: Any way this time it's not gonna cut the mustard. There are half dozen dead horses chestnut trees to come down. All my ground saws are Husqvarna so I enquired about the395xp but the max bar length is only 28" wtf. The stihl equivalent is the 660 and can come with 36" bar Didn't really want the 3120 seems to be over kill for what I want. Don't get why the 395 can only be brought with a maximum 28" bar? Never used a stihl ground saw except the 260. How does the 660 fair to the big huskies.
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Hi, Just a quick one. As the title says I'm having trouble starting the saw, this hasn't happened in the past. Every time I pull the starer cord the de-comp valve pops out just under a third of the way through the pull then making it go really stiff and not pull any further. any advice? Thanks alot Jack
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Hi I have been given an old chainsaw to mess about with. Unfortunately it doesn't start ( probably why my boss gave it to me for free). The chainsaw is 8-10 years old and has been sitting around for a year or so now. I have checked the spark plug and there appears to be a spark there, fuel line seems to be in a reasonable order. Could somebody please let me know what could be up with it and if its worth spending a few quid on getting it working again. Thanks, Luke
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I have a Stihl a41av and was wondering if this was classed as a vintage chainsaw, and if so, what kind of price could I get for it please? It has a 24" chain. Many thanks Steve
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Hey, new to the forum looking for some advice, i brought my 365 special into a hire shop/husqvarna dealer for a new chain, without asking me he ground out the oregon bar to suit a stihl chain, i wasn't to happy about it but he said its normal he dose it all the time and he has a special disc to do it. Has anyone heard of this? is it ok? Now the engine has sized after not much use since then, He says it over heated from being worked too hard, said the clutch was black and the barrel and piston seized, and wants me to pay for the repairs. It was defiantly not being worked hard and he checked the fuel himself and said the mix was perfect. What do you think?
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Hi. Having some issued with a couple of years old ms250 running an 18 inch bar. It seems that sometimes the nose sprocket on the bar gets jammed solid, enough that the engine sounds like the chain brake is on and you have to switch off and get the sprocket moving. When this happens the sprocket area of the bar appears to be quite hot. The saw was using half a tank of oil to a tank of gas which seems the norm. I took it back to the dealer who sprayed the oil off the bar and declared it was normal. With the bar removed you can see the oil pumping out. I thought the problem could be a lack of oil so I purchased and installed the bigger oil pump thinking this would be the answer. It now dispeces about 25% more oil but I still have the problem. I am cutting ash currently and have had problems with beech (beech was quite sappy). Tried a new chain and 16 inch bar and the same problem. I think I have the chain tension right, if anything on the loosed side rather than tight. - added a picture of a cut that resulted in one of the nose sprocket jams. Any thoughts? Thanks
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Is it any good or is it just more to go wrong?? Need advice! -
Hi, recently bought a Stihl 024, stripped it down and cleaned it! Really nice buy! Only trouble is the exhaust has been punctured! Will this affect it, also smoke comes from underneath the exhaust. ! What should i do? Replace? Cheers, Rob
