kram

In the video opening shot, note the carabiner and the wear on the top corner. Appears it is binding on the black peice and preventing it releasing. That is not normal wear for a biner. It doesnt look like a huge carabiner, just a bad design on that part. Can the black piece be adjusted up as it appears to be the bottom of its travel. I'd suggest trying it with a skinny steel mallion rapid quicklink. Anything in instructions about compatable carabiners?

Same issue with my new 52cc chinese combi engine, and is mentioned in many of the amazon reviews. I'll try adjusting the coil gap. Thanks.

I did not give legal advice, I gave my opinion followed by "get professional advice".

Yes the scale is something like that. Thin gloves that are suitable to climb in will never score highly. https://www.sam-turner.co.uk/products/pfanner-stretchflex-ice-grip-gloves I used to commute everywhere by motor bike, cbr600. 25 miles in icy -12c at 120mph. Quite cold! Without the right gloves, my hands would be completely numb, and that happened more than once. The solution was a pair of Spada Enforcers, which are a very warm winter bike glove, with a pair of chinese heated liners. A bit of a pain to get the liners in but they generally stay in place. This sort of thing https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bagima-Electric-Heating-Adjuatable-Cycling/dp/B0C6TMMQB1/ Not going to fit in climbing gloves. If they get wet, you will get tingly, burning shocks on your hand. However if its just to warm up in a big pair of dry gloves it'll work. If I could get bike up the hills to the main gritted road, it was generally safe enough. I did over 100k miles on that bike. There were a few expensive brands selling proper heated gloves. I bought them all, wanted them to work, sadly all rubbish with low heat output, tried and returned them, the heat was nkt enough a d gloves worse than the Spada's. May have improved by now.. that was years ago. The chinese inserts were hot, they could burn you if on full power for any length of time. On low power they were pleasant.

On the sort freezing wet day I would use them, my hands wont be sweating! The day I needed them was around 2c with persistant light rain/sleet/snow and I was deadwooding a large oak. Due to the size I used a throwball to get my ropes up, which took ages - Im not good at it, so before I started climbing my hands were already soaked and frozen. Swapped gloves to climb but it didnt help much. I gave up and went home (was on my own that day). The next day was colder but dry. I had it all done in a few hours, no problems. My order of some more Mapa582's just arrived. 5 pairs for a tenner delivered by parcelforce. I'm sure they must be loosing money on it.

Its just an option if he wants to keep it, looks are not everything. Tree may be providing a habitat for birds etc.. New leaders can be managed and not yoo bad on comifers. There are a vast number of topped domestic conifers and they make up a good part of our work to retop and manage them.

I'm not ignoring it, I looked at the pfanner in local shop a while back, I didnt think they'd be any better in the wet and I already have these which are adequate on an icy day if its dry. I can tolerate cold and wet better than most people. I looked up the pfanner, this is their result Not good. I do need a few pairs for wet work so have had a good search. I think they need to be fully coated and some are coated just to the wrist, others coated to the cuff. I expect if the cuff gets wet it will wick up through the glove and also chill the wrist. Even so, the fully coated to cuff ones dont seem to have a EN511 cold rating. I am going to order a pair of each to try. These score 021, so they are waterproof. https://www.zoro.co.uk/shop/safety/cold-condition-gloves/8833-cold-and-waterproof-glove-size-9/p/ZT3737827S These are 03x, so water is untested, still they are fully coated so should give some water resistance. Worth trying I think. https://www.zoro.co.uk/shop/safety/cold-condition-gloves/grip-it-oil-therm-yellow-black-cold-resistant-gloves-size-9/p/ZT1177199X

Raises a question for me, if this has been ongoing since a claim in 2007 it must be costing the owner a fortune each year to insure with a declared issue of subsidence. I'm suprised he can get cover. Do you know if its the same insurer? It may be a different one and they havent been told of past issues.

As above, in the current state it doesnt look good. How tall is it? You dont show the hieght or the distance to cabin. You could reduce the tree to a height that will be a much lower risk. This will need to be repeated every 5-10 years.

I dont have a problem in cold weather. My problem is wet weather if they get soaked through and neither type are waterproof. My solution to that is to have spare, dry, warm pairs and swap as needed.

Their reply indicates they will not be paying a penny of compensation to you for the lack of privacy, fencing, security, damage to your plants, garden or water run off. I do not think any court would side with them on the information presented here, if you argue the points that have been raised, atleast not if the cedars stay. Gather up all this info and get professional advice on it. Root/ground survey if your wanting to keep the trees. You can get rolls of privacy mesh, stick some new tall posts in and run it along the top of fence. This is supposed to be good tho I havent seen it, Im sure it will act as a sail, so at 3 meters you might need a 3 foot post spacing.. https://www.amazon.co.uk/VOUNOT-Screening-UV-resistant-Tear-Resistant-Windbreak/dp/B0B6DVM933/

Yes something like that. After trying them in the shop, I think the Mapa582's are better, thicker.

I dont think so as none of them are CE, only ANSI rated.

Seen the pfanner ones in shop, not convinced they are any better than the thin ones. Had some thick insulated leather ones that are good in wet cold weather but I cant climb in them, and they now have a hole..

Leather might be good when its cold and wet but most of the year will be sweaty. Wrapping the hand is dangerous in many situations. You dont want to be falling or having a shock on the rope with it wrapped. Definatly not on the ground holding the rigging rope, you'd loose an arm. While your going up, no problem. I quite often use a 2mm prussik cord to tend my knut, it makes a big difference but its a pain for changeovers, decending or moving around. Its a useful technique and its good to keep in shape. If I am mostly climbing the tree and have a short section where there are no suitable limbs, I will thrust my way up. My preference is just to climb the tree and just tend the rope. If I drop down a crotch and need to climb back over, I will often foot lock or get my acsender out, I always have it on harness, or when Im using a single strand cinch anchor it is useful. I have little interest in throwballing a line and ascending 20 meters of rope just to save a couple minutes.

Have not yet reassembled the cs340 although the carb appears to work, that can wait. Started on the KM111R, needed a lot of cleaning! New purge bulb and will need a new air filter. Starts and idles well enough. Only thing I notice, if I release the purge bulb quickly, its sucking in air bubbles from somewhere, bubbles up the hole in centre. If I release slow, over 10 seconds or so, no air gets in. Not enough to cause problems but any idea where from? VID-20241221-WA0014.mp4

Yes I have about 30 pairs of grippy cut resistant gloves, very good for climbing in as they give some silky protection but not too thick, thicker than the normal cheapies and the rubber lasts well. Mapa 582 Krytech. KRYTECH 582 NITRILE ANTI CUT LEVEL 4 GLOVES (SZ-9) WWW.EBAY.CO.UK <p dir="ltr" style="margin-top:0; margin-bottom:0;">Protect your hands with these Krrytech 582 Nitrile Anticut Level 4 Gloves. Designed for...

What device or prussik? No huge difference in friction for a knut between 11mm and 1/2" rope. One thing I havent seen others, that I do to ascend DRT, I usually have a wrap or two rope around my right wrist as it makes much easier to grip, but means shaking the slack down/arm up, after each pull. Although I am a rock climber with superb grip, I do need to wrap the rope to pull my fat 100kg arse up the rope. I have never had great arm strength.

The oldest 2008 photo shows a wall which is gone in later photos. We can probably assume when the wall was put in, roots may have been cut for a foundation or slab? Wonder if they removed foundations or just removed above ground when that went. Very little roots where the wall once lived. Tree that size should have roots stretching much further out. I believe thats the cause, sorry nothing to do with the pruning Somone with more experience should tell the guy and family that got hurt, perhaps they can claim proper compensation from the owners.

Aninteresting feature on street view is to look back in the same view over previous years

From the other side: looks to me that its been topped in the past as theres a large number of parallel stems.

Would anyone know the difference between the V1 and V3? I am tempted to get one at V1 prices but there doesnt appear any difference in the spec. I assume if there was a recall, they wouldnt be selling the V1.

Back to the 2511. I swapped the sprocket, suprised to find some rubbish between the socket and worm drive, must have been there since new? Without it there does seem to be some play which may be how it got sucked in there if it wasnt packing from the factory.... I have only used this saw in the tree and being careful not to cut any rubbish that may blunt my chains.. The 1/4" .050" carving bars can be used with 3/8" chains but the length needed is 42DL, not 40. As I dont want another spec of 3/8" 10" chains, so I decided it were best to modify the bar and shorten it at the sprocket end. Had to take off a reasonable amount so new adjuster holes needed. The bars are reasonably hard metal, so a decent drill bit is required. These bars have additional slots, for lightening? which could cause chain oil to leak out, so I will need to fill that with epoxy resin. The original TESC bar doesnt have these slots. Left is a new bar and right the modified one.

TBM means they are using the manhole (cover?!) as the height reference to measure everything from. I assume they put stickers everywhere for reference points. Manholes are generally large, textured rather than flat, probably not level and unlikely to be accurate if you remove the machine and replace it in a slightly different position. Just 3 measurements? Not a great sample size. I dont know what equipement they used, a theodolite? but the values do seem questionable, up and down, without a consistant trend which with only three samples could just be human error from placing the machine. Either way the measure of 2.3mm is on the scale of a blond one. I would not accept those results, particually not as evidence of the trees causing issue.

Nitrile is no good with modern fuels. I believe it is supposed to be Viton for fuel/ethanol resistance? The original was black and I'm assuming nitrile as it didnt last long. Anyway I have gone with the fast option, 9am Sunday delivery.. pack of 25 for a fiver. sourcing map Fluorine Rubber O Rings, 5mm OD, 3mm Inner Diameter, 1mm Width, Seal Gasket Black 25Pcs : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools WWW.AMAZON.CO.UK Free delivery and returns on all eligible orders. Shop sourcing map Fluorine Rubber O Rings, 5mm OD, 3mm Inner Diameter, 1mm Width, Seal... They fit well, purge bulb instantly works and squirts the remaining water that was left in the carb, put it back together and ready to reassemble the saw. I'll attempt to check over the KM111R later.