Conor Wright

Try cuddling one! let us know how it works out for ya, after the swelling goes down of course! But yeah, I kinda see your point, compared to mma it looks slower and less engaging somehow. Not that I know anything about either. Last fight I saw was two knackers in a lidl carpark. The fighting was poor but the commentary (amongst ourselves in the jeep) was priceless.

Occasionally but could live without it

Spalted birch is really nice, only came across it once. Very fine line between usable and rotten birch. I'd give it a go though, could be well worth it.

A neighbour of mine bought a lidl electric saw, I sharpen it for him from time to time. I'd consider it a pos but it has a couple of seasons of domestic firewood cut now, some of it fairly twisty, knotty cypress. Pathetically tame and gutless but it cuts wood, just don't file down the rakers too much!

Could it have had two leaders in the past as a much smaller tree and had one removed? Wouldn't really explain why the marking is as big as it is though.

I bought a branson 3510 a good few years ago and it had to go back to the dealer after yours truly neglected to adjust a slip clutch and stripped a cog on the pto drive train. They very kindly (and bravely!) offered a 35 hp kioti while they were fixing mine. It was OK. Turning circle was very poor, as difflock says they're loud. Mine was hydrostatic so no gearbox range issues but it was clunky. Build quality seemed good and the hydraulics were good, as was driver comfort. I would consider one for occasional use but not for a daily workhorse. Same with my branson. Its good, but not great. P.s front axle articulation was poor, I recall cocking a wheel coming down off a high kerb.

Before buying a new saw it might be a good idea to check out why so many saws have died on you. Good 2 stroke oil and accurate measuring is important and can make the difference between a saw lasting a lifetime and being scrap in a year. Proper sharpening reduces stress on the engine, anti vibe mounts etc too. Alternatively you could use aspen fuel as it is more suited to being left in the tank for longer. You won't find a new saw built as strongly as your old dolmar. I'd consider echo or dolmar/makita as better occasional use saws than stihl or husky. The newer professional saws seem to require constant use. They don't like being left on the shelf too long! The homeowner stihls and huskies are not much better than other made in China generic saws imo.

Sorry to hear that. It's heartbreaking. Sounds like you two had a really strong bond. A once in a lifetime companion, be happy that you got to experience it.

It's not so bad! Not going into too much specific detail on an open forum but essentially what I'm at here(Ireland) becomes a breach of regulation only after the authorities have been notified of an unplanned development and until that date (if it comes) you are not breaking any laws. There is also a time limit on the authorities to initiate proceedings. If they fail to do it within the time frame simple retention is the only means of "fine" they can apply. Basically what they don't know won't worry them. If it does go south I'm prepared to make a complete show of our planning and development processes in every court in the land and beyond for as long as it takes to prove that their methods, systems and processes are dated, unfit for purpose, practically unenforceable and contrary to numerous welfare, right to shelter and right of ownership laws. If more people took this approach there would be no housing crisis. Its a crisis of beurocracy and regulation, the result of which manifests itself in a shortage of housing. The reason its become so prevalent is that too many people are basically lazy and will take the path of least resistance (mortgage). My perception of what constitutes resistance is just different to most I guess! All that said, I have great respect for those that better themselves and make property investments. It's not easy and as a renter in a previous life I've met some excellent landlords and one prick too. Probably the best thing that ever happened really, if it wasn't for him I could still be renting. Now I own my own (modest but comfortable) place and can hopefully look at investing in land and forestry in the future as many my age look towards 20 years of heavy repayments.

Sixpence and a halfpenny tip to his boy if he doesn't cough up any soot on the way out.

Nice job. Its a tidy mog. my 1200 is in for a clutch and a few air related jobs. If all goes well it'll have a new body and a coat of paint before the year is out. Starting to look rough now.

Back of an axe here but have used a sledge too, the axe, being lighter is a bit kinder to the wedge imo. the hammer pictured above looks the business.

Does it always look that good or has it just been painted?

True. I often use the iseki sxg19 ride on to lift laurel clippings, does a decent job and the high tip means no barrowing into the trailer. Useless on conifer clippings though. Never used a walk behind for it, most of my jobs would be a bit bulky for that. Personally I don't see the advantage to chipping annual clippings. They compost in a season or two anyway. The mower is just a labour and time saver to me!

Hedge trimmings are a pain to push through a gravity fed chipper. Might be as well off with a little Eliet shredder for that kind of stuff. Branches, yeah the chipper will be better but if it's mostly clippings I'd look at a the Eliet

Is the 6 way valve plumbed off a proportional control, joystick or button activated auxiliary flow in the cab? What bar/pressure is the saw rated for and what bar does the digger put out?

Half Bury a row of 20cm+ diameter lengths of sweet chestnut, western red cedar, douglas fir etc at 1 mtr centres and plant a hedge of your choice in between? Best of both worlds

Make sure it's well propped if you're working on it so.

If the body is down and you can get at it there is some hope that it'll only be a bit of oil, not litres. If you have to have the body up it could empty the cylinder so be careful. The part you have found isn't the solenoid itself, the blue bit is. you can unplug the wires out of the blue block (to left in pic) and check you have current going to it when you go to lower the body. If you have continuous current (you need a multimeter to test it properly but a bulb and bit of wire might do the trick) it's defo the solenoid, if it's intermittent it's wiring.

Bit new to be giving trouble, there's not an awful lot on them so I'd start at the hub and work forwards. Is the hub full of crud, shoes properly seated and returning when brakes released? return springs working? Any sign of grease oozing from bearings or lateral rock in the wheel? Cables moving freely, connecting rod straight and not too tight when brakes are not being applied, etc If it happens only loaded have you could have too much nose weight causing the damper to struggle to return, it may have bent very slightly (doubt it, logbullets not that heavy)

Possibly yes, but forget about the one on the motor if its tipping. (Round one same as starter solenoid) The one Bob pointed out is the likely culprit. There should be a part number on it. Most good auto factor or agri places will have one, if not they should have it next day. Bin and replace and you're good to go.

Simple works. if it's just you using it I'd go as is, if there's a risk of it being used by an idiot then it may require some slightly more complex idiot proofing. (12v switchover valve/solenoid wired to ignition?) It just struck me, aren't idiots great? They do so much to advance simple things which need a little thought and care in their use so you don't cause damage, into these mega complex creations which require virtually no human input at all. All these advances can be attributed to a bunch of idiots, just blew my mind!

I reckon it's the wife he's worried about. An irrational anger response is common when old oily machines are mentioned in the vicinity of the fairer sex!

Engine flows direct to a valve, if this is closed and you try to start the engine you will build pressure. Other than that I see no issue, but I'm no expert, not by any stretch! It's an easy fix too, just open the valve first! I presume there's a pr valve on the block or somewhere on the existing machine.