Dan Maynard
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Everything posted by Dan Maynard
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I agree 230 are great but wouldn't want to buy a bag of trouble if you haven't budget for a decent one. I'd seriously look at the 125 / 160, a friend has one and there not much disadvantage in real world chipping to a 150 - the feed is very similar. Much newer chipper for your money, much lighter and easier to move round.
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I think the grain of truth is that this statement comes from someone doing London street trees, which is basically a race around the trees following the previous cuts on piece work. This suits young climbers, I've met people who went down to the smoke to do this and then came back. It's not what I want to be doing - I'd rather be in domestic arb working for people who appreciate me taking time and care to do a good job. There's no advantage in being 22 here, more of it's down to thinking fast, moving slow like Alex says. All about efficiency, and then thinking steps ahead will win over youth every time. Also turn up every day you say you're going to, with sharp saws and working kit. Also my point about hard graft, use a loader. Don't need to bust a gut humping heavy wood around any more.
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North Korean scam operator? Bot? -
Makita DUC254 (but put 1/4 pitch chain) or Echo 2500T are the lightest. Personally I have the 254, it's great for this type of stuff.
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I've got turnable chute on my JoBeau, can't say I have noticed that turning it causes blockage - more down to overfeeding leafy or stringy material as it's the weight of chips which push stuff through.
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There are ones that split and ones that don't, if the grains double twisted it does literally just bounce back the axe or maul.
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Our friends down the road had one that died gradually, I was a bit reticent volunteering to get involved - luckily it fell over in a storm and he cut it up and burnt it.
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Little bit like hill farm of sheep is different to barley farm in East Anglia, there's arb from small garden work through to big tree management contracts in London streets. Some of it will suit you and some not, but there's definitely work out there if you're a reliable, conscientious type of bloke. Any decent firm nowadays is using hydraulics to take out a lot of the manual handling, hopefully the next generation of guys will see the benefits of this in less back and knee injuries so career spans can be longer. Also if I was advising myself of ten years ago I'd say embrace modern climbing equipment such as SRT and ascenders , doing that in the last few years has really helped my old shoulders and elbows.
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Done a couple of smaller ones recently, split the wood up in the same afternoon while it's still soft and then seems to dry ok. Otherwise if I can't split it straight away I just dump it to biomass place, no point messing around once it's gone hard.
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That's the one, Italian ripoff. Muck truck is a brilliant bit of kit itself, mine is extended 300mm up and back over the handles so gets a lot of chip in.
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The Italian copy one is on tracks I think? You can take the chipper off so it's effectively a track barrow underneath. Other answers are towball on a muck truck, or buy an M500 which pushes itself.
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That's a good idea
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You know that and I know that, but lots of the enquiries were from Peterborough - in the city they don't know anything about trees and don't know neighbours to ask for a recommendation. Problem is bark do a good job of appearing on Google search. Ideally we'd all pay Steve a few quid to make a central tree surgeon index which does well on Google and everyone's info is written by another tree firm so is brutally honest. "Climbs slower than a three legged tortoise but makes a nice reduction nonetheless" type of thing.
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Still good firewood, patience will dry it just as well as a kiln. Local FB page, or look on the tip sites page here on arbtalk.
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Yes, bacterial canker. Interesting to see shot from further back - those shots have epicormic sprouting which is not quite normal in healthy hc. Keep watching, can be slow decline and eventually canopy starts dying back - have removed a couple in our village with this.
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I used bark a little bit when starting out, used to click the cheeky leads nobody answered for £3 so worth a punt. They pushed it up so far nowadays it's £30-35, just to get the customer phone number to find out what the job is or even if there is a job. Gone bonkers.
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Magnolia getting too large, no I.D. Keep or cut down?
Dan Maynard replied to Little Splodge's question in Homeowners Tree Advice Forum
Well there's obviously some correlation between tree size and root spread, so in theory yes - but there'll still be roots in the lawn, unlikely to do anything structural though. People seem to worry about roots much more than the actual problems they cause. -
Magnolia getting too large, no I.D. Keep or cut down?
Dan Maynard replied to Little Splodge's question in Homeowners Tree Advice Forum
This is why the usual advice for pruning magnolia is not to, they can sprout back with a vengeance with vertical growth that's not as attractive as the original tree. If it's too big though, can be the only answer. Bay is also one that gets big, you need to chop that back. They'll tolerate any abuse though. -
Think the Solidur Climb have calf protection too. https://www.chrisforestry.co.uk/store/Solidur-CLIMB-chainsaw-trousers-Type-A-p543321745
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I've just started a 20 litre of Rye oils finest. Also very much enjoying their Easing Oil LV in a pump bottle instead of WD40.
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I think utility sector have restricted them, UKPN guys told me they weren't allowed one. Can't see it in domestic.
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It might have changed colour in the hot weather so you suddenly noticed it?
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Nice air conditioned tractor cab sounds like a great place to be right now!
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@lloyd103 don't forget your marigolds while you're doing it, heh! ... a tree man, maybe gloves like Marigolds make sense for some tasks ...
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Option 1 - dice it all up and handball 8 feet up out of the ditch. Option 2 - leave it in big bits and pull it out with the plucky little loader. Went with option 2. Liking this game.
