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Dan Maynard

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Everything posted by Dan Maynard

  1. As I have these things with RRP wouldn't want to give them up. This maybe looks a bit smoother, but then again if you watch a video of RRP they fly around in a way that I don't.
  2. I'd still say the hedgerow ash is not that bad round here. In the absence of more science I put that down to East Anglia being dry, and part of the life cycle being in leaf mould - worst I've seen was working in central Ireland last year, obviously a lot more damp on the ground.
  3. 'Eco-wedge', sell it for £6.99 with the loop, essential for sensitive sites where they make you use bio oil too. I can see the market.
  4. I've heard of something similar, the oil flowing out the front of the cylinder is diverted in with the oil to the rear of the cylinder instead of back to tank. Benefit is faster travel, at the expense of available force. You end up with the effort of cylinder rod area rather than piston area, but for tipping down that would be fine.
  5. Live in Edinburgh, Scotland - as opposed to all the other Edinburgh's it would be if you lived there.
  6. 12 foot here too, I've got Brian James though. Based on what people who have ifors tell me the ramps are easier and lighter on mine, and it tows quieter, so I'd definitely suggest looking at both. I tow mine with a 110 hardtop, so I've got the long door mirror stalks fitted to see round it, and then the extra trailer width is not really an issue. Keep thinking about a remap, especially when the trailers full. Always get there though, just need to be patient.
  7. HC my guess too, probably super light compared to sycamore as it looks dry already.
  8. I've done the sketch trying to throw a rope up into a top while holding it up with one hand while it sits back on the saw. Nowadays if I'm not super confident about the forward motion I just put the rope in before I start cutting, so much easier and less stressful. Anything I can see being done with that little cone would make me nervous enough to have a rope, it's too late when either the cone won't move it or the hinge snaps. I guess it depends what sort of trees you work on?
  9. Remove all the dead if you want, it makes no odds to the tree as it's not being used any more. If you've just moved in then I'd give that a couple of years before doing anything, see if it's going downhill anyway in which case you have your answer. In general removing live branches is taking away leaves which is where the tree makes it's food, so pruning is stress and not great for a tree that is struggling.
  10. Also if this financial situation deteriorates it will show domestic arb is recession prone, rail or utility as close to recession proof as you can get. I think the only issue with a bigger outfit is they will promise to let you climb, it might take a while for them to get round to it.
  11. Dan Maynard

    Dolmar 166

    @shavey needs a mention if Dolmar 166 is being discussed, he might not buy it but will probably know someone that would.
  12. Yes done similar in driveways, you can chuck a rope round and pull them back a bit, but you'll gain a metre maybe two before you hit the wood too thick to bend. Alternatively drive through and then clean up whatever breaks.
  13. Welcome to the forum! Have you used search function and browsed old threads? Lot to learn there, I'd also suggest searching the Timberwolf 18/100 which has similar blade/anvil setup and used by more professionals starting out than the 13/75. Finally, worth ringing Timberwolf and asking them. They're only in Suffolk, can only say no.
  14. Doesn't cost the earth can be interpreted as don't buy loads of cheap Chinese plastic that ends up in the bin when something small breaks. At least with Makita you can go on L&S and get spare parts - small things like switch , screws, chain tensioner, sprockets, brake parts right up to boards and motors.
  15. The boring answer is sell the 200T on eBay and buy a new MS181 for doing firewood, probably have change left over.
  16. 201 mtronic with opened exhaust, wakes it up a bit. Could say boringly reliable, still idles like it did new, never been any trouble at all, although to be fair mine is not heavily used due to battery saws taking a lot of the strain and then just pull the 400 up.
  17. Can't see any reason to heat the files to red and even risk ruining the tempering. The best tip for files is never hold the handle and bang the tip of the file down on the vice, always flip it so you're holding the file and tap the back of the handle on the vice. If you hold the handle sooner or later the file will fall out mid bang and you bring your hand down onto the tang. Not done it myself but know others who learnt the hard way.
  18. Im fastidious about getting the depth gauge for each cutter right, for me this gives a chain which cuts straight and bars don't wear unevenly, so just need a bit of cleaning up the wear ridge now and then. Just hold the flat file across the bar with fingertip in the centre to show any lean, drawfile to clean up.
  19. I wouldn't want to use openable rings for that because it's not perfectly smooth for the rope depending on orientation, which you can't see at the time. Personally I'd buy a 2m multisaver and when you've used it so much its worn out you have no qualms replacing it.
  20. 12' is a big tree to transplant, there is only a certain success rate.
  21. I crashed on the M1 working in Leicester which is about an hour and a half away, just fatigue on top of long days. Work for myself so changed company policy instantly.
  22. People use it for floors though, 50m2 isn't that big if you've a couple of rooms. Mind the flooring would have been thousands for that so worth getting good oil.
  23. To be fair my rake is lasting ok, changed the handle a couple of times and just need to change the head again now.

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