Dan Maynard
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Everything posted by Dan Maynard
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I don't know about the price, but surely you've the same infeed rollers as the turbo? So it's going to be a lot better to feed than a 150 and only slower if you often stick great lumps in. On the bright side, non turbo engine is lower stressed and can't have a turbo failure so should be more reliable.
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On the one hand they really shouldn't be driving, let alone towing a caravan. On the other hand with a caravan at least they can stop and make a cup of tea on the 117 hour journey to Scarborough.
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Looks like he put the slices out to dry, then did a Google search for video which lasted about 12 years.
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Thinking about the bark cracks, came up with this https://arbtalk.co.uk/forums/topic/32284-what-is-this-cracking-in-this-ash-bark/#comments It doesn't look like it's been reduced before, what I've seen a few times is ash which has been reduced then left alone sprouts up and the sprouts break. I'd be tempted to just monitor for a while unless you really need to.
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A company will probably put you through tickets but it's an investment for the firm, so it's a long term thing. They won't want to do that and then have you decide tree surgery isn't for you and leave after a few months. It's a good idea to get some experience days even as a labourer, if you can ring around local firms. After that you'll get on much better if you can put yourself through CS30/31 so you can use a saw on the ground. You'll be that much more useful, more likely to get hired. Also you'll have your own saw trousers, boots and helmet so can sub days as a groundie even if you don't find a permanent job. Do seems to be loads of adverts around though.
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That's a rescue saw, guess it's firefighter garb there. I think the thread is the same on all the Stihl cans so that you can put a spout on the 5 litre single can.
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I'm with htb, sharpen it. Blunt chains rub, that creates heat. Some temperature increase is normal, but forcing a blunt chain can make the bar so hot the oil smokes (seen someone do that, couldn't believe he kept going). I haven't tried it but be very surprised if .063 chain would run in a .058 bar at all.
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I came across a few videos on fixes for this switch when I was looking for help on my 461. I think people were heating and remoulding the holder, or filing the profile on the shaft itself. Worth a bit of time in YouTube to see if you can find one that matches yours. Of course Stihl would say they do have a solution, buy a pro range saw.
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No, well done. I didn't know, was just thinking either the leaves are very big or Steve has tiny, tiny hands.
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I think it showed equivalent chain .325 narrow gauge from Husqvarna and Oregon in the video? I think you can also get Sugi narrow gauge bars, which are apparently better than the Oregon speedcut.
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Or the Makita EA4300 is more equivalent to an MS250 I guess. Lighter than the 550/261, and only about 330 brand new.
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So have you quoted for the whole job, taking it over from the original firm, maybe paying them a fee but they have no involvement in how the jobs run? If so, that's the bona-fide subcontractor that eggs was talking about. I think you're about right with contract climber, that would be you if the original firm took the job from the client, and hired you in to help them complete it. The main job contract is still with that firm and you are supplying labour and skill (maybe tools).
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Going to depend on bar length as well, makes sense that the longer the bar the more important getting the chip out of the cut becomes. This is what confuses me about RobD and his 20" Panther bar at 1/4 pitch, can't see how the chips get out. Even more testing needed. I guess Stihl have already done some tests though to claim it's 20% faster cutting, not like them to make up spurious marketing claims.
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Struck black gold?
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I went into the dealer for a 241 years ago and came out with a 261, I think he was right that unless you are specifically looking for a light small saw (eg hedging) then the 261 is worth the extra few pounds. Ringing up stems you will certainly appreciate the extra power, although true enough they are both going to be a whole heap better than a 170. If budget and autotune are worries then lean towards the Makita.
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You could try ringing GTS GTS - Firewood Logs WWW.GTS-TREES.COM Hardwood firewood logs, seasoned for a minimum of 12 months. Huge Firewood log stock really for immediate delivery. Don't believe the website, they've moved yard from Alconbury to Manea. I imagine they would want to charge but could probably drop you off a ton bag or two if you don't want a whole truck full.
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The tensioners job is to hold the chain tension only until the bar nuts are done up. If it's losing tension after 5 minutes, that's not a problem with the tensioner - either the chain is stretching (which will only happen for a bit when new) or the bar is not clamped properly. This could be because the tensioner is not assembled correctly and holding it off. I'd have thought a trip to local Stihl dealer would be an idea, someone familiar with the saw should be able to set you straight in a few minutes.
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I was thinking about the fuel earlier, if you run a 500i hard and it uses an extra 2.5litres per day that's 50 litres petrol and 1 litre 2T oil per month, say 70 pounds. 12 months, that's £840 or the cost of the saw. Will it have earned you £840 more in what you felled? Need to factor in the extra time walking about to get fuel. Strikes me in domestic arb the fuel consumption is irrelevant, and the light weight a bonus if climbing, so the 500i is brilliant..
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Have a look at YouTube outinthewood , he's done a few videos with 572 and 500i, seems to prefer the 572 for felling work. I think others have said the 462 is almost like a husky so maybe the 572 and 462 are somewhat comparable? Not used a 462, I bought a 461 just before they came out and I don't suppose I'll ever wear it out.
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The 500i air filter apparently fills up with sawdust in no time.
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I remember my dad mending everything with fibreglass, most cars had quite a bit in the bodywork. He also patched the crankcase of his Dolmar 112 after dropping it out of a tree, repair is still there and perfectly sealed 30 years later.
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Maybe some silicone rubber sheet, or gasket paper at motor factors - cut your own?
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Or 461 will run a 25" very happily, if the tree is 41" DBH then it would make the stump cuts easier.
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Yeah that's fine for cleaning and tyres. Some of the small tyre compressors are a lot smaller, will do a tyre eventually but no good for blowing etc. They tend to have no tank at all.
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The good thing about a smaller tank is it fills quicker at start up. I would say definitely don't go above 25lt, smaller will be fine for blowing and pumping tyres. Look at the hp of the compressor more than tank capacity, as this is what actually determines the amount of air available.
