outinthewood

I agree and the cooling slots thar appeared in '16 make a big differance, I did a little "test" and I think it was about 3/4 degrees cooler if I recall correctly.

I asked since I find that the "5" saws do need the best fully synth oil to run at their best never mind to make them last. I know this has been covered many times before but no harm in reinforcing a point ! And your 560's life span would tend to support that also. On the posts about saws failing after having new top ends fitted, over here the importer would replace crankcase and top end if the all to common crank bearing failure on early saws occured so you more or less got a brand new saw.

Is your point that good quality oil is the answer ?

Well if monkey jiz and fanny batter is all out of stock you could try anti-freeze / summer coolant ? same thing ? that will" swell things nicely" and wont evaporate. I use it on axe heads. Gave up on Hilfts years ago and just double stack poly/plastic wedges although do still have a hilift in the kit just in case, old habits die hard !

No reply from the OP on this, but , there was a reply from another member stating which may seem an to have been a STBO reply but the guy was just trying to help and I suspect english is not their first tounge. The point he was making about oil for these "5"s is very correct.So stating the obvious sometimes is the answer ? I suspect in this case after "a good few years" the saw has done it's work.

Is it oiling ? If the worm gear is worn / damaged it can still oil a little and seem ok until you take off the bar and run without the side cover and see if all is ok i.e. a good stream of oil !

What ever you are "recommended" you will have to be able to sharpen it, so, how are you on that front ? What are you cutting ? I've used square ground and I can file that by hand but the timber has to be clean - moss covered dusty stuff will just take the edge. Square is with out any question best machine done. In support of Skyland the X-cut seems to be in demand at least here.

I'm afraid I agree with Sveriges, you have changed the airfilter and cleaned up all you can without going into the carb. I've found on dirty carbs on these it just gets hard to start and not keen to run at tickover and they seem to take a serious amount of cleaning i.e. striping maybe two three times including the "needle" module to clean trough with carb cleaner etc. I suspect if pluged in you would be seeing the "partial sieze" error codes 13 and 17 if I remember ?

NFG if you re-read my post you will see I am suggesting that anyone interested in skip/semi skip chain vist Madsens site and read up on application of such chain not order ! It is a very comprehensive read. We all know Rob stocks skip etc. As I am in Europe ( and will be after '19) I am very aware of what it costs to get gear from US/CDN suppliers although if it's the only way to get the gear you want in my case my saws then you just have to put up with it, here we can get 150 euro of goods before tax and USPS is far more affordable than our post i.e. a 372 XP will cost $110 from Oregon via airmail which I don't think is bad value ?

Anyone thinking about "skip" or "semi-skip" chain should really visit the Madsens saw shop site and have a little read up on skip chain. It only really starts to work on bars 28" and over, although Rob D now sells a extreme skip for milling ( looks like it got a deal for bulk tooth removal at the local dentist !!) which works very well but I assume it is how its cutting i.e. with the grain. I did try some semi c on a zipped 390 XP on a 30" and it was not great as it felt like I was holding the saw back with a dull chain. I had very bad problems some years ago with my elbows ( two days on a trolley in A&E with IV) and was told to find another job as I wouldnt climb again full time...it took about a year to get back on form and I dont climb unless its the only way ! I take a supplement " Revive" which has helped a great deal with my joints including the right hand which has bad knuckles from years of "only jessies use decomp !" saw starting.

The guy I use to do my work saws did a video of his 346 with a 32" bar just to see how it ran and the only drawback was that really the oiler was not upto it ! Now we know that could not happen every day and would any sensible person want to but no reason why a well done 346 in the hands of a person able to sharpen should not run a 20" well if required ? so a 18" would be a bit of a weapon. A 550 will run a 18" 3/8 in good order if you only have a few "bigger" ones to do, I do keep thinking of having one done..... This question really is going back to the reason "ported"saws came about smaller/lighter saw = bigger power as has been disscused in a thread a couple of weeks ago, this is a very good example of making life as easy as possible and indeed prolonging your working ability ?

I run several "ported" saws -562's,372,375,385,390and 394 and anything else I use has at least gutted muffler and if avalible bigger air filter. Now why run them ? it comes down to a couple of reasons, at my age I want the lightest and most powerful package I can get and also working with harvester on a regular basis when they are pulling in a tree for me I want it to go as fast as possible to prevent any mishaps , momentum is your friend ! same for winching. With regard to emissions I would have thought that although it is taking more fuel the air/fuel mix is more efficient if you expand the argument about cutting faster then you are next to the saw for less time ? As for the reliablity I've not had any unusual problems. Your average Canadian / American "faller" only expects to get a season from a saw then this years becomes the spare and onto the new. I'm getting much mre than that !! I have my saws done in the US just as I want them, have tried a few builders and have settled on one for the last few years.

Not much wonder the bars are good they are Tsu's just "badged" Echo.

I always have a little laugh about sweeping statements about new models, although there were without any question problems with both Stihl and Husqvarna I think both have taken on board the lessons that they needed to. The 572 has gone through 4/5 versions before being released so I would like to think thats pretty well "field tested" but is it "idiot" tested ? we all know of folk that should perhaps be taught a little more about maintaning saws etc. This not a problem only in the chainsaw world - ask any of your pals about new vehicles and I know that you will hear the same story... If you look back at any thread about saws you will always find another sweeping statement about how the "...." model was the best ever made I think that should really read it's the model we know more about ? And again in a fairly short time what we are knocking now will be the "best " I have had/have 3x550 1x560 and 3x562 - 2x 550 gave problems, the 560 was rebuilt twice under warranty and 1x 562 gave up it's crank bearings. So would I buy a "new" Husqvarna ? in a heart beat because Husqvarna covered all problems without question and despite those problems I still find my days work is easier with those saws. Merry Christmas everyone !

572 should be in the shops so to speak "spring" 18 price in euros 1260 incl Vat RRP , that price as it starts at with 20" bar I may be out by around 20ish euros as I was only listening to the main 1200 figure ! By then it's been out and in Austria, Poland and the Swiss markets for a fair time so should have heard of any problems ?

Have them on all of my main day to day use saws. Found them very good for allowing brushy rubbish to clear and if triming up the butt end also clears much better. The design of the 560/562 negates, and no option anyway !, the need really as the clutch cover is much more open at the rear and if the roller chain catcher is fitted they clear fairly well. The Husqvarna wide discharge cover is still fairly compact compared to the Stihl version as I found if you didn't have the Stihl 3/4 wrap you would catch the clutch cover as it has a pronounced flare to it.

Who said anything about flooding ? I find that a lot of folk are "afraid" of Autotune/Mtronic it is as you said a carb that can get dirty and can be cleaned and the basic things are overlooked. There are a couple of extra wires and no needles that can be adjusted to see whats going on. I had assumed from what the OP had said he had checked the basic stuff and he made no referance to flooding, perhaps I should have said damp instead of wet in other words proof of fuel . I'm not 100% sure but the way they are wired can mean a spark but the fuel valve is not doing it's part, I'm sure a dealer can wade in on that ? In my 30 odd years of running saws as my job I sometimes forget to state everything and some of it is still in the brain not printed out !

I have run and owned three 550's a great saw that can do some odd things, Just asking the plain basic- the plug is wet but still not starting ? all the wiring harness is connected and not damaged ? I don't know if there is a way of checking the fuel valve without pluging it in to the workshop software ? There is a magnet below the "Needles" which can pick up bits of debris which can cause problems but not sure on starting. When I've done the big clean I have had a no start - dash a little fuel- not carb cleaner- over the air filter and away they go. As already said they are a carb after all, you can still strip them and clean it's just they dont have needles as we know !

Adw and myself forgot to mention mind you do not damage the spring steel cover on the face of the bar mount, there is a couple of "wings" that help hold the studs in place, or in this case not so well ! I take the plate off and place large washers to spread the load on the ally surface.

Get a magnetic pickup tool and fish around or empty oil tank give a slosh around with mix and thay should reappear. The tank is sort of "L" shaped and they could/should be at the bottom behind the oil pipe. The magnetic pickup tool is very handy for re-seating them. Arm yourself with a couple of nuts that will fit over the studs and use them as a spacer to pull them back into seat.

It was bothering me that I was incorrect on the inner spike removal so just had a quick look at my 394 and you can get at the bottom bolt but would be some job to get at the top one ! I've done it a couple of times over the years but it would appear not on a 394 !!

I'm assuming you are saying that after removing the side cover you can not reach the two Allen type bolts ? then move on to steps two and if required 3. Step two is not as easy as it sounds you have to be fairly firm getting the rear stud out and you may slighty burr the stud but power head- stud argument I'd sooner replace a stud !! Step 3 is really a last resort as anyone knows pushing a "stud" back in is not ideal I run a 394 which is a fine ported saw,have run a couple of 395's stock and good saws. I looked / handled a 661 and thought the spring mounts were a little soft but I would assume that like the 441 a "hard" set are avalible ?

Well since you stand to be be corrected I may as well do that ! If you have managed to get the inboard clutch saw, in this case a 395, stuck solid which we all have then the first thing is to remove the inner felling spike which gives you enough room to wriggle the PH out but if that is still not doing the trick then move the saw around and free the rear bar stud out of the bar groove which should give even the most trapped saw free ! Now if you still have a problem then maybe someone else should have been doing the job but in the 395's case the bar studs are a push fit in through the oil tank and are also held in place by the bar wear plate which is spring steel and has a couple of "wings" which hold against the bar studs, give the end of the stud a sharp tap to push them into the oil tank and now you have it ! I have had to do the inner spike job on a out board clutch... just the one time so yes it's quicker but not the end of the world.

The 395 looks well, I've not run a 575 but have a couple of 576 and they have to be the smoothest saws on the market if in standard euro spec a rather dull saw.. Gut the muffler and add a HD filter and it's a good saw.

I run 22" in small/med windblow and as the actress said to the bishop - every inch counts - It's no big deal asking for a 77 dl chain if you have a saw shop near ? or if you make your own chain. When you have used a 22 it almost makes a 20 redundant well in my line anyway !