Jase hutch

Hi Bill , I have emailed a picture..?

The hinge is part of the chute on the new design ?

I'll ask the question , i saw the prototype last week..

This morning..? Picture to follow..

5 Shires with the infeed chute now fitted..

"Eco 150 TMP - GreenMech" https://greenmech.co.uk/products/eco-150-tmp/

The bonnet switch is on the engine cover, near the hinge that's in front of your left foot when standing on the platform , the cam should release the plunger on the switch when the bonnet is shut.. Jase..

Hello Soeren , I would post the instructions for programming the RDS on here but there's a lot to it and I would rather talk you through it first and then email the booklet out to you should you need to refer to it in the future. Can you give me a call tomorrow morning on : 01789400044 and then select the option for service ?? Hopefully it will be a quick and easy fix ? Jase..

I'll chase them up.. Jase.

Did you manage to sort this ? Jase.

Hello , When you say there’s no power going to the control box , do you mean that you’ve actually tested for power in the junction box or do you mean ‘the display doesn’t light up’ ? Jase.

Hi Jamie, If you remove the cassette assembly you should see the hole for the spindle bolt to push through which will then allow you to remove the 12mm eye bolt. Just make a note of where the washers are fitted.. Jase.

Hello... The cassette needs removing and then you will see the hole for the bolt to pass through.. Jase..

Easy enough to test , park on a slope and stop the engine , waggle the tracking levers to relieve any pressure and see what happens ? If it moves then it can only be the internal brakes as Pete has mentioned. They are held on by spring pressure and released by hydraulic pressure..

GreenMech torque is 28Nm on the torx head bolts or 32Nm on the Allen head bolts.. Jase.

Just thought I'd post this to show the maximum engine and flywheel speeds.. Jase.

Hi Richard , Thanks for the feedback..Nice one. Jase.

Hi Richard , the No-stress light should flash red with ignition on and override button pressed and then go solid red when movement is detected and finally a solid green when up to maximum revs. This can sometimes look like an Amber colour though.. Does the proximity switch light up when both cam lobes pass it ? You could try removing the back from the No-stress box and check to see the box is set correctly , there should be a list of machine settings in the box or stuck on the back of the lid. You could also try inputting a lower roller start speed by altering the dial in the box , if you then managed to get a green light at maximum rpm , it would suggest that maybe the engine isn't revving high enough ? From memory the engine should run at 2900rpm maximum but i can check this when I'm back in work tomorrow.. Feel free to give me a call on : 01789400044 Jase.

Also check , if it has a proximity switch that the switch isn't damaged at all on the face that picks up movement from the cam lobes ? This can happen if the flywheel bearings fail.. Jase.

Hi Richard , sorry I've only just noticed this post. Right , the two wires at the No-stress solenoid go on the two small contacts and it doesn't matter which way they are connected as it's just a coil. With the ignition on you should have a positive at the one wire as you say you have. The other wire is the earth and is supplied by the No-stress box but only when you have a green light on the box..... The red flashing light indicates that no speed is being detected and is the usual for when the ignition is switched on and the override button is pressed .. Normally then when the engine is running the light goes solid red and when the revs are increased it should go green. Check to see if there is a proximity (shaft speed) switch fitted in the aluminium pump mounting housing on the rear of the flywheel ? If it's there , check it's plugged into the back of the No-stress box ? If it is then you could try un plugging it and carefully try to open the male pins so they make a better contact when plugged in. There will be an led on the end of the proximity switch where the cable is and this should illuminate with the ignition on and the override button pressed when one of the cam lobes passes the end of the switch. The gap between the proximity switch and cam lobe should be 1.5-2mm.. If this all looks OK then I would try a new swich as it's a lot cheaper than a No-stress box. If you can't find a proximity switch then its either missing or it could possibly be one of a handful of eco's that were alternator sensing ? I hope this all makes sense and helps ? Jase.

Briggs ??

I take it you're a Forst man then doobin..??

Why not email [email protected] Or call , 01789400044

Could you try removing one of the pumps carefully to check the plunger hasn't stuck ?