BishBashBosh

Might get the van under that, but the caravan is gonna snag it. 😇

I only add Stabiliser at the end of the season when the mower will have 2 or 3 months without use. Really not needed if you are using the machine and buying fresh fuel every couple of weeks.

I think they changed/upgraded to chrome plating the bore.

Probably coincidence. It's not impossible that a connection to the turbo has been disturbed, if there is a leak in the induction side the engine overfuels and produces lots of black smoke under acceleration (think battleship "laying smoke") . Fingers crossed that's what it is as it is a cheap/quick fix.

Large piles of wet sawdust are most easy moved by putting an old canvas tarp down first. Takes 10 seconds and then the same to move when done. Not the usual 5 minutes trying ineffectually to get the last bits out of someone's lawn. leaf blowers are for ... blowing leaves, drying your car after washing and cleaning the dried grass off the ride-on (mower). Anything else there's usually a better/easier way, but we all like using a "machine". 💪

Really don't think it's necessary. Modern synthetic oil component is safe at 100:1, with the important caveat that you've not got it running stupidly lean. If you must add some then use a good fully synthetic oil (Stihl HP Ultra) or similar.

For roots and nasty stuff I like the Fiskar PowerGear loppers, less than £40 from Screwfix, 27 or 34", absolute beasts. If you can fit it in the jaws it'll cut. I occassionally stone the cutting edge, they really produce a clean cut. Worth a try for the money, or just keep them for roots & brash. I use them in preference to a Silky for the cut. I found some of the old model going for £10 and bought 3 pairs, gave one away and 3 years on my backup set remain unused as I've not managed to kill the first ones. The only negative is due to being geared the handles need to be wide open to get the big stuff in which can create access issues.

-Drink more of my good wines. I'd hate to go and leave too many behind! -Finish recording my album. -Do some little gardening chores for my elderly neighbours so they've got a nicer view from their windows.

Most of the QE money was retained by the financial sector to prop up their balance sheets which were loaded with toxic debt, hence didn't generate the classic inflationary pressures.

The size of the "dash for cash" is so large that it's suppressing any upward Gold trend. When demand recovers for all goods and bearing in mind the vast increases in money supply that governments are using to prop up our economies then the risk of high inflation may see a surge in Gold as it fulfills its traditional role. Most western economies haven't experienced significant inflation for so long that people have forgotten how it just eats an economy.

Playing Devil's Advocate , yes you're paying for it, but it's a service rather than privilege. You are paying for taking some of the financial pressure off for three months. There will be a good number of people for whom that's the difference between being bankcrupt in a couple of weeks or not?

Investors are selling off assets to raise cash and cover losses in other markets. Buying on Margin means that investors are required to repay the loan if their investment falls below a set price, hence the need to generate cash through asset selling Gold is still holding up pretty well, broadly flat over the last month as the downward pressure from the above is balanced by its traditional safe haven buying. The industrial precious metals (Platinum, Palladium) by contrast have dropped 30% in the last month as manufacturing demand vanishes.

Gold is at an all time high currently as some investors look for a safe haven away from the markets, which is the classic response to uncertainty. So now looks like a good time imo to sell unless you want to retain a "safe" asset. When some stability returns to the market the Gold price is likely to settle back. Work on getting the scrap value, unless there are some interesting pieces you fancy trying on the bay! Sites like Gold-Traders. will give you an idea of what to expect then it's up to them whether to keep or if they need some cash now. Personally I'd be selling the gold and looking to a simple Equity tracker when I felt the market was getting near bottom. But It'll depend on their financial situation and risk acceptance.

OP Hopefully you should find the Echo Service Manual PDF attached. Specs and procedure for setting are in there, it's the best place to start. Echo Carb Adjustment Table Euro spec.pdf

It's got a way to go yet. Looking at the Gatwick weather current highest gust 36 kts, increasing to 53 kts ( 60mph) from 9AM through to 7pm, with 63 kts (70mph) probable 3-7pm. Heavy rain and thunderstorms. Gradually reducing after 7 tonight. (36 to 63 knots is triple the wind loading, so more fun to be had yet). The link below is handy, click the graphs tab for a simple visual on what the wind has been doing, .LGW airport weather

I've used both, just whichever is easiest/cheapest to get on the day. Can't tell any difference other than the colour. Aspen is a pissy yellow and Motomix is a dirty grey/green. Stihl use HP Ultra as the oil element and Aspen their own fully synthetic. Both claim to be biodegradeable etc

I'm in the Midlands. It is expensive, roughly three times the price of unleaded + synthetic oil. However, as a homegamer I get through about 10 litres a year now and think it's worth it for the lack of hassles I've had since switching.

I'd also run it on Aspen or Stihl Motomix (pre-mixed, ethanol free fuels). It's expensive (£20/ 5 litre can) but given that your saw may sit around for a month or more between" logging sessions" it will save you hassles in the medium term. Essentially it stays fresh for ages and doesn't bung up your carb whilst keeping the diaphram etc supple. Not had an issue with any of my 2 strokes in the 5 years I've used it, including an old strimmer that get used maybe twice a year.

These are usually referred to as "Greedy Boards", which may help you search for more info. HTH Like this...

Chairman Meow. Trained to walk to heel, sit on command and retrieve. Odd but amusing.

If you are some way down the buying route contact the owners and just ask them to remove it (30 second job) and take a photo. Tell them it is likely to delay the sale otherwise. It will save you at least £200. ps. I doubt very much that will have done any damage.

Africa. The Bees there aren't all cuddly like ours. ??

The dog tooth is a good idea, but that's not an example to follow imo. Dodgy backcut and they've basically just winched it over. The OP's tree has a whole lot more going on, lean angle, twist, rot/dysfunction. Ideally there'll be some machinery available, chain/strap to reduce the barber's chair risk, minimal cuts and pull it over with no one in the drop zone/near it. If the pens get flattened they should have opened their wallets and got a climber to block it down, rather than asking someone to risk their neck. I've dynamited a couple of trees that were too risky to get near for long (full of manic bees), but it's probably frowned upon in the UK??

Bodger's approach to garden lighting. I went for a 12v system all the way from the house, running mains voltage underground requires a degree of caution. I wouldn't place too much trust in an RCD. With the 12v stuff I started doing it properly then got bored and did most of it the easy way. I had an old 210mm circular saw blade which I mounted on a couple of bits of 2x4 with some studding, it ending up looking like a cross between a pizza cutter and a unicycle ? and used that to cut a slit about 4 inches deep into the lawn when the soil was damp/soft, laid the 12v cable in that and then used a bodger made from 5mm ply to push the cable into the slit. Felt like a bit of a bodge, but I only ever run the ride on over that area, 10 years on and it's still working fine and hasn't been lifted by frost etc. I have a switch for the bridge so I can turn that off independently of the other lights, where the cable comes up I slipped a bit of old metal pipe over it, angle grindered a slit for the cable subsurface and hammered it into the ground to protect it when strimming, the switch being on an old gate post. Dedicated 12v garden lights are stupidly expensive. I bought some which look the same as your link and converted them from GU10 (240v) to MR16 (12v) fittings, you can get MR16 bulb holders cheaply from Amazon/ebay etc and it doesn't take long to do each one. Most MR16 LEDs are DC, but it's not too hard to find ones are AC capable. I like the warm white ones for landscaping, some of the cheapies are very harsh and make your garden look like a golf driving range. LEDs are bright, so depending on your intention (landscaping lighting/accenting or security) you might have to try a few different wattages. The brochure links at the end include 1-3w MR16 LEDs, I got rid of the 5w ones I had as they looked like security lighting ended up with 1.1w in the spots and 0.7w in the pedestal lights. The 0.7w are as bright as the old 9w halogens as an example. Those spike lights have gaskets but rarely keep all water out forever, so that's another advantage of the low voltage approach. I had one which I forgot to properly tighten the face plate on and it filled with rain water, I only noticed when it started to grow algae inside, still worked despite effectively being submerged. Whilst mine is a bit of a DIY bodge it has all worked flawlessly for 10 years. All the mains voltage elements are correctly installed and protected (IP64 or better) doing a full 80m mains voltage install is a different scale of job to 12v system. Most of my connections are inside the supports of pedestal lights, just crimp connectors, the two underground ones are crimped with heat shrink on, inside a budget plastic junction box then filled with silicone. Classic bodge again, but it works. - This Techmar Brochure indicates that an 80m run is feasible depending on the load. -Luxform Brochure. The transformer I have is a Luxform 105w, my total load is about 25w, nothing like having some headroom! You might find some useful ideas in there, or not. Most of the LEDs are regular items, they just rack up the price because its specialist landscaping lighting, only the "system builder fittings" are unique, it's easy enough to do your own connections for a fraction of the cost. HTH

Late reply, but I'd go for a 12v AC cabled system. Generally the commercially available solar lights are utter rubbish, the pv area is inadequate and the internal batteries are very low quality/capacity. They glow rather than illuminate. I've have one mains voltage to 12vac transformer which runs all my LED lights. That's 7 pedestal types on a 30m run from the transformer to the front of my house (1.5W each) and another 7 at the rear (25m run) and then from the end of that I have a 40m cable to a small footbridge which has 8 x 1.2W LEDs underneath. Despite the cable run lengths there's minimal voltage drop at the end of that run, a previous 12 DC system didn't like those longer runs. There's more 12v AC LEDs available now and I make up my own light fittings because I like to be able to chose and or replace the LED. There's some silly money asked for some of these LED garden lights, but it's easy enough to buy regular "waterproof" fittings and convert them to LED. It's only 12v so the worst that'll happen is it won't work. HTH