BishBashBosh

My new Echo CS-390-ESX, before it gets covered in crud:flute: 15" bar, Oregon .325NK (95VPX)

You can download the Echo Carburettor Adjustment Table (European specification) via this link: http://www.echo.fi/wp-content/uploads/kaasuttimensaatotaulukko.pdf If you're starting from scratch it gives the start points etc for TAS, L & H jets. I've only got 2 Echo machines but the carbs have needed adjusting on both from new. Blower wouldn't accelerate beyond 5500rpm (7200rpm ideally) , and my CS-390 was very lean and was still accelerating hard at 13500 rpm (max eng rpm), off the throttle still reached 13850 rpm and obviously would have gone much higher had I hung onto the throttle. Hope the above helps.

-Chains Direct for me. Sensible pricing and they're reasonably local so if ordered in the afternoon invariably are on my doorstep the next day. -Ebay if I spot a bargain from a trustworthy source. Eg. 2x Oregon 95TXL 64DL £21 delivered last week.

Yep. Not so much about getting the last out of the tired chain as saving a decent one from an early demise.

I can't remember if mine was the multi spline or 7-toothed version. Loads available on the bay etc once you've decided which yours is. I bought a set a few years ago, you'll always need the one you've not got. Just google "Carb adjuster tool". Tacho is pretty essential to do a decent job, or get it running then take it to someone who has one to get it running to spec.

That auto hold does a good job. Now you can mow messages into the grass and film them. Me too. It's been a good year Metsaman: -Back hoe fixed -ankle fixed -didn't set fire to jenny with fuel spill -Mower started 1st time after its winter sleep. Keep up the good work. Makee

Pretty accurate IME. If anything slightly small, so if you are between sizes go up one. (Med=9 L=10 XL=11) Being leather they do give a bit after an hour or so, hence my preferred size are a bit snug at first but soon loosen up. Decent gloves, nice balance of feel vs durability and at £7 a pop good value. Not being a climber I can't offer an opinion on suitability, you'll need to judge for yourself if they provide sufficient grip when wet. HTH

Being new to the .325NK world I ordered a couple of spare chains (95VPX) to go with my new Echo-390. However. VPX is being discontinued and having no stock the supplier sent me Oregon's new 95TXL. I've only used the original supplied chain, (packaged as 95VPX, but without Oregon's traditional drive link oil holes). So who's used the newer chain and what are your impressions? There's a few differences between the two. - VPX is listed as low kickback, TXL isn't although it has bumper drive links, -The oil holes of old have been replaced by a series of stamped lines, with the chain type stamped here too, - the cutters are slightly longer, -Sharpening angle increases from 30 to 35 degrees, -Out of the box TXL has a slight radius to the top plate leading edge, -The gullet is a little deeper -Oregon logo is now laser etched on to the cutter And probably a load of others that I've missed. Here's some photos for you to spot any others

Good call. Husqvarna chains should have "Husqv" stamped into the tie strap as a means to confirm. Running 1/4" chain on a .325/.058 bar would be a clever trick in its own right.

Sounds like a plan. 30 second warm up then let it rip Cheers

It's an Echo 390. I only had a look in the cylinder because I noticed the plug was finger tight whilst checking it over. When I did the close up photo I could see the marks were beneath the honing which eased my concerns. I'll give the cylinder a few of drops of synthetic 2 stroke, expel any excess, and then fire it up. Might give the bore a bit of protection for the first few revolutions! Many thanks for the reply.

Seconded. I used one for a while, best made of the "budget" models IMO (Husky 236, Stihl 170/180) and works nicely with the supplied 14" bar and 3/8 LoPro. Feels robust and durable. Other contenders around the similar budget. Dolmar PS32, tool less tensioner on most models? not my favourite thing but might suit a very ocassional user. Also available in Makita form, something like this "kit" perhaps?

Not easy to photograph through the plug hole! I've a new found respect for gynecologists. Top Photo: shows the top of the exhaust port, marks extend from the upper edge of the port to approximately 15mm below the top of the cylinder. The area of the cylinder visible is no more than 20mm across, so it doesn't look quite so bad in reality. Lower Photo: The closest view I've managed and it appears that the vertical marks lie beneath the cylinder honing. I'm erring towards thinking they are the result of the de-burring process after the ports are milled, but it'd be nice to get an informed opinion. Thanks again:001_smile:

I'll try another photo, it's taken through the plug hole. Being a new saw I don't think it's reasonable to take the exhaust off to investigate if I end up returning it. Thanks for the replies.

Opinions please gents. The photo does exaggerate the scoring slightly. To the eye the striations are bright and just a little deeper than the cylinder honing marks. New saw, never run by me, and no evidence of it being run since the factory*. Having never had a brand new saw, is this normal and the bore will clean up during bedding in? Thanks for any advice. *[zero odour from the fuel tank, oil tank has never been used, just a smidge in the pick up tube, rim & clutch cover have never seen a chain etc].

I've got a nice new 390-ESX to unbox tomorrow . 15" (38cm) bar version, I'm assuming it's NK (95VPX), but I'll enjoy a leisurely read of the manual over breakfast and then get it up and running after the rest of the day's jobs. I've never had a genuinely new saw, so I'm looking forward to it.

The RotaTech chain finder using specs rather than model# works fine for me. Rotatech™ Chains > Search By Chain Type & Size > Eg 3/8 1.5mm 60DL If it's Oregon you're after I've found some 73LPX (3/8 .058), but it was a bit of a faff, something similar to the manual search above would be preferable IMO.: 73LPX072E If you follow the link above and then change the bar length in the drop down menu 16"=60DL 18"=68DL Hope that helps.

Very slightly more arb related [ame= ] [/ame] No chainsaw trousers, unbelievable!

Most jet washers are supplied with one, Nilfisk call theirs a Powerspeed Nozzle. Karcher it's a Dirt Blaster. Virtually all the major brands have their own fittings, so without an adaptor you have to use Karcher accessories with Karcher, Nilfisk with Nilfisk etc. Although Stihls appear to still use the Nilfisk fittings throughout even if they are now making their own washers as an earlier poster stated. I bought a domestic Nilfisk washer last year, having had a number of short lived Karchers. The Nilfisk is lighter but feels better made. I particularly like having an 8m hose compared to the 5m on previous washers, much less moving the washer about. For occasional use (3-4 hours/month) it does the job (vehicles, patios, ride-on deck, gutters) and was sensible money. For domestic units check Argos as they seem to have frequent discounts on Nilfisk. _________________________________________ ps. Don't blast tyres up close with a Turbo/blaster/powerspeed nozzle! You can erode the rubber surprisingly quickly.

He's probably referring to the L bleed adjustment, arrowed in the attached parts diagram. Sometimes these are under a brass cap (like a cylinder block core plug) regular slotted head beneath, o-ring sealed, tapered machine screw. Probably worth a carb clean etc before making adjustments as the cause of the low idle bog hasn't been identified, but it's got autotune so who knows?! HTH

I used Aspen 4 + Stihl HP Ultra for a while, no problems. I switched from Aspen 2 because I didn't like the metallic smell/taste of the exhaust gases, much the same with the Aspen 4+HP mix though. Switched to Stihl MotoMix (which is Alkylate fuel + HP Ultra) and find it much better. "No need to fix when you use MotoMix":biggrin: