BishBashBosh

Yes, assuming it's big enough to warrant notification. There's a subtle but important difference. Serve the s.211 Notice. You should receive an acknowledgement that it's been received, keep it. - If no further communication then you can assume consent has been given after 6 weeks. - If you want to start work before the end of the 6 week period then you require consent to have been given. Effectively that means in writing. In both cases it's worth checking that it's not been TPO'd immediately before work starts as they may use that process to reject the proposed work.

Nooooooo! Advertise the tree as a free tip site for chip... ... soon enough you'll be able to walk up the pile and retrieve the quadcopter.

Good advice IME. An occasional reformat usually solves the problem. As suggested above do buy cards from a reputable source, there are a lot of copy/fake cards about, and decent ones aren't expensive these days.

I really liked the 135 I had. Bar/chain worked well for the available power and it felt well made for the money etc. and was occassionally used well beyond its "design spec" without complaint. However, if you were happy with your 180 and if the rest of it is in decent condition then it's a ready made source of spares and 180s can be had cheaply at the moment.

There's not much in it between the 435 and 135 IMO. (My 135 clearly stated Made in Sweden) the 236 is from elsewhere. I'd keep it simple and choose based on your chain preference, 435 runs NK .325 and 3/8LP on the 135. For trimming and such then I like 3/8LP, smooth cutting and a little less grabby than .325. If I was only cutting logs then 325 would probably win out for me. My 135 was used for topping out some conifers. The only issue I had was starting it when not on the ground, largely owing to knackered shoulders! Bought the "easy-start" recoil assembly to solve that issue, effectively making it a 135e. Expensive for a couple of days starting, but worked well. Took it off the saw when I sold it on.

This section is a sponsored sub-forum for Chainsawbars uk and Sugi, both are run by Rob D Try Chainsawbars.co.uk or SugiHara uk. ...hence the reason for the earlier reply. HTH

Doesn't appear to be any stockists in those area. (Aspen dealer locator) GPS (Global Plant Sales) are a Stihl dealer in Kingsheath, they may stock Motomix. Always worth a call to check availability. HTH

15Nm from the Workshop Manual for the 346xp. [Generally fingertight + 1/16th of a turn is safe and sufficient].

The chainbrake may have been activated by inertia, so there's no need for it to have physically touched anything. Something I do periodically check and one more reason to keep saws properly maintained as you have. Glad the consequences weren't permanent, and thanks for sharing.

You could always empty out and run a couple of tanks of Aspen before storage, cut down on fuel costs but get some of the storage advantages of the Alkylate fuels. It's whatever works for you, if you've not had problems for years then keep on going.

Was referring to the narrow kerf chains, 20LPX is the same guage as the NK 95VPX/TXL but you'd need to check the clearance. Not a problem, you can always change bar if needed for type 21/22, but the NK chains seem to cut so well with these output saws that I'm not sure how much you'd gain by going to full chisel standard kerf?

I'd echo the Dolmar PS-420 or Echo CS-390-ESX suggestions. Being in a similar position to you recently Bunzena I went with the Echo, but there's not much in it. The 390 swung it for me due to: -Slightly lighter -Standard fit Sugihara bar -narrow kerf .325 chain -5 year warranty for consumer use The .325 chains are new to me, only used 3/8 (big and small) before, but I like it. A bit more robust than 3/8LP, but plenty fast enough in the cut on the 390 with a 15" bar IMO, unless you must use full chisel (not available in .325) then I think it's really well suited to saws of this size/output. Forest & Arb supplied mine, it didn't appear to have been run or tuned, not a problem as I've got the appropriate kit to set it up correctly, but might be a consideration for some. Running a saw dry isn't a great idea, it's inducing a lean run condition. Once a year shouldn't be too much of a worry, but using Aspen or MotoMix means you can leave it fuelled and hopefully avoid any fuel issues. It comes down to how much you use and cost. From totally dry mine took 5 pulls to start, and it's an Easy-start/Ergo start job, so extremely easy! HTH

Not quite. I believe it states that 10% of energy used for transport must come from renewable sources by 2020. In reality though you are correct, E10 is being phased in, E5 should be available for some time after that date. I doubt our non-EU membership by then will make any difference, there's been too much investment in biofuels and advanced biofuels for the industry to willingly scale back.

Absolutely agree Little Al. Set it to spec then test for acceleration and performance in the cut, and inspect the plug after a couple of tanks too. My 390 was very lean and would have seriously exceeded the max rpm at WOT, H needed a 1/4 turn ACW (richer) to get to the recommended performance and a bit more for comfort and running in. Accelerated nicely at all settings and torque seems unaffected. Look for one with a 0.5sec refresh rate. I've got an Oppama PET-302R. Only paid about £20 off the bay for it, run against two other tachoes and all gave similar results which is always encouraging. Most of the Stihl/Husky/Echo branded tachoes are rebranded Oppamas.

Yes. My FiL is a fuel consultant and regularly analyses various fuels, finding ethanol free petrol at the pumps in the UK is unlikely. Darrin Turnbull's link comes from BP Australia and is 10 years old, fuel composition differs across markets even if it carries the same brand name. But it does point to Ultimate having been Ethanol-free. UK BP Ultimate (except in the SW) was Ethanol-free. Whether that's still the case I've no idea, fuel retailers regularly change the additive formulation. You could e-mail BP to enquire. In France regular unleaded (up to 5% Ethanol) is labelled SP95, SP95-E10 is the 10% ethanol version. Companies are obliged to tell you if the fuel is E10 owing to compatibility issues with older vehicles. But absence of an E5 label doesn't mean it's ethanol-free.

It's Alkylate fuel + HP Ultra 2 Stroke oil, so whilst there might be small differences it's essentially the same ie Ethanol free, clean burning fuel. I use it in preference to Aspen because I really don't like the smell of Aspen, Motomix is available on the shelf at my local dealer too. Performance is the same for both. Yep. All UK petrol has up to 5% Ethanol (E5), and most has just that, other than the E10 fuels which get a double dose of C2H6O. BP Ultimate (except in the SW) is reputed to be E0, but there's no guarantee as the formulation changes frequently. No point in running Super Unleaded IMO, unless you can confirm it's E0. The higher RON number relates to anti-knocking properties, the calorific value is usually slightly lower than "Regular".

Just pull out starter, hold cord with left hand, now you've got plenty of slack to make it easy. I trimmed my paint brush handle so it fits, the starter handle is a last resort. Maybe I should patent my multi-function debris and cap removal tool? (Thanks for the Sugi "steer", replied on post) Jomoco. Time will tell, I've not got it dirty enough to tell . Better than the flush fit Husky caps I'm more familiar with, and infinitely better than the easy flip monstrosities.

Thanks for the reply R Mac, but was after one to run 95VPX/TXL, ie .325 1.3mm (.050) NK. Thanks for the response though.

A couple of cropped photos to show the filler. The cap is slightly oversize compared to the aperture. Where the opening rises up from the main body of the tank there's no extra mouldings/joins/corners etc to hold onto crud. It should be pretty easy to wipe debris off before opening. I keep a cutdown paint brush "tethered" to my fuel can for getting crud out of places I don't want it. The starter handle fits between the two spigots on both fillers to help unscrew them if needed.

Lovely piece of timber, and looks like a nice clean cut too. [When burying a body it's best to make sure you don't leave a gloved hand sticking out.]

As R Mac states above I can't see how you'd get those wear patterns. Unless the chain's been fitted the wrong way around at some point? No wear on the sprocket, but the DL's are worn off, although not all of them. Not only are the cutters different lengths but some appear to be a very odd shape, the rear of the top plate being angled. A mystery. I'd check the bar's nose sprocket rotates, the rails are straight, and then try another chain ensuring that it's properly tensioned and getting plenty of oil. Stop frequently to check the tension and inspect for any wear.

Any 15" bars for an Echo 390? Light Type Pro or Pro Lam, D176 I believe. I did look on the Sugi website, but thought I'd ask in case all the new stock hasn't been added yet. Living in hope...

Sparrowhawk selecting its meal...

Just went and got my 135 out of the shed to check. Original Husqvarna 14" bar on mine, which is what 95+% of these saws are sold with. Spud's quite correct, they run 3/8LP (LoPro) Pitch, 1.3mm (0.050") guage. How to check? The bar & chain markings will tell you all. Mine reads 578 18 66-52 9G ...................................................................,,,,,..................................... 14 91 The 52 on the top line is number of drive links. 14 91 is the length in inches (14) and Oregon chain type (91 = 3/8LP, 1.3mm guage) Husky chain type is stamped into the drive link. you'll need to slacken it off and pull it from the bar to check. 37 is Husky's designator for Oregon 91PX (3/8LP, 1.3mm guage, low kickback) 36 = the older Oregon 91VG (same pitch/guage as above) The important bit is to check the pitch/guage of the bar match the chain. 91 on the bar and 37 on the chain or 91 if it's an Oregon replacement chain. If that all matches next check the sprocket. Has the chain been run very slack? I did have one occasion when I failed to tighten the single bar nut enough, the chain crept loose. Running it like that for long would possibly result in excessive drive link wear, although you'd probably expect to see some bar wear as well from chain slap, as you're an experienced user I excluded this, but always worth asking? HTH

European specification carburettor tuning data from Echo (2015 issue), pdf attached. Covers all their 2 stroke machines. Recommended tuning procedure including TAS, L&H starting positions, type of limiter caps (where fitted), tool type for carb adjustment, rpm ranges rather than just the single figure from the manual etc. Echo Carb Adjustment Table Euro spec.pdf