BishBashBosh

Flat nozzle for pretty much everything. I ignored the Vac on mine for ages, but for certain jobs it's really handy. Leaves and hedge clippings from planted gravel borders, you can spend ages chasing them around with the blower, or suck'n'collect.

OKO for me , never had a problem with it. Lots of hawthorn in my garden so the ride on was getting punctures every couple of weeks. I used 2/3's of the recommended amount of OKO, and 7 years later I've yet to have another puncture. I used the off road version. The only inconvenience is when giving the tyres their twice yearly pump up. You need to have the valve at the top of the tyre to stop any sealant gungeing the valve, and ideally leave it in that position for a while before topping them up. Bit of a pain, but twice a year's not too bad.

Heading South... Large flocks of Swallows and House Martins on the way south over the last week. There's a Silver Birch in the garden which seems to be a favourite place to have a rest and quick preen before resuming their journey, so took a few snaps. Here's one of the many.

They do get into everything. My kitchen door is open most of the summer and found one recently fledged Wren in my kitchen last week .

Another brood of Wrens fledged this morning. Amusing little birds, clearly just out of the nest and aviation is a bit of a struggle for them! Rain came and curtained their antics. This one took refuge in a Laurel. You can make out the juvenile gape and a few remaining downy feathers.

Most of the suggestions so far are significantly over budget new. Secondhand is an option but obviously comes with risks. Spud here on the forum is the saw repair wizard and iirc occassionally has 2nd hand saws available which takes most of the risk out of that option. Otherwise a quality 40cc saw(2.5-3 HP) with 15" bar is easily up to occassional felling and well suited to dealing with stuff on the ground up to 2 feet in diameter, and a bit more. Just learn how to sharpen a chain properly if you can't already. Here's a couple on budget: -Dolmar 420sc , or the Makita equivalent same saw, different colour ( EA4300 £330 ) Contact Shavey re Dolmar. -Echo CS-390esx, £340 .

BM2M-0J37-A Bar weighs 657 g. OEM bar 623 g (10T nose sprocket). The Echo supplied NK bar is 3.8mm across the rails against 4.2mm for the Sugihara branded laminate, I don't have any standard 325 bars any longer to see how that compares, but probably explains the slight weight difference. Thanks for the speedy service.

Photos disappeared with the forum update, so re posted here.

Many thanks for the speedy response Rob, I'll get an order in. Re the weight, all the .325 Pro Lam bars show the same weight (940g) irrespective of length or gauge, looks kooky to me. The 15" solid 1.5mm gauge shows only 775g. I'll weigh it when it arrives and let you know, the only difference from the OEM bar is 11T vs 10T nose sprocket, so should be virtually the same. Thanks again. ATB Nick

Hi Rob. Sugi Bar query for Echo 390ESX: Following the links on the Sugiharabarsuk website> 4 Echo then > 390ESX,CS420,CS501 gives me the available options and states that Sugi BM3 is equivalent to Oregon K041. The OEM bar mount doesn't look like a K041 mount? The bar images on those pages also look like my OEM bar (pic below) with separate oiler hole and oval bar tensioner holes, not K041, (more like D176?). Selecting the 15" Pro Lam .325 .050 64DL bar adds a bit more confusion:confused1:. The mount looks good, description states its for 95TXL ie narrow kerf and the "0" in the Sugi-code is for .050 Gauge chain, exactly what I'm after. However, all the matching products shown are Type 21 (.058 gauge)... the weight is wrong too 940g, my 15" = 623g. In short, I'm after a bar to use with my 95TXL 64DL chains on my 390ESX is BM2M-0J37 the answer? Please help:confused1:

Couple of quotes from Will Heal below. I've got the 390-esx, same filter type. Fine dust accumulates around the carb and filter, but not inside it. I'm fairly careful when cleaning around the intake, choke on, then use a soft paint brush to clean most of the crud off before removing the filter for a proper clean. Very light smear of oil between the two halves of the filter and on the air intake where the filter fits on, make sure its pushed fully home, refit the top cover.

Nearly a year of ownership, so a few observations: +Generally well made light weight saw with good balance which is well suited to the 15" .325 NK set up it comes with. +Surprising grunt for a 40cc saw which didn't feel undergunned when felling and snedding some decent sized willows (20" at the felling cut). +Starts easily hot or cold, fairly frugal on fuel. +Chain tension, oiler adjustments are accessible. (Oiler was set to max out of the box, chain would have been running dry for the last 1/3 tank of fuel for those who don't check such things). -From new it was tuned mighty lean, the tacho was still climbing hard through 14200 rpm when I gave up that little test, book max rpm is 13500. -Replacement bar. Finding a quality 15" .325 1.3mm NK bar has me beaten! Guess I'm going to have to go via my dealer/Echo. -Exhaust issues. As GregM found... I had exactly the same problem. After a few hours of use the chainbrake handle was significantly melted (top photo below). Local dealer was excellent and chainbrake handle replaced, so I then tested it to see if it could have been operator error or not. Cutting biscuits off a 6" log with no obstructions near the exhaust the same melting started again. The saw was replaced without question. As GregM said, it's not hard to see why this happens, the exhaust deflector just isn't big enough. In the 2nd photo below with the spark arrestor removed you can see the exhaust path is in line with the chainbrake handle, and the pattern of melting mirrors the exhaust exit. I've seen two other 390's with some melting of the brake, and that's out of a total of four, so the tolerance of exhaust path and handle appears to be too close. Did the new saw do the same? I didn't give it the chance to, and "fabricated" a small extension to the gas deflector and it's been faultless even with the dawgs stuck into some ivy covered bar length wood and running at full chat. Problems like that shouldn't happen, but the dealer response was excellent, and with a simple fix the problem's gone. Echo have known about this for a while so hopefully they'll add that extra 10mm to the deflector! Other than that the saw's been great, light, enough grunt and easy to use for extended periods. HTH

The obvious one is the guide for the filing angle, the other parallel ones act as wear limit/service life markers.

Nearly a year of using 95TXL and the verdict is... I like it. Compared to its predecessor (95VPX): -Smoother cutting straight from the box -Stretches significantly less -Drive links seem to show less wear Durability has been excellent too.

Can't quite make it out from the photo, but is it now hung up? The Two trees in the mid distance appear to be leaning compared with those around them. If so the main stem may jump towards the side you were on when making the bore cut when you do release it, possibly worth making your felling cut from the other side and/or rigging the stem to give some protection. Your not short of anchor points. A ratchet strap or two above your original cuts seems like a sensible precaution too. I'm only a home gamer, but have cut plenty of heavy leaning crack willows so tend to take as many precautions as possible as I'm not against the clock. The size of yours is the trickiest IMO, as others have said, right idea but the bore cut doesn't leave a lot of holding wood and can initiate movement. Straight in from the back with a faster saw might have been better...easy to say after the event. The stuck bar may be trashed, so don't let retrieving it affect the type of cut you decide on. Assume it's a right off and go for the best option, if it survives then that's a bonus. HTH

Is The Donald doing your arithmetic! 1450 + 2017= 3467 ...Let's put it down to the Raki.

Some YouTubery here that may give you a better idea of what goes where etc. He only opens the exhaust outlet a touch, but it's easier to take more off than put it back (IME). And a forum thread with photos of another way to go. See post #24 http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/chainsaws/74661-stihl-ms150-3.html Make sure any swarf is thoroughly cleaned out of the exhaust before reassembly, and check the state of tune to make sure she doesn't run lean now that it can breath better.

14" and 3/8LP is about the max for these saws imo. Shortening the new chains to fit the existing 14" bar would be a sensible solution, it doesn't appear to have much wear. Assuming the vendor will take the bar back now it's been dragged across the concrete! The old chain looks like 91VG (ultra safety chain!), newer ones (91VX?) should outperform the VG too. Won't be 3/8LP, so the OP would also need a new sprocket. Nice offer though.

As you're walking in/out I'll assume you won't be carrying climbing gear? So as above, CS-281WES, comes with an appropriate size bar too. Tanaka TCS 33EDP has a bit more power and comes in at 3.7kg. Also look at the battery saws, Husky 120i 3kg book figure (does that include battery?). If you're only cutting small quantities then a Silky or Samurai will save you plenty of weight.

As said above 2.4 won't deal with brambles for more than a few seconds before snapping. Although it's my preferred line for grass, reeds and most soft "stuff". Fitting increasingly large diameter cord will eventually result in the bent shaft drive cable snapping rather than the trimmer line. Best solution... get a goat.

You can cover a lot of bases with a T-handle 1/4" bit holder and bit set. My T-handle is the most used hand tool I own, Wiha dual drive, means you can get some torque on when needed. Wiha T-Handle Magnetic Bit Holder ¼" | Screwdrivers & Hex Keys | Screwfix.com £15 seems expensive for a "handle" but you'll use it all the time and it'll last forever. A cheap bit set covers most of your "screwing" needs. These do the job [ame=https://www.amazon.co.uk/100Pc-Comprehensive-Security-SD244-Toolzone/dp/B01HR4GITI/ref=pd_day0_60_7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YP7J8PJBSWQXA4XX5X43]100Pc Comprehensive Security Bit Set SD244 by Toolzone: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools[/ame] ...yep they're only chinese jobs, but fine for most low torque fasteners. Covers Torx up to T40, metric Hex etc. The 1/4" F to M adapter means you can use it as a nut spinner with some 1/4" sockets, very handy, and the labelled case makes finding the right bit easy. Halfords socket sets do the job. I've had mine for 20 years, used & abused but still going strong. Vice. Best look on Gumtree/boot sales as decent ones are expensive but can be picked up for a few quid when people have a clear out. Never find the right Hex key amongst that heap of keys? Bondhus Gorilla grip. Fold out hex keys, various size mixes. I use the metric imperial version [ame=https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bondhus-12550-12-Pc-Fold-Up-1-5-5Mm/dp/B00EBZW9F4/ref=pd_sbs_60_6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=DZ537VYWQZFPTEQTAWKK]Bondhus 12550 12-Pc. Fold-Up Hex Key Set, Metric, 5/64-5/32", 1.5-5Mm: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools[/ame] If I've not got the correct T handle hex to hand.

Should corner beautifully with all that downforce.

First Swift seen yesterday.

From fully seated, open each H 1.5 L 4.0 (yes four, not a typo) Those are the starting positions from the Stihl Carb Manual, here's a link to the pdf. http://thebakeliteradio.com/sawspares.com/stihl%20carburetor%20manual.pdf I've only ever tuned with a tacho, if you get it running then perhaps get your local service guy to give it a test'n'tweak for a few quid?

Chamfer Chisel is an Oregon trade mark, and refers to the shoulder of the cutter. It's a variation on the semi-chisel chain type. "Normal" semi chisel chain has a radius on the corner of the cutter, Chamfer Chisel has a 45 degree angle. Supposed benefits over full chisel (sharp angular corner) are reduced kickback and stay sharp longer in dirty wood, whilst being slightly slower cutting. IME the differences are marginal for those who know how to sharpen a chain and do it regularly. https://www.ricambix.com/images/catene/chamfer-chisel-oregon.jpg