SbTVF

It's good for anything down to about 4" diameter. Anything smaller and even if you get it right under it it still moves as the saw comes down. I think it's the curve of the end of the infeed belt that's allowing movement to be honest though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As with any chainsaw, if you keep the chain sharp and the bar dressed up and free from burrs on the cutting side it'll very rarely jam unless the log moves. Tajfun and other brands have log clamps to minimise this occurrence also. I can't possibly see how circular blades are cheaper in the long run that chains, even if I bought 20 chains and 10 bars it'd still be cheaper than a new circular saw. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

North east we'd pay up to £48 per ton if it's all 6-16". Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As far as I'm aware you get 60cube stacked in a 40ft container. So around 22,000 cube!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Plenty of stove fitters round our way are building inglenooks on the outside wall and knocking through then using a double lined flue up the external wall! Looks good and takes up no extra space in the house. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nope just a manual winch! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

We're at the end of our first full year having sold out first bags in October 2015. Only got into firewood by accident really as we had a chip boiler fitted to modernise and heat our pig unit and houses more efficiently. We knew we couldn't get all the sheds hooked up straight away so also put in a room heater for the workshop too. We then realised how much timber gear we'd need to make better use of the available RHI rather than buying in chip. So timber grab for the excavator and 1m PTO splitter later we decided we'd spread the cost of that and sell some firewood too, utilising our own 10 acres of woodland thinnings and bought in roundwood we set off with a simple operation. Using the mostly underused workshop heater we built a small basic kiln that does an ok job but is slow. I then had a wood burner fitted to my new house and got chatting with the fitters, who this spring opened their own store. They've gone from nothing to the busiest stove supplier in the area in a matter of weeks and recommend me to all of their customers. I was soon inundated with orders and went from 50 cube all last season to 40 cube a month at the moment. Sold my car to buy a Tajfun 400 and now having to build a bigger kiln to keep up with the demand! We luckily already had tractors and a 360 for handling Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Manual swing lift for £150 off eBay. Cheapest way you'll do it and easy unloading at the other end. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If it's 10% on the outside and 30% inside its probably averaging less than 20% across the whole log anyway. So of course it burns well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks eddie, I guess that about covers it all! Spot on! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As the title says, are there any alternative ways to piping up a 2nd auxiliary line on the tb175 for a rotator? I've heard mention of putting a diverter on the bucket ram, is that feasible? Would certainly give me proportional control of it rather than just the remaining buttons on the joystick to connect to potentially. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

In most cases it's a floating raised floor for drying grain on so hot air will rise out of holes through it, through the piles of logs. None of the air will be recirculated and therefore is wasted. The efficient way to dry logs is by recirculating air until it has reached peak air humidity and then exhausting it as air can only pick up so much moisture from something if it only passes by it once. They probably end up with patches of inconsistently dry logs too, instead of full batches of logs all dried to the same moisture content like they should be when done properly. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok fair enough, I get you. You're only talking 2-4pence per kWh difference off the big systems. We're on 8p with our 150kw boiler. Even on lower payments, economies of scale kicks in for sure when you're talking 500kw plus. Temperature is important for getting it under 20% moisture. Ash and oak in particular are a pain to dry to the core without a lot of heat in my experience. Though too much and they can case harden! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My dads physio says the same. If you can manage without, do it. You'll be stronger in the long term as long as you stretch properly. You become dependant on them otherwise. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not true. There are broiler producers around here with 1MW boilers heating their chicken houses raking in 100k in RHI payments. The boilers are very expensive and they have to buy equal capacity oil/gas boilers as a backup system in most cases. Our nearby farm on this is using 1000+ ton of softwood a year! Also no way is a false floor drying system More efficient for drying logs than a proper kiln. You'll never get the temperature required to kill off the bugs etc that is part of the aim of kilning. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Why always miles away from us !!!?!?? [emoji853] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh right. How do I get hold of them? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's from Rotatech. I can't imagine they make many to be honest hence the price. Special order type thing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Must be on a 3-400kw boiler or similar for that amount? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sorry for the slow post in my findings but I've finally got round to giving both narrow Kerf chains a good try and was able to compare them to full chisel standard kerf on our 550xp. All fresh out the box it was easy to see a difference over the standard kerf chain straightaway, even with the old style narrow. It absolutely flew through some solid old dead elm and was fantastic in freshly felled sycamore. Particularly for de-limbing. I can't say in my less experienced hands I could feel any huge discernible differences between the two narrow kerfs but time will tell as to which product I buy in the future with regards to overall longevity, ease of sharpening and so on. The sugi hara bar is also excellent! I appreciate the opportunity to try it out Rob. Thank you very much. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They need to last 5 times longer then! I'll get a solid Sugi-hara if we find it wears too quickly. I plan on maintaining it as well as I can either way. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do the cannon bars last significantly longer? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

20t so far. Should have been a lot more but I've been too busy with land work and harvest to get any more done. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh right. Not had any issue with the standard bar yet. Seems absolutely fine to us. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Only got the standard pro-lite 17" bar on ours. Why'd you go to a 18" like? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk