Wendelspanswick
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Everything posted by Wendelspanswick
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I was last into the tea hut, every one else is sipping their tea, noses buried in their newspapers, as I am waiting for the kettle to boil I see a shadow in the half empty milk bottle, thinking it's the foil cap I swirled the bottle only to see a very drowned mouse through the glass. When I pointed this out you can imagine the spitting/ spluttering and even retching as they realised!
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Working out the logistics of adding a tilting bed to my mill for feather edge and it occurred to me what is the advantages of using feather edge over parallel boards? You get a marginal increase in the volume of boards from a butt but I can't think of any other benefits?
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But caravans have needed an IVA since October 2014.
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Repairing the building? Looks more like 'Triggers broom'!
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What did Chris use for the side rails on the trailer, the drawings spec. 2" x 6" (50 x 150mm) box but that's not a size you can get in the UK so I was planning to double up with 2 lots of 50 x 75mm, one on top of the other and stich welding. Also be aware that all new trailers used on the road need type approval now.
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Thanks for rotating the pictures, it drives me nuts when they get inserted upside down.
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You can't price a job by trying to guess what the customer is willing to pay for the finished item, you will end up working for peanuts or worse, making a loss. Estimate the time it will take you, multiply that by an hourly rate you are happy with and then add on costs for materials.
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And in situ...
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Here is a pic of my mill in its box...
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Be careful when you set the wheels, I had a slight mishap that could have been a lot worse. The manual says something along the lines of tension the blade to xx, back off the tension lever one full turn, track the blade, and then put the full xx tension back on and then rotate the wheels by hand, this I did and the blade sprung off the front of the wheels catching me on my forearm and the bridge of my nose puncturing both. The worrying thing is that the puncture on my nose could easily have been my eye! In the end the only way I could get the blade to stay on at full tension was to track it at full tension which makes more sense logically then the method in the manual.
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I don't mind if the timber goes silver/grey, not keen on the dark colour (or stink) of creosote. We have about 8 acres of woodland, 90% is Ash with the rest made up of Sycamores, ancient Beech trees (with TPO'S), Birch and the odd Oak, Cherry and Holly. I need to find enough timber to clad 140m2.
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Ideally I could do with swapping some of my Ash butts with some WRC/Oak/Sweet Chestnut/Larch butts in the Somerset area.
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I was thinking of something that wouldn't affect the colour of the timber too much and stink to high heaven!
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Out of interest any idea what pressures and duration they use to treat timber and what chemicals they use?
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Anyone have any info on pressure treating hardwoods? The reason I ask is I am looking to clad the outside of a barn I am building and I have an abundance of Ash I could mill and use but it's not durable.
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Not a Waddington or a Sedgwick but I have a SCM 16" planer thicknesser that I can't fault. 5.5KW motor with 2 in feed speeds on the thicknesser, cast iron in/out feed tables that are each 1200mm long and a 3 blade block.
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The BGS (British Geological Survey) website is really useful in instances like this, have a look at the Geological map as well as the Bore Hole Records. Geology of Britain viewer | British Geological Survey (BGS)
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Restocking / Underplanting Western Red Cedar.
Wendelspanswick replied to porangi's topic in Forestry and Woodland management
Are you in Somerset? -
Shorting the battery to earth shouldn't affect any fuses unless the other end of the bonnet was touching something it shouldn't. I would check the battery condition and make sure the terminals are clean as well as the other end of the earth strap. John Hughes (my middle initial is a T though!).
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I made ash worktops for our old house and although it looked good to start with we had awful problems with the area round the sink going black with mould. The tops were given several coats of Danish oil but if I was to do it again I would use something more durable.
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I'm building a 2 storey barn at the moment, ground floor in traditional blockwork and the top storey is timber framed. Pressure treated timber for the framing is relatively cheap and in my option not worth trying to mill yourself but where you can save is milling the cladding, shingles, flooring and joinery timber, especially if you have a band mill. Not sure I would want to try it with a chainsaw mill though.
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How do the blade guides work on a double cut saw, what stops the cutting pressure pushing the blade off the wheel?
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Timberyard.co.uk: sustainable locally grown timber for sale in London Its a collective set up in London to ensure that trees get used to their full function.
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Some decent fabrication there.
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DBH (diameter at breast height measurement
Wendelspanswick replied to Lazurus's topic in General chat
Is this to determine whether you need a felling licence?
