maybelateron

I would rate this as being of lower importance myself. Most customers will know and Oak as an Oak, not Quercus Robur etc. I am not saying there is anything wrong with knowing the Latin names, just that there are far more useful things.

I have often thought of investing in a small processor, but can't convince myself it is worth it for our domestic arb waste. We use a lot of logs ourselves and sell the rest. When do you ever see a video of a processor with awkward gnarly timber going through it. We use a venom 22ton splitter (can be horizontal or vertical) and split rings and 20 inch lengths. The 20 inch lengths then get sawn using the pto sawbench. I think this is about the most efficient way we can manage to process timber of the sort we bring in from domestic work.

I have been trading for 20 years, running a small tree surgery firm, doing 90 per cent domestic work. We do sell logs, but domestic arb waste is much more labour intensive to process due to the inconsiderate trees having gnarly crotches, unlike their woodland/forest cousins who just play reach for the sky. I only sell unseasoned logs, and have for years only delivered a minimum load size of 2 cubic metres, as any less is not worthwhile for me. In more recent times we just put any really awkward bits to one side, then take a load of them to a place along the road who put it through their big Heizohack chipper for biomass. I regard our firewood part of the business as something to do when the weather is too bad to be on site, rather than a profit earner in its own right. I manage to sell all of my deciduous woodchip as garden mulch/chicken run cover etc, and this is more worthwhile than the logs. I sell it at £23 per cubic metre +/- delivery depending on load size and distance.

Does your derg bite? That was one of the best from Peter Sellers. Sorry to go off thread!

Oh, I get it now vicar. Said Alice!

I'm a bit dim here - still haven't got it. Please explain, someone.

We have two Clearview stoves, had them since 2001. Both came with a simple magnetic thermometer, see photo.

I have used Airstreams for ages now, and I have very wide feet. After a couple of days the boots are really comfortable for me. Get a year or a little more from them, always the wear on sole that determines when to change. More recently I keep the older pair for using if I am not climbing and will be on concrete tarmac a lot - why wear out the new ones when dragging etc. If I am climbing or working mainly on grass then I use the new ones.

I have a Jensen A540 turntable, and a Forst TR6. While the Jensen wins the competition for pulling in awkward timber, but not by a massive margin, Forst win for much better parts availability and service.

I have used the shaded visor on my Petzl vertex lid. Great until scratched, or (as happened sooner) got wet with sweat from my head and dust stuck to it.

So very true. It frustrates me that too many of us underprice jobs - the customers need to appreciate the costs we face buying and running the decent kit that enables us to do the job "so quickly". Still, as I have plenty of work booked in, I am not going to be underquoting. Most firms around me seems pretty busy, so why underquote at all?

Unless your daily/hourly rates are high enough to cover repairs/reinvestment

Agreed. Preceded by cleaning back the rust with a power wire brush, either on small angle grinder or in drill chuck. Also ensure metal is utterly dry before application. Suggest heat the area with fan heater etc - at this time of year you will see a small layer of moisture become apparent as it dries off.

Very true indeed. That's why we don't have any potholes - they are all sinkholes.

A good two inches has settled. Was going to do small local Copper Beech reduction today, as just having to to the climbing work when the weather lets us. Book + kettle is now the plan. Sounds like Stoke on Trent Council got caught out - no gritting, and A500 + A50 problems with accidents/gridlock.

I have used Petz helmets for ages. I always keep the chin strap done up when climbing or off the ground in any way. In fact I keep the strap done up on the ground, as I can't stand if flapping about.

That'll be a soft wood I guess

I imagine that is the case, if you have the time/patience. Having a full chisel chain makes a big difference IMO. In terms of getting the job done up in the tree, MS160T good for pruning and early stage of dismantles, but once into 10 - 12 inch timber I use the 201T, having used the 160T or Echo 2511T earlier in the job.

I have a MS160T and more recently a MSA220. The 220 really is excellent, a lot more cutting ability than the 160T. I have felled a 9-10. inch Ash with it, you just have to feed it through patiently, rather than push it in like with the MS261 or bigger. Mainly bought the MSA220 for our early morning starts in residential areas, but we all love it and it is excellent for a quick cut into something too big for the chipper, saves using a petrol saw that isn't going to reach operating temperature on intermittent use.

Pleased to hear it, happy for you. Let us know how it goes.

There is a new form of Ecstacy that has recently come out. Apparently it was developed by a cartel's lab in Sheffield. The difference is that you don't swallow it, but place it just inside your mouth holding it against your cheek. It is said to give a faster absorption rate and higher blood levels with an "enhanced effect". It is also know as eeh by gum.

If the crown does not actually extend as far as the boundary line there are unlikely to be any major roots at the boundary. There will be lots of small/very small roots around the boundary, but I would be surprised if an arboricultural report expressed any major concerns. You say the tree is about 85ft tall, and (presumably the trunk) is within 20 ft of the boundary. If the crown does not reach the boundary that would suggest a tree that is twice as tall as it is wide. Are there other trees close to and around it? Do you think perhaps it is rather less than 85ft tall? Photos may be useful.

Have you considered the Forst petrol engined ones? More power than the 25hp diesel.

I have no doubt it would be fine. The power of the 3.2 is plenty. What is far more important in my experience off road than auto versus manual is the tyres you are running. All terrains on my Disco 2 (auto) cope fine on wet grass with a heavy trailer. When I bought it, it had so call M+S tyres on. After a white knuckle drive home pulling a 500kg empty trailer on snow I changed to the all terrains (had them on previous disco) and have pulled out numerous vehicle stick in snow. In the 90's I had a Land Rover 110 that came with Cross Plies fitted, Avon Rangers they were, with good tread - I could not get up a side street and the loaded milk float did! Changed to radial mud terrains and never looked back.

I am on my second Disco 2, both auto, which I use for towing 3.5 ton regularly. I just find auto easier for slow speed shunting of trailers, especially on slopes, so avoiding clutch wear. Also nice n lazy if tired and sitting in tedious traffic queues. I think it boils down to personal preference more than any specific pros and cons. Our Iveco Daily 3.5 ton tipper would be better as auto as the clutch is not beefy enough for hillstarts/reverses when laden. I gather Transits are much the same, whereas a mate's Izuzu is great with respect to clutch/hillstarts. I have driven a 57 reg ranger 2.5 and the clutch/low down torque was great on that, so I guess it is just a matter of preference for you if you are sticking with Rangers. General rule I have found is that ask anyone who has an auto and they will say they love it.