GA Groundcare

Engine unit on the deck. Service, cleaning and inspections to be carried out. Flywheel on the bench, front bearing had to be cut off. Flywheel will be checked over, repainted black, fitted with genuine new blades and bearings.

We refurbish quite a few GreenMech wood chippers. We thought it would be interesting to document the work being carried out on this machine and its forthcoming journey (mainly with pictures). A 2015 Arborist 19-28 with in the region of 900 hours on the clock. Washed off and in our yard awaiting strip down. It was in a working condition. Isuzu 50hp engine in good health. Infeed hopper off, flywheel upper housing off, discharge chute off, engine panels off. Welder out aiding some snapped off bolts... Engine out, flywheel out, hydraulics and feed rollers removed. Just down to a rolling chassis. Forklift drafted in, axle off. A frame pins currently seized in. A frame removed and on its way for a wash. Quick pressure wash off of panel work before everything being dipped, shot blasted and powder coated in original GreenMech green (RAL 6018)

Who makes the box?

We use traffic film remover / truck wash and it gets it off no problem. Don't let it dry though.

Don't believe so.

Had this fault on our 2017 Transit earlier this year. It was the EGR valve at fault.

We have a nice 2017 TP215 50hp 8.5" chipper with 560 hours for sale at £13,995 + VAT.

Run a compression test first. From memory the minimal service limit is 327psi. You really want 350-400 though. Smoking / loosing power sounds more fuel related? Have you cleaned the tank out and replaced the filters? It is unusual for a Kubota engine needing a rebuild to have those symptoms.

The original V1505 is 34/35hp. The latest V1505 "tier 5" engines are detuned to 25/26hp to meet new emission regulations. The reduced hp is only adjusted back on the fuel pump. V1505-T (turbo) engines should all be 45hp. We have rebuilt several Kubota engines but usually not for chargeable customers, doing it at internal costs on a part exchange machine we can rebuild engines cheaper than the cost of a new replacement. However by the time you invoice 2 days labour, cost of all the piston rings, gaskets, bearing shells, plus skimming, crank grind etc if required you are up to the cost of a new engine. And with a new engine comes new injection pump. starter, alternator, turbo etc. Call Hurley Engines in Bath. They are a Kubota engine dealer and should be able to supply. If the lead time is months then a rebuilt may have to be the option!

Speak with Bill Johnson at TH White, they are "Jensen UK" Mobile: 07850 384530 Email: [email protected]

Not those ones. But we do have a used Arb 130 & used Arb 150 in stock though which came in px this month. Plus a used 15-23, new Evo 165D and new Arb 130.

The screen will come up with Alt, or oil (oil pressure) if the engine cuts out through something like fuel starvation. The screen doesn't technically know the engine has stopped running but registers a lack of charging voltage or lack of oil pressure hence the codes. We have the parts on the shelf should you need them.

Fair play, would be good to hear how you get on with it once you get it!

I do agree with what you are saying, however in those "business owners who need to move machinery, price jobs, go off-road etc" situations wouldn't you go Disco 5 Commercial?

Tree Management in Glos had one they were looking to sell recently.

Grenadier was supposed to be a British built work truck for the people at an economical price. It is now being built abroad and allegedly starts at 48k. Base spec jap pick ups for the farmer are half the price. Who is the Grenadier aimed at? We would love a new hard top 90 for shunting heavy tracked chippers about the country, it would do the job of our 2.4 Puma 90 perfectly. Maybe one day...

The idea of the Grenadier was great but the reality unfortunately couldn't be further from their starting plan. Did they discover why LR pulled the plug on that market...

We are in Wiltshire.

We have a 2018 Arborist 130 coming in next week at that money.

Yes you could. When you sharpen the blades and they get smaller you need to be able to drop the anvil down to compensate. If they were not able to touch your blade gap would just get bigger post blade grind.

This is a photo of a CS100 drum. The blades are fixed by 6 screws. The anvil is held in by 5 screws. The drum housing has slotted holes for where the anvil fixes meaning the anvil is adjustable up and down. You can use a credit card to go between the blade and the anvil, adjusting the anvil down so the gap between the two is a credit card width.. Other makes maybe slightly different but will all share the common principle.

In our machine if you like? You can use a credit card to set the gap between the blade and the anvil, like a DIY feeler gauge. Usually on the gravity feed machines the cutter blade is fixed and the anvil is adjustable and want to be around 1mm clearance. Although double check your ops manual Do one blade / anvil gap, rotate the drum 180 degrees and check the other blade too.

Adjust it inside the white box. See if it makes a difference. I think it’s blue in colour and 0-9 on the potentiometer from memory.

Has it always done this in your ownership? The kickback of the rollers is adjustable inside the white RDS box.

Ok. What are the issues Mick ?