roys
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Everything posted by roys
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Was hoping a good dose of Danish oil wood protect it. Mmmmm
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Split my time between Central Scotland and SW Scotland
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I’m in the opposite situation, I have seat ends that need shot blasted and powder coated but I have loads of Iroko slats. If only you were closer we could swop.
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She is certainly game, I did cringe at a couple of bits, for example when she let the motor rotor smack down onto the stator laminates and then dragged the rotor out instead of lifting it out.
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I have a shed very similar. I built mine of the ground by postcreting in a load of 4x4 posts linked with timber to act as bearers and then built the shed from that. As above I put down a sarking floor first then a membrane then battens with insulation in between then fitted their supplied floor. Outside I didn’t add a gutter but I dug a trench round it put in a perforated drainage pipe and backfilled with pea gravel. Been up best part of 10 years now the only problem I can see is the t&g roofing boards are a bit wavy.
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Yip as feared it is the stud to crankcase that is at fault. Good shout, will need to look them up either that or rattle a couple up on the lathe.
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Saw this bench table last year and thought it looked a fairly simple but effective design so took a pic of it as I might have been asked to make one, turns out I didn’t get asked.
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Cheers Ratman, as soon as it lands on my bench I will post up a pic or two.
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Ta for the reply but not sure what you mean Dan. He says the saw runs sweet, just can’t tighten the bar down.
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Bit of advise please, trying to guess a solution before I see the chainsaw (Stihl MS250) my mate stopped me when I was walking my dog tonight and asked if I could look at his chainsaw, says he can’t tighten the bar nuts as it just slips. without looking at it I am guessing that maybe : the nuts are stripped the studs are stripped or the chassis nut inserts are stripped. If the chassis nut inserts are stripped what are my options, can the inserts be replaced, do the old ones need drilled out? Any thoughts gratefully received, cheers
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As much as I like whisky I find that Smidge works a treat to stop the midges from biting, I find they don’t stop landing on you but they don’t appear to bite.
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Had both my shoulders operated on 3 years apart, before the operations I had injections in both, one of the injections did offer temporary pain relief which was fab but the pain came back hence the op. The injection in the other shoulder made no difference hence op on that one. I had gone through the physio sessions before hand but they were never going to work n my case.
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Aww J heart goes out to you, our little 4 legged family members have a special place in our life.
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That looks ace.
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Begginer at Wooden Crafts- best types of wood to use
roys replied to Jzarty's topic in Woodcraft Forum
Where in Scotland roughly are you. -
You’ll need to learn to sharpen your chains otherwise it will get very expensive if you get a new one every time it blunts. Plus they do need regular tickles with the file. I usually sharpen mine every tank or two of fuel. I only use a chainsaw for about 4 hours per week so I’m sure the professionals on here will give the exact timings on that, I guess a lot depends on what you are cutting and if it accidentally hits dirt, stones, wire or nails. i bought a chainsaw manual guide/ jig on here from one of the site sponsor, Rob at chainsaw bars I use that weekly to keep any angle inaccuracies from creeping in. Only used a wood grenade once found it to slow, if it is that knarly that I can’t split it with the maul (which is rare) it either gets chainsawed or if it is small enough it just goes in the woodburner as a whole piece once it has dried of course.
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Just the job
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Begginer at Wooden Crafts- best types of wood to use
roys replied to Jzarty's topic in Woodcraft Forum
Where are you about roughly in the country, if you are near me I will drop you off a few branches of sycamore, as said above good wood to work with, often used for making wooden spoons. -
Yip definitely put a divider in, if you look at mine on the 2nd page of this thread you will see the 8ft pallet on the bottom with one pallet for each end and one pallet in the middle to split it into two, this allows for easier stacking and to split it into two distinct processed batches time wise. There is also a couple of bracers right across the back on this setup, when I build them to be free standing and not against a wall they have another pallet as a back.
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Just about to say the same thing re getting a splitting maul, as you use Screwfix the code number for it is 87268.
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Processed some soft wood and stacked in a simple pallet store last week, looking to be burning it at end of year.
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Sounds like your spark went about this the right way and it’s good the entire cable is changed. Cheers for letting us know the outcome.
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Hopefully all will be revealed when we get the pic of the damage, all speculation up till then. Continuing with the speculation if it is a 6mm t&e then it is likely to be a cooker or small shower feed.
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Got a pic? Depends on what is damaged, if it is 6mm it may be an earth (CPC) If it is on your side of meter then it sounds like it might just be a case of a quick knock of the power on your consumer unit, disconnect earth, a bit of earth heat shrink over the damaged section of insulation, reconnect. Although 6mm sounds a bit on the light side. If it is on the DNO side then it is a repair for them as it may be soldered onto cable head and you don’t want to touch that. If it is indeed “your” live then it may just need the double insulated tail changed between meter and consumer unit. Anyways let see a pic and see if that tells us anymore.
