Jump to content

Tom Mabbutt

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Tom Mabbutt

  • Rank
    Senior Member, User formerly known as Mabbs

Personal Information

  • Location:
    Norfolk/Suffolk border...

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hi Mark, did you find a solution to this? Cheers,T
  2. Hi I can't figure out what the problem is here, probably something silly. I have a 560xp running an 18inch Sugihara solid pro bar (.325 .058), the chain is an Oregon 21bpx (.325 .058 chain 72 links). I put these on new after the nose sprocket went kaput on the previous Husqy bar, immediately the new bar started to blue and get really hot. Made sure the chain wasn't too tight, blew the saw out turned up the oiler so it was flinging out loads and it still happened. Figured it might be something to do with the hardness of the Sugihara steel so put an Oregon bar on and it still happened, not only this it wore the bar rails down like made just over a short time. So I then had the whole oiling system stripped and it still happened. Looking at the chain I can see the the bottom edges of the tie-straps and cutters are sort of burred and pretty worn considering the chain has had little use. The helpful chap at chainsawbars.co.uk said the fact that I hadn't changed the rim sprocket could be contributing to the issue, but it hardly got any wear, and the drive links on the chain look fine. Any ideas? I'm certain that I'm not running the chain too tight either. Ps. Using Oregon bio oil.
  3. Thanks for the input all. The deed is now done; HH2 and Cougar-Blue ordered
  4. Thanks chaps. The credit card is whispering my name, the missus rolled her eyes when I explained what I 'needed' to put on there...but she didn't object. Got a big job coming up in May, deadwood in the upper crowns of lots leggy Oaks and tall Limes. Want the set-up sorted and sussed for then. Should make it easier. HH2 does look mint.
  5. This...quality bag, very well stitched, great service from the seller with customisation options at request. Seems bomb-proof. Arborist / Tree Surgeon Rope Bag (Medium) | eBay
  6. So, I'm about to take the step to SRT, been on the cards for a while...currently DdRT with Zig zag, pantin, 37m Blue Tounge and pulley saver, got a HAAS Velox today, which looks great. Been eyeing up a RW for weeks and weeks now, but now I'm swaying to the Hitch Hiker, it looks the mutts nuts, I like how compact the system looks. But I'm feeling a pressure building in my head the more I try and figure out rope types, thicknesses, lengths and hitch cord combos! I've seen previous positive comments about Cougar Blue and Kernmaster. Is there much difference in the selection on 11mm or 11.7mm rope, obviously the ideal hitch cord thickness will perhaps differ. I like the idea of the thicker cougar blue (more friendly on the hands?) and the possibility of a spiced eye for switching to DdRT, so perhaps this is the right rope? My main question though is what length of rope are people finding optimum for SRT work in the UK? I anticipate I will use basal anchors and retrievable top anchors (e.g. cambium saver with alpine butterfly and tail of rope down on the ground). Any current rope/hitch cord combo recommendations also welcome (sorry, probably been answered before). p.s. Booked myself onto the Treekit SRT workshop on the 23rd April, looking forward to it
  7. <p>Hi Tyrone, I've been on the lookout for a loler inspector for a while now. Where are you based roughly? How much £ for a couple of climbing kits (some items need marking). Cheers.</p>

  8. The more you work with trees, the more you will understand the strength of wood, and how the different types of wood behave when you cut and work with them. When you are anchored in remember that the compressive strength of upright branch sections can be quite significant, side loading (or lateral loading) and the tension that this creates on wood is something to be weary of, just pause and take a while to think carefully about the best anchor points which are strong and which will allow you to work all or much of the crown, and the higher you can get your anchor the better too (having less of an angle on your main line will make you more confident when working at the extremities of crowns, this will help you to do better work). As said before; climbing hardwear is over-engineered for safety and once you learn to trust your gear you'll start speeding up. Always check.
  9. I really like the idea of this. I can see that you attach the HAAS swivel clip (attached to the HAAS bungee cord) to the middle attachment hole of the hitch climber. But where is the best place to clip it when using the Zig Zag?
  10. A hand ascender as well you say? This gets better, will get on that too. Cheers for the sling length tip. Not too sure if it will improve the set up but I might attach the tape to my bridge with it's own independant anchor ring. Perhaps it will make the clipping and unclipping of the bottom carabiner more straight forward?
  11. I'd handn't thought of that...what a simple hack, can't wait to try it. I'm in love with my Zig Zag.
  12. It's hard to see from the picture, but it looks like it could be squirrel damage, not 100% sure though. Regardless of whats caused it the tree is still young and its evident from the picture that wound-wood (healing) is occurring at the sites of damage, a good sign. I would be surprised if the whole tree was to suddenly die in the near future, although the damage may mean fungi or some other pathogenic organism may enter the tree and reduce its life span somewhat, or create structural issues years down the line. If you're worried about it get a good tree surgeon to have a closer look, they may be able to give it a tidy and remove the worst of the damage whilst still keeping a natural appearance and not being too heavy handed, or just shed some more light on what's caused it. Keep an eye on the density of the tree's leaves during the summer, if possible compare it to other nearby beech trees, this is the quickest and easiest way to assess the overall physiological health of a tree. Normally if a tree is about to conk it you'll see a significant overall thinning of the crown and foliage (before the usual leaf drop time Autumn), it will have a sparse and thin look to it. However, bear in mind branches with lots of squirrel damage can also decline. Hope that's of use. Good luck.
  13. FR Jones currently do 550xp's with a 15 inch bar for £530.60, great saw. I have a 560xp and I love it (just treated the her to a Sugihara bar, she's deserves it). Have used 550xp's and they are nice and light and really go.
  14. Looks a lot like Sulphur Tuft to me.


Arbtalk.co.uk is a hub for the arboriculture industry in the UK.  
If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place.  If you've done it, made it, got a van load of oily t-shirts and have decided to give something back by sharing your knowledge or wisdom,  then you're welcome too.
If you would like to contribute to making this industry more effective and safe then welcome.
Just like a living tree, it'll always be a work in progress.
Please have a look around, sign up, share and contribute the best you have.

See you inside.

The Arbtalk Team

Follow us

  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.