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Tom Mabbutt

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About Tom Mabbutt

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    Senior Member, User formerly known as Mabbs

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  • Location:
    Norfolk/Suffolk border...

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  1. Another vote for the Notch, I've used it for about a week now, the straps aren't bad, just take a little getting used to, but when its on it doesn't seem to shift around on your boot, it runs well. Also had it on over my spikes no probs. Had a couple of CT's before but found that the straps seemed to loosen and shift around a little and I was regularly having to tighten them up.
  2. Hi all, Workload is increasing so I'm looking for someone to call upon here and there in the new year. I've got a small, friendly set up and I work to a high standard. I don't take the micky and always try to keep it fun. Some experience is good, climbing tickets a bonus. Based in Bungay. PM me or give me a call on 07773676465. Cheers, Tom
  3. Thanks for the info guys. I was considering a GM 130/150. These (and the TW160) are the only decent road towable hydraulic chippers (that I could find) that will fit through my shed door (door opening 1420mm)! The nearest GM dealer is 1hr 45mins away, nearest TW dealer...20 mins away! The only things putting me off the TW160 is the lack of engine cover and the [email protected]%te Alko hitch that Mark pointed out. Other than that the machine sounds ace. It's good to know that the main bearings are now grease-able too. I will knock up some kind of engine cover for when in transit. Mark, where are you running your chain to/around on the chipper? Found a meaty Bullldog clamp for when the chippers not in use, just need to figure out how to lock it up quick when out and about. Any ideas for a makeshift (in- transit) engine cover will be welcome too! I'm thinking some pvc with eyelets and bungee cords?
  4. Hi all, Going to be investing in a TW160ph very soon (most probably). Will give it a demo first, of course. Just wanted to hear peoples up to date opinions on the machine as well. There was a bit of discussion a couple of years ago on here, consensus seemed positive. A couple of specific questions; does it throw chip far enough to fill a transit? I'm also unsure about the chassis, it's not A framed, but it has a single bar to the hitch mechanism, there doesn't seem a straight forward way of locking to the truck towbar, hitch lock maybe? But a previous thread talked about how it was hard to find a good hitch lock for the coupling mechanism. Perhaps there is something farther back on or near the axel - maybe a Kryptonite type cable to be run from here to the towbar? Just to stop the opportunist obviously. A dedicated tea leaf could get through that in no time, I'm sure.
  5. Hi all, Due to increasing work-load I'm looking to increase my contacts for self employed ground-workers, ideally with climbing tickets, to help out my small business on odd days here and there. Domestic work. Would like someone reliable and with experience ideally. Might be some opportunity to climb stuff every now and then if qualified/keen. Based near Bungay. Send us a PM if interested. Cheers, Tom
  6. Hi Mark, did you find a solution to this? Cheers,T
  7. Hi I can't figure out what the problem is here, probably something silly. I have a 560xp running an 18inch Sugihara solid pro bar (.325 .058), the chain is an Oregon 21bpx (.325 .058 chain 72 links). I put these on new after the nose sprocket went kaput on the previous Husqy bar, immediately the new bar started to blue and get really hot. Made sure the chain wasn't too tight, blew the saw out turned up the oiler so it was flinging out loads and it still happened. Figured it might be something to do with the hardness of the Sugihara steel so put an Oregon bar on and it still happened, not only this it wore the bar rails down like made just over a short time. So I then had the whole oiling system stripped and it still happened. Looking at the chain I can see the the bottom edges of the tie-straps and cutters are sort of burred and pretty worn considering the chain has had little use. The helpful chap at chainsawbars.co.uk said the fact that I hadn't changed the rim sprocket could be contributing to the issue, but it hardly got any wear, and the drive links on the chain look fine. Any ideas? I'm certain that I'm not running the chain too tight either. Ps. Using Oregon bio oil.
  8. Thanks for the input all. The deed is now done; HH2 and Cougar-Blue ordered
  9. Thanks chaps. The credit card is whispering my name, the missus rolled her eyes when I explained what I 'needed' to put on there...but she didn't object. Got a big job coming up in May, deadwood in the upper crowns of lots leggy Oaks and tall Limes. Want the set-up sorted and sussed for then. Should make it easier. HH2 does look mint.
  10. This...quality bag, very well stitched, great service from the seller with customisation options at request. Seems bomb-proof. Arborist / Tree Surgeon Rope Bag (Medium) | eBay
  11. So, I'm about to take the step to SRT, been on the cards for a while...currently DdRT with Zig zag, pantin, 37m Blue Tounge and pulley saver, got a HAAS Velox today, which looks great. Been eyeing up a RW for weeks and weeks now, but now I'm swaying to the Hitch Hiker, it looks the mutts nuts, I like how compact the system looks. But I'm feeling a pressure building in my head the more I try and figure out rope types, thicknesses, lengths and hitch cord combos! I've seen previous positive comments about Cougar Blue and Kernmaster. Is there much difference in the selection on 11mm or 11.7mm rope, obviously the ideal hitch cord thickness will perhaps differ. I like the idea of the thicker cougar blue (more friendly on the hands?) and the possibility of a spiced eye for switching to DdRT, so perhaps this is the right rope? My main question though is what length of rope are people finding optimum for SRT work in the UK? I anticipate I will use basal anchors and retrievable top anchors (e.g. cambium saver with alpine butterfly and tail of rope down on the ground). Any current rope/hitch cord combo recommendations also welcome (sorry, probably been answered before). p.s. Booked myself onto the Treekit SRT workshop on the 23rd April, looking forward to it
  12. <p>Hi Tyrone, I've been on the lookout for a loler inspector for a while now. Where are you based roughly? How much £ for a couple of climbing kits (some items need marking). Cheers.</p>

  13. The more you work with trees, the more you will understand the strength of wood, and how the different types of wood behave when you cut and work with them. When you are anchored in remember that the compressive strength of upright branch sections can be quite significant, side loading (or lateral loading) and the tension that this creates on wood is something to be weary of, just pause and take a while to think carefully about the best anchor points which are strong and which will allow you to work all or much of the crown, and the higher you can get your anchor the better too (having less of an angle on your main line will make you more confident when working at the extremities of crowns, this will help you to do better work). As said before; climbing hardwear is over-engineered for safety and once you learn to trust your gear you'll start speeding up. Always check.
  14. I really like the idea of this. I can see that you attach the HAAS swivel clip (attached to the HAAS bungee cord) to the middle attachment hole of the hitch climber. But where is the best place to clip it when using the Zig Zag?

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