roys
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Everything posted by roys
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Last year I managed to get out about 6 conifer stumps out, they were proud of the ground about 200mm, I did do a shallow dig round the each stump, put a nylon sling round the stump and pulled them out with a Tirfor. On some of them there was a couple of roots that needed a couple of wacks with an axe. You do need a decent tree or stump to act as an anchor for the Tirfor. Had all 6 out In a couple of hours.
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Split on a block, split about 7 cube a year with a maul. Found splitting on the ground didn’t work for me, I put it down to the ground absorbing too much energy.
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Mine as done the wiggly tin as well, the 2 things that actually stalled it though were an old electric fence wire and a builders merchant bag both of which wrapped round the flail shaft.
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I use a Wessex 1.2 meter 4 wheel tow behind my quad mower, obviously not a pto job, has about 60 almost L shaped flails on a pivot. Does the job I ask it to do perfectly, which is cut about an acre of rough grass once a month. Just had all the flails off a couple of weeks ago and sharpened them and put them back on with new pivot bolts. Its about time to give it a try but I’m trying to hold off for no mow may.
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Was hoping a good dose of Danish oil wood protect it. Mmmmm
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Split my time between Central Scotland and SW Scotland
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I’m in the opposite situation, I have seat ends that need shot blasted and powder coated but I have loads of Iroko slats. If only you were closer we could swop.
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She is certainly game, I did cringe at a couple of bits, for example when she let the motor rotor smack down onto the stator laminates and then dragged the rotor out instead of lifting it out.
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I have a shed very similar. I built mine of the ground by postcreting in a load of 4x4 posts linked with timber to act as bearers and then built the shed from that. As above I put down a sarking floor first then a membrane then battens with insulation in between then fitted their supplied floor. Outside I didn’t add a gutter but I dug a trench round it put in a perforated drainage pipe and backfilled with pea gravel. Been up best part of 10 years now the only problem I can see is the t&g roofing boards are a bit wavy.
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Yip as feared it is the stud to crankcase that is at fault. Good shout, will need to look them up either that or rattle a couple up on the lathe.
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Saw this bench table last year and thought it looked a fairly simple but effective design so took a pic of it as I might have been asked to make one, turns out I didn’t get asked.
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Cheers Ratman, as soon as it lands on my bench I will post up a pic or two.
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Ta for the reply but not sure what you mean Dan. He says the saw runs sweet, just can’t tighten the bar down.
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Bit of advise please, trying to guess a solution before I see the chainsaw (Stihl MS250) my mate stopped me when I was walking my dog tonight and asked if I could look at his chainsaw, says he can’t tighten the bar nuts as it just slips. without looking at it I am guessing that maybe : the nuts are stripped the studs are stripped or the chassis nut inserts are stripped. If the chassis nut inserts are stripped what are my options, can the inserts be replaced, do the old ones need drilled out? Any thoughts gratefully received, cheers
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As much as I like whisky I find that Smidge works a treat to stop the midges from biting, I find they don’t stop landing on you but they don’t appear to bite.
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Had both my shoulders operated on 3 years apart, before the operations I had injections in both, one of the injections did offer temporary pain relief which was fab but the pain came back hence the op. The injection in the other shoulder made no difference hence op on that one. I had gone through the physio sessions before hand but they were never going to work n my case.
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Aww J heart goes out to you, our little 4 legged family members have a special place in our life.
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That looks ace.
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Begginer at Wooden Crafts- best types of wood to use
roys replied to Jzarty's topic in Woodcraft Forum
Where in Scotland roughly are you. -
You’ll need to learn to sharpen your chains otherwise it will get very expensive if you get a new one every time it blunts. Plus they do need regular tickles with the file. I usually sharpen mine every tank or two of fuel. I only use a chainsaw for about 4 hours per week so I’m sure the professionals on here will give the exact timings on that, I guess a lot depends on what you are cutting and if it accidentally hits dirt, stones, wire or nails. i bought a chainsaw manual guide/ jig on here from one of the site sponsor, Rob at chainsaw bars I use that weekly to keep any angle inaccuracies from creeping in. Only used a wood grenade once found it to slow, if it is that knarly that I can’t split it with the maul (which is rare) it either gets chainsawed or if it is small enough it just goes in the woodburner as a whole piece once it has dried of course.
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Just the job
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Begginer at Wooden Crafts- best types of wood to use
roys replied to Jzarty's topic in Woodcraft Forum
Where are you about roughly in the country, if you are near me I will drop you off a few branches of sycamore, as said above good wood to work with, often used for making wooden spoons. -
Yip definitely put a divider in, if you look at mine on the 2nd page of this thread you will see the 8ft pallet on the bottom with one pallet for each end and one pallet in the middle to split it into two, this allows for easier stacking and to split it into two distinct processed batches time wise. There is also a couple of bracers right across the back on this setup, when I build them to be free standing and not against a wall they have another pallet as a back.
