Tim Stobart Tree Surgery

Cheers Pete, I have thought of that (though I have gone cheap and spen £20 on a handle you turn type, not an electric one), but when I tried it with the winch in the van but it means I can't steer it while winching, so I was thinking that the winch on the chipper would be safer, also useful around gardens. On slightly different note, I've lost a part of it (the small knob that holds the belt cover on), which must have shaken of on a job somewhere. Where is the best place to order wee parts from? Tim

I've been a member of the wee chipper club for a few months now, and it's a brilliant bit of kit, but, I'f finding loading and unloading it is a two man job. I have bought a boat winch [ame]http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B003SRL95M?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00[/ame] to mount on the front of it to allow me to load it safely in and out of the van on my own, and to help move it around awkward gardens. Has anyone else done the same, and if so, how have you mounted it? I'm currently thinking of getting a mounting plate welded onto it. Many thanks, Tim.

You could bill him, but the chances of him paying you are zero. If he has not consented to the work, then he is under no obligation to pay. Also your letter could be used to prove that you have damaged his property, if say he wanted the hedge to be 2' taller than you have maintained it. You may however find that you have a case with the land registry over the boundary dispute, with the fact that you have effectively owned it for that period (can you prove it?). My understanding is that boudaries can be redrawn if the land is occupied over a period of time. I would spend a couple of hundred quid consulting with a lawyer who knows the subject, and find out. From experience of a similar dispute overf the years. I would have to say, I'm sorry for you. This sort of thing usually gets nasty in both petty and physical ways. Take the higher ground, document everything you can, and look for dirt on the other guy. If he's as described, you'll find it! Good luck.

I think the message is clear, find what works for you. I am 100% certain that there is room for improvement in how I do it, but what I have works well enough. If ever I have an opportunity to get to an arb show then I'll grab it and learn by the bucket load (I swear there is a conspiracy amongst my friends to get married on the dates of arb shows just to pee me off!). For me it has mainly been working out ideas and trying them, but then I did my qualifications, worked for two very old school climbers for a while, and then ended up working for myself. I think (though I'm not 100% certain that I have even used a SRT at one point to swith from one tree to another, but again it was how I worked out the best way to solve that problem (threw a rigging rope from my position through another tree, got my groundie to tie off both ends and prussicked along it to gain the other tree canopy with minimal effort. I'd use that technique again, but I wouldn't claim to have a clue about SRT, I just think it's a variation of that theory)). I'm simple with just prussiks and ropes unless I'm rigging when I'll use pulleys, but a mechanical device is something I'd like to have a look at at some point. From what you've said, you use two anchors regularly, a flip line is not ideal for that, both ends of the rope can be a pain. I'd buy a 10m length (it'd cost around £25) and try that, learn to daisy chain it to keep it neat when you're not using it. If you don't get on with that, think of a new idea, £25 is not a lot to try something out. Get different colour rope, prussicks and crabs. We, by the nature of our job, are problem solvers. Solve this one.

Done, but just realised you'll be shut when I intended to buy a harness over christmas!

I'm sure he has, but I've not! I've decided to buy a new one as I'm updating my kit, I have been using a Komet for years (8 I think, so it's due for replacement). I like it for comfort, but find it fairly restrictive. I'd happily buy another one, but, if there's something better then that'd be great. Saying that, the other key thing to mention is I'm 16 stone plus, so that may affect comments.

I may, effectively, though I'm not sure of your meaning, I use a long rope (45m I think), a flip line (2.8m) and a 10m strop rather than the 2nd end of my rope. I find it much quicker than using the second end of my main line.

with new decks and belts that's tempting, even if just to shift the cs 100 around with! Where abouts are you? (you should update your profile to show this, it adds to your...............arbtalk trustyness, especially if you're a dealer of kit!)

Along with Type C mankini, a wife beater is really all you need if you're working hard enough:lol:

Merino are the best, but mine generally have a few years of mountain use before they're demoted to the abuse of a tree!

Base layers are ace, again i wear them year round. For a cheap climbing jacket, try a cyling one, generally not to long, and pretty breathable/robust. I got a good hi vis one for around £20. To be honest, Type C trousers keep your pretty warm, but on a really cold day i often chuck a rugby shirt on as well. I was stuck up a Nothofagus as a series of blizzard type showers came through t'other day, and was ok sheltering behind the trunk for 15 minutes at a time. You've got to love Scottish weather.

I'd be impressed if there was a CS100 on the back!

Great, I've got one to do at some point! My comment would be Sweet Chestnut on this front, though I've not climbed one for ages. I dismantled a Nothofagus t'other day which was a we bit snappy. Cold morning mind.

I'm in a similar boat, It was a pain last year with the walk behind, but can't quite justify the outlay.

Do you reckon you can justify putting these through your books? I'm just wondering, if it comes from the work account, I can buy more than if i have to ask the boss from the joint account?!

I've had a ms17o sitting in bits for months due to this, I may have a crack at it tonight, it's either that or write christmas cards!

I'd throw the MS170 into the mix, great little saws, light as, and only around £150. I have 4 kicking about in various states of repair. I still use them more than any other saw.

Some great advice already said. I would recomend trying to work with as many people as possible, get a reputation for grafting, and as already said looking after the kit. A sharp saw is important, avoid blunting it, but if you do, sharpen it, don't wait for someone to point out it's blunt, it looks incompetant. And don't put it down to sharpen later, you will forget (that reminds me.....). As for climbing kit, try as much as you can before you buy, find what works for you, but keep climbing even when the works not there, it is good fun. If you can get a suitable friend to join you, then you may have a future partner. Buying a saw. I spent years climbing with and using MS170's I've still got about 4 in various states of disrepair. They're gutless, but for climbing, and snedding up, they're good light little saws that only cost £150. It's always worth having a wee saw kicking about for little jobs you get asked to do. If you're wanting a ground saw, I couldn't recomend a MS241 enough. If you need anything bigger, then your employer should have it. In terms of carear path, I did my qualifications and then slotted back into working for a landscaping company (after an environmental science degree had proved fruitless on the job front), doing occasional tree work for a few people and the company. Got a fair amount of experience, but not really up to speed. I then moved away with my girlfriend getting a new job, found demand for the tree work side of my skill set when introducing myself within a new community and now am busy with work with a couple of guys working for me. I'm often subbed out by the other tree surgeon on the island for the more tricky work. So basic advice, look after kit, yours or your employers, work hard (keep of your phone until there's a break), Wait for others to stop before you do, look for things to do - if you think something may get smashed, then move it, and keep your saws sharp. Good luck

I have been taking Cod Liver oil this last year. Now I think about it, I've run out and have a sore knee that I've put down to wading through brash on an 80' sitka fell. I wonder if that's a coincidence. Saying that it has got colder! I'm certain it was helping.

I run a 460, Which is a stunning saw, for the extra cost/weight, I'd go 461 over 441.

Aye, this job is tough on your knees, in the tree (particularly on spikes), your ACL takes a hammering, and then on the ground in amongst brash, i find i'm forever straining and twisteing them. Having said that, I think I did my knees in playing a lot of rugby as a young un, so It may just be aggravating the problem. Either way. Yes, I feel your pain.

Another vote for the Airstreams. Great boots.

I'd vote for a ms241 on a 16" bar. It's a great wee saw.

I got stitched up on an Ebay machine for about £5k about 8 years, be carefull. I've just saved enough to buy a new Greenmech cs100, no risk on another second hand machine. They're great bits of kit, and worth looking at if that's your budget. Check out the wee chipper club thread to read through some thoughts on them. They're not 6" hydraulic feeds, but they are great wee machines, and you can get a new one for around the £5k mark. I'm still amazed at what they can deal with!

The Isle of Bute up in Scotland, the CA pretty much covers the entire town on the island. The tree officer is pretty good, I talk to her and show her round when she's over if I've got a few applications in. I've still not had any application refused in the 3 years I've been up here. So much easier to work with than the TO's were in Tunbridge Wells.