Agi-Smash

And another thing, supermarkets can and do put a much higher percentage bio in there fuel and legally don't have to tell you. My old truck used to chug a bit of black smoke when pulling hard, this seemed to reduce when using shell fuel. Im also not convinced its that what killed the Bosch vp44 injector pump in my old van. I couldn't prove it as it did have 244,000 miles on the clock, so it got baled! One thing i do get precious about is cleanliness and quality of fuel. Ok, rant over, sorry.

Reply to scraggs Yes totally agree. Fuel economy was approximately +7% on shell fuels. With fuel, you get what you pay for.

DO NOT USE TESCO FUEL IN ANYTHING YOU WANT TO KEEP Many years ago i was fooled by cheaper supermarket prices, so like everyone else i used to use it. Service time came for my old mighty mitsubishi, changed fuel filter and had a job to bleed it. Anyway got it sorted so thought i would cut the fuel filter up, it was like a dirty stinking old black rag. Thought it may have been dirty tank etc. well dad used to use same garage so thought i would get his truck in, whipped fuel filter out, again, dirty and stinking. This set me thinking. It was at the same time my sisters cat went on her car. Proved to be excess silicone in cheap supermarket fuel, fair play tesco paid for repair. So i took a sample straight off the pump and got it analysed, only just met bs en590 standard. JUST. Reported to tesco and treated me like i was thick, emailed a copy of my engineering qualifications and experience in diesel engines and back pedalled rather rapidly. Send me a fifty pound tesco voucher, posted it back to him with the politest get f****d letter i think i have ever written and a promise i would never use there fuel again, id rather walk. Shell garage 300 yards up road, 1p/ltr more but you get what you pay for. Fuel filters always spotless at every service, no troubles. People say its all the same fuel from the same tank and refinery, boll***s is it!

Thanks Alec, i shall wait a bit then, at least until the fruit is all eaten. I was going to do some pictures earlier but was a bit dark for the old ipad to take a half decent picture. Will try earlier tomorrow.

Evening all Just had a walk round me garden between showers, noticed my, probably ten year old pear tree is getting a bit wild. Just wondered if anyone had any thoughts on when the best time to trim a pear tree is? Also is there any particular way to do it? Many thanks Dave

Interesting thoughts on temperature. Most tractors run a 10w30 suto back end oil with an oil to water heat exchanger, so ultimately the oil ends up at coolant temperature, near 90 odd degrees. If using a zinc free hydraulic oil argo recommend 1000 hour service intervals. Most stand alone oil coolers have a 55 degree temperature switch. I only put another hydraulic pump in my 135 because i was bored waiting for the splitter ram to cycle, and because, as an agricultural engineer, i always have second hand bits floating about, bit of spare space in the workshop and an hour or two in winter to play.

Below blood heat? Really? What oil are you using? I use several bosch rexroth 45-85cc ls pumps and 33cc gear pump sets and rexroth say iso hv vg 46 hydraulic oil is alright up to 70 degrees c above ambient.

Drain back end oil, insert splitting rails, split tractor between gearbox and back end, remove left hand cover, maybe machine torsion tube, fit sandwich plate drive, pump, lift pipe, output pipes etc, put tractor back together, i fitted a double acting spool and quick releases on diff housing just below left bum cheek. Fill with oil, pressure and flow check. Sit back and enjoy extra flow. No extra tanks, no pto shafts to bugger around with, all enclosed, proper job.

Not really, i actually have a lot of second hand massey bits floating about. Presuming that your 35x isnt already a multi power gearbox.

Possibly linings fell off shoes? Seized cylinders? Adjuster over cam? Pull the drum off and have a look, just be careful with the dust.

As well as, leave the standard pump in for linkage.

Split it and put a 200 series multi power pump in, outlet pipes to left hand side, may have to machine out the torsion tube on the pto to suit, 35 will be a fine spline, 68 on 135's have coarse spline like a 200. Gives you 9 gallon a minute, been there, done that.

Good work there. All the best for your big day.

Been told by a construction and demolition contractor that a 'stubby' is 0.53mtr/3

Yeah, a nice big chainsaw. Or maybe even a processor? I can see a new business here.

Thank you John Many thanks to Carol the curator of such a tasty masterpiece

Getting old today and dont usually bother with birthdays and stuff, had food and beer with a few mates then woman pulls out this cake. Been having a go at some carving recently, and man, is it good cake.

Good stuff. Should be a plate that says model eg. Mk15hs. Some pictures would be good too

Depending on which model it it, you probably wont need to remove flywheel. Probably three spokes on flywheel so work between them, should be a round ali pot inside about inch and half round by inch deep. Flip the swivel bar out way, flip cover off and you are in.

Any idea what model villiers is it? Clean the points, villiers are favourite for it. I wouldnt bother with any fuel additive, the compression ratio and rotational speed just wouldnt warrant it.

I find samoa ones are pretty good, fairly strong and last well, about £15 i think.

Hydrostats are pretty good. We have a mf8927x, i think, at home and its a good bit of kit. Basically a red terex. Just be ware of merlo, nice machines, if used and maintained properly. Older ones used to use a radiator header tank with a rad cap on for the hydro drive oil. So as you can imagine i have seen a fair few with water in the hydro oil. Also i dont really like the merlo brakes, calipers seize up and its a fair fiddle.

Agree everytime, bin the dmf, get a solid one in there. I actually carry a transit clutch kit and flywheel in stock, think theyre like 330 for a complete kit. Dont want to be the bearer of unhappy thoughts, but my mates brother had a navara and the engine oil pickup pipe fractured and the back axle shat itself, hope its not too serious. 1300 for a clutch? Really? Man i am far too cheap.

Thats a good ides, get them cross referenced, usual problem is customer breaks machine, customer need machine back ten minutes ago. From experience, try and get a sheep farmers machine or an arable farmer machine. Again, only from my experience dairy and beef farmers are as rough as and not too bothered with maintenance. Once worked on a p reg jcb 526 with 9000 odd hours on and it was mint. Still had all the glass, all the lights and mudguards and the grease nipples had actually been greased within the last hundred years, good old sheep farmers.

That was good, last set of 11.2/10x28's i bought was 250 each, and that was a special price. All tele handlers are good bits of kit, but i would opt for a jcb everytime.