Macpherson

Wow, so not really a cheap housing option if you were to add up the on costs and compare to similar over the life time of a mortgage on a small flat.. Not only that, but I'd imagine many other unforeseen / unpredictable costs... there's no doubt ' and I say this with personal experience ' that boats of any kind are just a hole to throw money in.. perfectly fine, if you've got wads👍

I'd have given you that all day.. always wanted a 3120 but might be too old now🙄

Interesting, these mooring fees are more than double the council tax for my small flat in Glasgow which will for sure have more floor space than a barge.. as a curiosity do you still pay council tax on top if you're floating ?

Well you're pushing it now with this him/her shite on a thread about a possible dodgy chain🤣

I've got that gun... I wish I had the one that does work🙂

Yeah, not that odd really in that the local company near to me in Glasgow that I alluded to earlier in this thread supplied Greenheart piles and made repairs to and built new piers all up the west coast Highlands and Islands. The company ' Murrays ' probably closed down about 30 years ago around the same time that a large local timber merchant ' Robinson Dunn ' also closed it's doors.. they had a large autoclave timber treatment yard as a part of their business. Back in the day the lumber was brought up the Forth and Clyde canal in barges from Bowling on the Clyde to Anniesland basin in Glasgow which was where the above timber yard was based. Gilmour and Aitken is to this day a very large timber yard with an amazing stock of all sorts of lumber from around the world... the last time I was there was to buy Siberian Larch but walking through the place it was hard to concentrate for being surrounded by exotic timbers seasoning in large stacks, not to mention stacks of full massive trunks waiting to be processed, cheers.

Hi, I only have an Alaskan so if I need 4, 5, or 6" x 2"s for example out of something that I've milled I simply slice it to size with a big Makita.. it works a treat, cheers.

I can't really argue with any of that, but I think the analogy of the crabs and bucket is very good and applies to most of humanity... not just the Scots,[ although history shows them to be turncoats and small minded grassers] but I'm surely surrounded by thick tw$ts in everyday life ... by feck they don't half reap wot they sow.. and I for one am past caring, cheers.

No Idea on availability but as for sharpening I don't see it being impossibly difficult although I've never tried it. I get TCT table saw blades sharpened frequently at a very low cost which I'd guess is done on a jig with a stone as are all other TCT tools so presumably a chain would be easy to do with a disc type sharpening jig with the correct disc As @openspaceman said it may not be a pleasure to sharpen.. but not impossible, after all there are many engineering too that are TC tipped and they all get sharpened. Any chain that's put through dirt will sooner or later be scrap but presumably you'd be trying to avoid that. When I was young there was a pier building / repair business with a local yard so there was a lot of Greenheart kicking about the area and at that time I had no idea of it's true value and used it for many different things including firewood🙃 never really thought to much about cutting it .. I just cut it because you couldn't split it... It was it's weight that stuck in my mind at the time. And to the OP, I'd give it a go with a circular saw just to see... maybe taking multiple shallow cuts.. if it eats the blade you can always get it sharpened. Cheers.

The Stellite tipped bands that you mention will no doubt be the best solution for milling this long since seasoned timber... but alternatively perhaps if milling with a chainsaw it would be an ideal opportunity to use Stihl Rapid Duro Tungsten Carbide chain. From previous experience seasoned Greenheart is very hard on [ destructive ] any ordinary chain, cheers.

When I was young a local company in Glasgow had the contract to supply Greenheart piles for all the costal pier renovations in the west coast highlands and islands so whatever you get to mill will likely be reclaimed from that era or stashed away unused lumber. it's definitely the gnarliest, hardest on teeth timber I've ever encountered by a long shot. 👍

Wow, what a buzz that must have been👍

Hi, according to this which looks to be the same it's a 3.2 mm or 1/8" file for the PM3 1/4" chain... It's nasty to file, I do it with a diamond burr in the Dremel Stihl HTA85 / HTA 85 Pole Pruner Chainsaw Chain 12" (30cm) 3670 000 00 WWW.NEWSAWCHAINS.CO.UK Stihl 3670 000 0064 Chainsaw Chain - Stihl Picco Micro 3 - PM3 - 64 Drive Links Low-vibration low-profile saw chain with the high cutting performance of a standard chain combined...

Hi, I've never had any problems using Loctite on exhaust studs, although as you say the temp range says up to 150C for the one I'd try first for this which would be medium strength Loctite 243 blue or high strength 2700 green, and although as said high heat degrades Loctite and a common way to undo a Loctite bond would be with a Oxyacetylene torch but this is far hotter than any engine would get and for instance would give you a good chance of removing the stud without pulling out the Helicoil with it, if that was ever something that was needed... I recon it's a easy and cheap first option with really nothing lost if it were to come loose again. And to the OP, nearly always when a helicoil is fitted [ properly ] the feel of the bolt / stud in the repaired hole is slightly sloppier than an original cut thread.. this is normal. Loctite goes off/ hardens anaerobically with the lack of air in the gaps it fills so if trying this, get the refitted stud vertical so nothing can run out before it sets... a wee bit of gentle heat from a blowtorch will speed this process up to no time at all. Should it ever fail again you still have the option of using another other repair medium. Just to add.. at this stage it would be a good idea to fit new studs just to be sure, as the last thing you'd want is for one to shear off flush with the face at the last thread.. which is exactly where it will shear if the stud is damaged from too many ins and oots or stretched from many attempts to tighten it. Cheers to you both and good luck with the repair. 👍 I used both of these [ or their older equivalents ] on a daily basis most of my working life. Thread Lock 243 10ml Loctite Blue Bolt Stud Nut Screw Fast Fix Glue Compound NEW WWW.EBAY.CO.UK Locktite 243 Thread Lock 10ml Blue. Net Content: 10ml per bottle. This Blue 243 Thread Locker is designed for the locking and sealing of threaded fasteners which require normal... Loctite 2700 OEM Specified High Strength Thread Lock & Sealant- Stud/ Nutlock WWW.EBAY.CO.UK Henkel Loctite 2700 High Strength Threadlock. Fast Acting Thread Lock & Sealant. Up to thread size M20. High Strength- Designed for permanent locking. OEM Specified.

I previously assumed you were employed with coppicing.. but that would appear to be crap😁

Remind me again how you do that @someonesname thing as I'm not getting it, thanks in advance👍 And to the OP, sorry for the derail and I also think your flue will be fine.

Ok, know this is a site where we're mostly talking about saws, but the effects of this fuel on all IC engines really can't be underestimated. While you can run your saws etc on Aspen and pass the cost on to customers it remains the fact that it's simply not financially practical for most folk to run other stuff on Alkylate... Genies, bikes, outboards, any small occasionally used IC engines, all classic machinery and of course your car.. I believe diesel also has an amount of Ethanol now added, so really any machine that you seldom use [ meaning weeks, not years ] will in some way be really quite quickly be exposed to potential damage by stale fuel that has now an affinity for the H2O which quickly makes it corrosive to many materials... this water previously would have laid at the bottom of the tank not mixing with the 'fuel' causing annoying rust and not much else. So to prevent endless new problems in my fleet of wee engines that often tend to lie about for months, I use fuel stabiliser religiously.. really no cost as £8.50 ish will treat around 150L. cheers. B3C Ethanol Shield Fuel Stabiliser 118ml | Toolstation WWW.TOOLSTATION.COM Triple antioxidant fuel stabiliser eliminates then prevents ethanol related problems, promoting easy engine starting. Protect machinery from the corrosive effects of ethanol blended fuels...

Hi, I've been using it for quite some time in any small engine 2 and 4 stroke, the brand I favour is Ethanol shield but I've also used Briggs and Stratton's Fuel Fit and can say that these definitely do what they claim, ie keeping the fuel stabilised for up to several years.... and much longer in my experience. It's a complicated subject but you can get a handle on it with a bit of personal experience of using plus a good bit of reading. I also managed to get many of my more informed customers to use the stuff and so I can see the difference between their engine probs and others who don't bother... who know what the immense cost of using crap fuel has been globally since the introduction of this rubbish, cheers.

+1 for overhanging roofs👍

I'd say that if you mean the scaffold debris netting and the Galebreaker which may be the same knitted product with probably 1/4" to 3/8" holes in the knit depending how tight you stretch it... at 32 squid it's a no brainer as it also has many other uses and won't degrade over a long time👍

Hi, I've used scaffolding debris netting for this purpose, I hung it about 12" away from a 6' high covered log stack with no side protection... it worked well and heavy rain mostly ran down it and stayed off the stack, in good weather I could easily remove or roll it up.... It also comes in 3 meter widths if you needed that. A good big roll for £32👍 NEW Green Shade Garden Debris Scaffold Netting 2m x 50m RRP £69.99 WWW.EBAY.CO.UK Safe Net Green Shade Debris Scaffold Netting 2mtr x 50mtr. Though Debris Netting provides limited weather protection, it...

A very interesting link, cheers.

Hi, I'm finding it pretty difficult to see any detail in your pics could you not blow the shit off the area and repost a better view. There are several possibilities when it comes to a repair of an alloy casting whether Magnesium or not, you just need to find someone able to do it, cheers. Welding a Magnesium casting.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ElT5qmUyagU

Great name, same eyes👍

It's not news, but it's someone's down to earth views.. and Andrew is a very sharp commentator imo......