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SawTroll

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Everything posted by SawTroll

  1. Clutch drum and worm gear, to be more exact.
  2. It may - but it doesn't always even on a stock saw - depending on the cutting at hand and some other factors. I often use an 8-pin on mine for limbing, but it has its limitations. Changing the rims on those saws back and forth are much easier than many people think it is - no special tools or piston stops are needed, just a suitable chisel or screwdriwer, and a hammer or other suitable tool to hit it with.
  3. Just get a .325x8 rim, and find out yourself what you like best. Changing to a spur would just be stupid on all accounts (if it even is possible). There are a lot of variables involved, so don't just og by what someone else has experienced!
  4. That fits with only one reasonably current chain that I know of: Husky H23 (= Oregon 20LP/LPX), which is (full) chisel in .325 .050 (1.3mm). Are you sure it doesn't say 73 on the drivers, and not 23? Pictures seem to be needed, if the chain isn't .325!
  5. Usually not - and I assume a 3/8"x8 will work fine with a 15" bar - it does on my MS361! I will try it on my 560xpg with a 16" bar, and already have bought the standard 7-spline drum that is needed to do it.....
  6. The 25 on the rakers means that the (initial) raker setting is recommended to be 25/1000 of an inch - but that has nothing to do with the drive links (or the model number of the chain). There usually is a different number down on the tangs that go down into the bar slots and sprockets, and it is that number that is needed to ID the chain model.
  7. Nothing wrong with that plan (or thought). I didn't mean that you should, just that you could!
  8. You could of course use a longer bar on it, if you needed it.
  9. Echo saws generally have very low power output for their weight and cc, so try to avoid them. Either they don't know how to port the engines properly, or they respect thert costumers too little to care to do it.
  10. You can of course try an 8-pin (rims are cheap), but I am reasonably sure a 7-pin will serve you better on that saw.
  11. Nose radius is what really counts, not the teeth count itself!
  12. The 11t nose will bore cut a little better, and the 10t will have a little less kick-back potensial - your choise, never mind the recommendations, as those are more thaught out by lawyers than by sawyers!
  13. Absolutely none - the 359 was designed as a cheaper option to the 357xp. The porting is made less effective on purpose, and it lacks the crank stuffers - for a loss of .5 hp.
  14. I have actually had some success with reporting fraudent Ebay etc adds - but there just is too much of it, so I gave up.....
  15. I am sure it is!
  16. Yes, of course I remove them. I don't throw them away though, just in case the conditions mandate their use in the future (hasn't happened yet).
  17. You need the clutch drum listed for 3/8" chain in the IPLs, as that is a standard 7-spline one - look in the 562xp IPL. Unless you want to use an 8-pin, you can just get a 3/8"x7 rim for the small 7-spline, which is not the one listed in the IPLs. Look in a 262xp IPL if you need the part number.
  18. Hopefully they have pure K095 mounts, and not the combination K095/K041 mounts (AT mount)?
  19. It is in the manual that comes with the saw, and should be very obvious anyway.
  20. Stihl sell some .058 bars here, but only 13-15" ones in .325. Anything else is .063, except for Picco bars of course.....
  21. It is really sad that you don't have a good Husky or Jonsered dealer, as the bulky and clumcy handling MS261 doen't compare very well.... Trigger response is know to be slow as well on the MS261.
  22. Regarding the handlebar, 353, 351 and 350 - maybe 345 as well, don't really remember. Not the 340, that one has a "plastic" handlebar.
  23. At least they aren't in the 50 and 60cc classes!
  24. Well, peoples perception of what "pulls good" means obviously will vary a lot.
  25. I have a 353g, NE346xpg and 2153WH, but not a 550xp/xpg. However I have handled one with a 13" bar at my Husky dealer, and it seemed to be just as rear heavy as the others with that bar, maybe even more so. I don't use 13" bars on 50cc saws (haven't done after 2003), mainly 16", but also 15" (the difference is only 2dl, so not even a full inch in bar length).

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