Jump to content

Log in or register to remove this advert

SawTroll

Veteran Member
  • Posts

    1,194
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by SawTroll

  1. It is not a coinsidense that all the responses are along the same track......
  2. Yes, except it isn't about "a few years", but rather a few decades.
  3. Out of wood and at the entry of the wood, yes - but the reduced effective torque very soon will result in really low rpm, and lower chain speed than with the small sprocket (and bogging) in the wood. I some cases (where the saw has "spare" torque for the cutting attachment) a larger sprocket is a good option, but certainly not with a MS210.
  4. Yes, there has to be an opening between the adjuster hole and the groove, of course.
  5. No - only D009, K095 and A095 that I know of.
  6. Basically what I said, and true. That is only partially true - Husky has a bar factory (in Norway) that make a lot of the bars.
  7. Rather a flat area that contacts the outside of the bar in the proper area.
  8. There has to be something that blocks the opening on the outside of the bar.
  9. The seller should have know that isn't a correct bar for that saw......
  10. Could of course be faulty - but it is more likely that the bar you looked at has a bar mount pattern without a seperate oiler hole - like K041 or A041. A lot of smaller saws does use those mount patterns. If so, the upper adjuster hole doubles as a oiler hole but that doesn't work on saws that take the K095/A095.
  11. In 3/8" lo-pro/picco the Husky bars use more dl, yes. Regarding the fitment of the bar, all I know is that the slot is the same 8.2mm, but otherwise they don't match up. I don't know for sure if they can be modified to fit or not.
  12. Are you sure you are using the right roller guide for the chain, and the right file size? Btw, I never had a single issue with the rollers wearing out fast (or anything else) - but then I mostly file freehand anyway....
  13. OK, looked at the UK website (which is not the one I usually look at), and there the description is good enough to conclude that (if it is Oregon chain) it has to be 91PX. 91PX surely is a better chain than 91VG/H36 - even though it is another "green" semi-chisel chain. Now go out and buy some 63PS, that is "yellow" and (full) chisel!
  14. That makes sense. However, I assume that H37 is some Oregon model (rebranded for Husky) - like the H36 = 91VG and H36x used to be 91VS. The question is which one, altenatively if it is Huskys first "self made" chain model?
  15. I am also confused regarding what H37 is. Some info I found indicated it is the rather hopeless 33SL chain (in .325)???
  16. That came out a bit wrong, as I may have misread what I responded to. What I meant is that the rakers need different settings for different conditions. The best ones so far are the Husky plate guides, that has different settings for "soft" and "hard" wood. Also progressive ones (the Husky plate guides and the Carlton FOP) compensates for the cutters getting shorter after some sharpenings, and the distance from the top of the raker to the cutting edge longer. It is about the "angle of attack", that the cutters work at.
  17. SawTroll

    Dolmar

    The 5105 is quite a bit heavier than the 550xp, and the handling when limbing and such is clumcy, due to the bulky design with an inboard clutch.
  18. SawTroll

    Dolmar

    Old, heavy and slow - based on the reports I have seen.
  19. SawTroll

    frankensaw

    You didn't, as there are no firm defination of that expression!
  20. The only other model it could be is a 62 with a 621 handlebar and handguard. A pic of the handlebar mount on the other side of the saw will tell for sure. Btw, it isn't a Jonsered, but a Jonsereds! The 621 was introdused in 1970 as an updated version of the 62 (1968). They were stellar saws in their prime time, and a lot of them are still going strong! The 621 was replaced by the Husky made 630 in 1982.
  21. Looks like a 621, but I would like to see pics from other angles as well to make 100% sure.
  22. Parts are basically NLA, so there is no easy way to get parts. Parts saws is an option, and keep in mind that the 70e is the same saw less the top end, and is much more common to find than the 66e. Changing the top end to a 70e one is a good idea, if the opportunity arises along the search for parts (69cc vs. 61)..... Ebay may be a good place to start the search.
  23. SawTroll

    frankensaw

    As the expression is used on different forums, any saw made from parts originating from different models may be considered a Frankensaw. However, a 281 with a 288 top end is borderline to qualify imo, as those models basically are the same saw.
  24. Well, the 13 and 15" .325 Stihl bars are .058 here - and then there is the .325 NK stuff in .050, that often comes on the smaller Husky saws ...
  25. None of those - it is a low end "homeowner" saw with a bad power to weight ratio!

About

Arbtalk.co.uk is a hub for the arboriculture industry in the UK.  
If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place.  If you've done it, made it, got a van load of oily t-shirts and have decided to give something back by sharing your knowledge or wisdom,  then you're welcome too.
If you would like to contribute to making this industry more effective and safe then welcome.
Just like a living tree, it'll always be a work in progress.
Please have a look around, sign up, share and contribute the best you have.

See you inside.

The Arbtalk Team

Follow us

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.