SawTroll
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Everything posted by SawTroll
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You could of course try to turn up the oiler, if it isn't already set at max. Some times it is enough to force the sprocket back and forth on a plank or similar.
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OK, if the rpm are staying up, it surely sounds like a clutch or drive issue. There are a few different possibilities, so we need some pictures of the clutch shoes/springs + both sides of the drum, the drive sprocket, and the chain. It could also be that the drive sprocket is the wrong size, so take a picture with the rim in position on the drum.
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Are you sure this is about a clutch issue, and not an engine or fuel supply issue?
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Stihl cylinder/piston kits. Genuine or non-genuine?
SawTroll replied to Charles Ekin's topic in Chainsaws
That sound like there is an air leak. The leak has to be found and fixed before you put a new top end on there - if not the new top end will suffer the same fate in short order. -
I am not sure, but suspect it is a 160S, if it has points. Could you measure the bore of the cylinder? The saw is from the early 1970s, so it surely is old.....
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1.3mm (.050) is common on this side of the Atlantic only with saws that come with saws that come with either 3/8" picco/lo-pro/mini/hobby (many names on that "child", but it is the same thing - low profile 3/8 chain), or with .325 narrow kerf/pixel. The saws that come with such set-ups usually are small, mostly less than 50cc.
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Yes, something to watch out for when buying from the US.
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With a 55dl chain there basically are two choises: 1) Keep as many cutters as a 56dl chain (14 on each side), but delete one dl and one tie strap at one point. This will result in an even number of dl, but the distance will be short between two of them. 2) Delete a dl and a cutter instead. This will leave you with 14 cutters one one side and 13 on the other = two in a row on the same side, with a longer than "normal" distance beween those two.
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Regular 3/8" chain in .050 (1.3mm) is very common in large parts of the US. It doesn't make much sense, but it just is that way.....
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Talking about the common "full comp" chain (as opposed to skip chain - different and more distorted story), the sequence will always be distorted in some way on chains with odd dl counts. Exactly how it is distorted some times depends on the choise the one (or factory) that makes the loop in question made. Only chain with a dl count that is devidable with 4 will have a totally uniform sequence all the way around. Chain with a dl count devidable with 2 (but not with 4 - 66dl is a common exemple) will have 2 cutters in sequence on the same side at one point, but otherwise be undistorted (= same distance beween all cutters). None of this really matters, unless the loop maker messed it up in some way.
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Stihl cylinder/piston kits. Genuine or non-genuine?
SawTroll replied to Charles Ekin's topic in Chainsaws
Poor casting and sloppy chamfering around ports as well. Mostly the porting itself is less effective than OEM as well. Some aftermarkets top ends will be OK if you just want the mashine to run again, but don't expect it to run as well as an OEM top end would. -
It varies of couse, but at least it should be over halv a tank, and of course it should run out of gas before it runs out of oil. Newer Stihl saws tends to have the more restrictive oilers.
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It is a very old model, that was replaced by the 153 in 1982 - which means it mainly is a collectors item. Speculating a bit; Collectors items usually aren't worth a lot, and I don't think that one is an exception (unless it is in NIB or mint condition of course). Regardless, the price will depend on which buyer(s) you find, and their interests.
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As far as I know, after some time in the late 1990s (early 1998 for the 066) the numbers on the covers were changed from being the basic setting, to be the amount of adjustment that the limiters allow. I don't know for sure if that still is the case, but haven't seen any indication that it isn't.....
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That one would be from the late 1980s or the 1990s if it is a 266xp - early to mid 1980s if it is a 266se......
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A 1970 vintage Jonsereds 621 (one of the first ones). It still works fine.
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Here is some documents that may tell you something; SB1991 Super II changes ++.pdf 630 IPL 1987 Super.pdf 630 IPL 1993 Super II.pdf
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The 162 was for all practical purposes replaced by the 266, that was the same basic saw with a larger engine. The Jonsered 670 was again based on that one. Then it became really complicated with that "saw family", and nothing else really is close to the "Super" versions of the 630. Some parts interchange with one model, some with another, and so on. Studying the parts lists may be the best way to start learning what's the same and what's not. Is there any parts you already know that you have to replace? The 630 always came with the large Husky Mount (D009), as far as I know. Adapters to use the 9.5 mm Jonsereds mount (D025) hardly are availiable today.
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There were no "same as" system back then, even though that one was made at the Husky factory (as were all Swedish made Jonsereds from 1987, and some, including the original 630, from 1982) - and was based on the 162SE. The 162SE was discontinued long before the 630 matured into the Super, and later the Super 2.
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Some times they actually are right - and some times new ways to do things does appear. This is the case with the 560/550 "families" of saws.
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Not slightly, really! Good choise!
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"Same as" the 450 I believe, 2150 basically is 350 2250 basically is 450.
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From the operator manual; NOTE! The start/stop switch automatically returns to run position. In order to prevent unintentional starting, the spark plug cap must be removed from the spark plug when assembling, checking and/or performing maintenance
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He is very wrong, but it was a decent saw in its hayday (late 1960s, early 1970s). It was made longer than that as a cheaper option to the pro saws, but then it really was outdated. Production also was moved to Yugoslavia in 1974. Jonsereds really made better saws than Husky back then - and with a couple of exceptions (070, 090) Stihl wasn't even close.
