SawTroll
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Everything posted by SawTroll
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Yes, but somehow I can't find anything about what that mount fits, or how wide the slot is....
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Personally, I wouldn't want to go older than 288/281/181 or 268/272 for a work saw, because of the spare part situation.
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76.5cc.
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I don't believe it is that "clean" as a cutoff, only some very early 365s (if any) would have an intake that isn't compatible with the 372xp top end.
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I believe that was an EPA "thing", that wasn't directly related to the "Special" designation.
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I undestand that was the main change as well, even though some other changes happened more or less at close to the same time.
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Regular .325 (not narrow kerf). 21LPX would be my choise for chain (chisel chain). Find a drum that takes rim sprockets, and try 7- and 8-pin ones. 2051 IPL
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Not a recall, but a service bulletin. It is worth checking out if it is an early saw. Start with checking for loose case bolts.
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Hardly the best set-up on that quite strong saw - but that is of course not the issue here. Is it the clutch itself, or is it the drum that you need to replace?
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Specs doesn't always tell the full truth! ...and with a 36" bar (that the OP specified), the extra weight (and outboard clutch) of the 395xp will actually may a help, and not a disadvantage.
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From the reports I have seen (and that is a lot), most people that used both prefere the 395xp. I have no personal experience with either.
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2054 and 2055. Those saws all use the common small 7-spline rims, so those should be easy to find anywhere.
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You may well do the right thing, and don't really understand why they don't advice the users to grease the clutch bearing now and then.... Maybe they like to sell parts?
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The issue is that the dirt sticks to the grease, I assume.
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They don't, unless you started doing it - then you have to follow up. What needs to be greased now and then (but not weekly as the manual says) is the clutch bearing - and that is really easy on the Husky saws, with the grease gun, and the hole in the end of the crankshaft. I never had an issue with the stock ones, except that it took some time to figure out how to refill them....
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Yes, I totally agree (and so does my Husky dealer) - and no piston stop is needed when doing it that way! The direction is clearly marked on the clutch.
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Go back to post #19, there isn't much else to post about here....
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Well, it may actually work OK on that saw, because of the low rpm it makes its max power at.
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Stihl 63PS is the only non-safety chisel chain in 3/8" lo-pro/Picco - and what I would run on a T540xp in "clean" wood. The proper dl count for the Husky may be special order, depending on the dealer.
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That depends on how you file them, and they can get a bit sharper than Stihl chain, because of the thinner chrome. I'm talking about chisel chain, I don't use enough semi chisel to comment on that.
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You have been told misleading "information" - but both Oregon/Husky and Stihl have some models that you should avoid.
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18" sounds right regarding balance, but the 3/8x8 hardly is a good choise even with a 15", on a 61.
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The 291 is a "homeowner" class saw, with a plastic case and a clamshell style engine. It also is heavier than the (already heavy and bulky for a 50cc pro saw) 261. However, it looks like a better saw than the MS290, that it replaced. If I had to buy a Stihl saw in that class it no doubt would be a 261cm, but in the real world I would buy the much neater, lighter and handier Husky 550xp.
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The difference actually is very important, as the clutch is the same, but the drum is different.
