woodyguy
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Everything posted by woodyguy
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Like you I enjoy tung oil as a finish. The biggest drawback, apart from it not being very tough, is it taking several days for each layer to dry and several weeks to totally finish. I've been experimenting recently with adding setting agents like are added to make linseed oil "boiled". They are used in varnishes and printing industry and are generally cobalt salts. I bought a bottle from a printer supplier for £4 and you just add 1-2 drops to a bottle of the tung oil. It then polymerises in about a quarter the time of untreated oil but looks the same when its done. Certainly makes Tung oil a more usable finish for me as you can add a coat every few hours.
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Oh forgot to add, most danish oil is at least 50% thinners. If you compare tung oil with danish it is clearly mainly thinners, so why not just make your own??
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Danish Oil isn't a set recipe and many Danish oils have no tung in them at all. It is a mix of vegetable oils (sometimes linseed sometimes tung) with a small amount of varnish. So its really a wiping varnish not an oil. As someone said, varnish wont scratch as easily as any oil.
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Get one locally. They wanted over £20 a sapling for the hybrid. Frankly if you're growing non-English its easier to grow chinese or american or siberian from seed.
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It's pretty difficult to spray when it's 8 foot tall. With mine last year, I mulched it at this time of year then sprayed the regrowth at about 4foot tall with asulox in August. This year 99% of it has gone with only a tiny amount of regrowth which I will deal with in August. Its about the same speed as Roundup!
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You want to take cuttings 2-3 foot long. You halve the leaves to limit the water loss through transpiration. Keeping them out of bright sun will help. You cut below a leaf point and take off a few lower leaves but cut cleanly. Try some with rooting powder and some without as some species it delays routing. Bigger cuttings are often easier so try different sizes. Yes try layering as it may work. And finally, of course these are clones. Sadly though I've been observing elm trees since the 70's and recently many of the trees that survived the original infection have now died. But as others said, we need to keep trying. By the way, the nursery nationally that sells resistant elm isn't selling English elm but a hybrid.
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Would second the advice about avoiding now. I had to reduce a lovely big wych elm that had stood for many years and assumed it was immune. Had to cut it in mid summer and within a year it was stone dead from DED. So much for immunity!
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yes crab apple
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I had an 18 on an 362 jam recently. Sharpened chain and then couldn't move it around at all. Took chain off and bar tip wouldn't move even pushed with a screwdriver. Was going to throw the bar away as seized but tried washing it in a jug of white spirit. Soon got going and now good as new. I'd been felling a sweet chestnut and seemed to be some gumming up. No grit came out but some oily residue. Not sure if relevant but very odd at the time.
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I assumed it was free and was just a few off-cuts he wanted to get rid of. Very small volume, not worth the journey. Then I saw the £300 price tag. Joker, but have to admire his cheek.
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If you are interested the attached HSE leaflet lists the species. The only not helpful thing is that it confuses short term allergic reactions (which are unpleasant but not terribly dangerous) with long term effects on lung function with fine hardwood dusts- ie occupational lung diseases for joiners, which is a killer. Still a good starting point. http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/wis30.pdf
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Spud ported my milling saw. Well worth it and money well spent. True craftsman.
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Sneezing and runny nose in mid-May is very very likely to be hay fever. The reactions to sawdust are mainly around very fine sanding dust getting deep into your lungs and causing scarring ie they take many years. Some reactions to moulds can occur as you described with corn.
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Asulox/Asulam For Bracken
woodyguy replied to Sam Thompson's topic in Forestry and Woodland management
Today I went to have a look at an area of head high bracken that I treated in August last year. Wow. Not a head of bracken present at all. I'm amazed at just how effective it is from backpack spraying. Will definitely use it on other areas. Expensive to buy but brilliant value. -
The Jack Hargreaves TV series in the distant past had two episodes, one on re-tyring an iron tyred wheel and one where he visited a factory that still made them. Very interesting and you maybe able to find them on youtube.
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Russian vine isn't that difficult. Yes it grows fast but it dies fast when matched against professional strength glyphosate.
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Asulox/Asulam For Bracken
woodyguy replied to Sam Thompson's topic in Forestry and Woodland management
Its very harmful to ferns and watercourses. So there is an exemption for bracken only which gets repeated each year. The timing isn't to do with anything other than that is the time it is effective against the storage rhizomes in bracken. So you can use it that season only but not keep it for next season. So none of us would do that would we?? -
Asulox/Asulam For Bracken
woodyguy replied to Sam Thompson's topic in Forestry and Woodland management
As mentioned their and your possession of Asulox is illegal. But it will be on sale from the 19th May this year for a short period. Its not £300 per gallon but about £70. It needs to be fresh and to remain legal be used up or returned by October 2014. -
Replacing gorse with something else
woodyguy replied to spandit's topic in Forestry and Woodland management
I'd just plant away. As long as you clear/strim the regrowth once per year then it wont re-establish. I've been delighted at the massive growth of wild service that I planted 3 months ago. The big green buds looked out of place in January but now that they've put on 6 inches growth in 3 weeks I can see why they looked so plump. Great tree. -
I have a love hate relationship with them as they do tend to dominate a wood if left to their own devices. But if we didn't have them and someone suggested a fast growing very adaptable tree that would self seed and mature quickly whilst growing into a stunning mature tree, we'd be planting them left right and centre. We often don't value what is common and too easy. Have to say that as a young tree I prefer Norway Maples though.
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Interesting test of these sorts of wiping varnish eg truoil, on walnut. Mike's Oud Forums - Powered by XMB
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I've never seen a Danish oil that didn't contain Varnish. I've just finished a picnic table that I didn't realise was an oily hardwood. The wiping varnish has lifted and I will have to strip it down and seal with shellac first. Oak and others are fine but those oily tropical hardwoods can be really difficult. I shall strip, sand then degrease with acetone before coat of shellac. Sand back when dry and recoat shellac before varnishing.
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I've got about 2 acres of Holly that I'm clearing. Chainsaw down or mulch the smaller ones. The regrowth isn't spectacular and easy to spray when v young. 360 glyphosate kills it pretty quickly, or alternatively mulch blade once per year for few years. Can't say its the hardest thing to remove, compared to brambles and bracken.
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The pro lite is excellent, love mine.
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As in a recent post, teak oil isn't an oil but a wiping varnish. Teak is an oily wood ie it gives out oil. This can cause bubbling in varnishes, where the oil comes out under the varnish. I would either use a genuine oil like BLO or Tung or I'd seal it with shellac first then varnish/varnish oil mix.
