Gnome

I think the young uns call that T bagging or something nowadays :lol: Back to the original post. My Petzl Vent instructions clearly state that the helmet is for off ground work only. (I know Stein helmet in picture) By posting a picture in her lounge I was merely trying to keep the banter going from the post about the 660 and no helmet. Hence the :lol: As I don't use mine for Arb work yet (tower work,mewp and roofwork at the moment) I knew there might be some discussion about my post. I can see the hastle of changing helmets if you are giving the groundy a hand etc. But is this like using a top handle on the ground? Are there people out there who have to stick to this. I would be interested as I have to be very strict at my work and would like clarification from the experts on here. I don't fancy H&S tapping me on the shoulders. As for the OP I do hope you are having a good laugh at this. Next discussion Who else wears make up in a climbing helmet??? !!!!!!:lol:

Hows young Conner getting on Chris. Do you have goals for him each week? Do you have anything from the college to fill in?

Nah this stuff makes blu tac feel like the chewing gum you used to find under the tables at school. But I bet it doesn't taste as good !!! If your not sure you could try 1kg and see if you like it. You don't need alot of it. The blocks measure 2 1/2inches x 2 1/2 inches by 5 inches tall. I then trim the corners off to make a cylinder. Hey presto you have a log!!! I ordered a pack of the wooden carving tools and they work well with the product. Still not got round to painting them orange and making 2stroke noises. The blu tack must loose it's tac Dave?

On the plus side looks a good wee project for one of the carvers now. two fingered salute or something more profane.

A climbing helmet for working on the ground !!!!!!!:lol::lol:

Ever-Ready Modelling Plasticine | Homecrafts I got this stuff recently and found it good to work with. Ordered the 5kg but have only opened one of the 1kg blocks so far. Was looking for something that would not dry out and was easy to work, does both so thumbs up. I'm keeping my practice pieces in carte dor tubs to keep them fresh. And I go through a hell of a lot of ice cream!

That's a good idea Chris. It also will give your company the perception that you are nationwide. Good on the motorways etc. when people might see the Bang Tidy and say "Wow look how shiny that is, I bet you they know what they are doing..... Oh but it's a Newcastle number etc. they might not want to travel to Liverpool " With the 0800 number they will at least give you a ring Just a thought

I would reckon that the temperature is a more deciding factor than light levels for growth. Once the seed has emerged the amount of degree days( or hours) will decide the rate of growth and yield. A plant grown at 20oC for five hours daylight should show the same growth as one grown at 10oC for 10 hours daylight for example. The fact that in the summer we have longer days usually means we have higher temps this then gives the impression that it is the light that is doing the magic. In the winter the light levels can be still high on good days but if the temperature isn't high enough there will be little photosynthesis as the enzymes etc. won't be able to metabolize. This is a very generalised answer as it would depend on what type of plants you are growing and in what location as C3 and C4 plants have different responses to light levels. Wheat crops v Maize crops. The leaf angle and shape will also determine how much solar energy the plant can utilise. Once light reaches a certain intensity there will be no further benefit to the plant. The rainforest regions are in areas where the daylength is fairly stable all year round and the temperature is warm and humid. Due to weather systems and leaf canopy in the jungle the light levels are not as intense as the desert regions of the world but plants still thrive. I hope that makes sense and hope more learned people can clarify this. .

No charge, but if they offer a few beers I don't like to offend.

I do the same with my knife and fork but that was a whole different thread lol. I would think it was like driving a car to be fair. we all have the gear stick on the left hand. well most of us do, as that is the way we all learn(similar to any hand tools) they are usually awkward until we train our brain to use them. If they brought out left hand chainsaws I think the world might end so hopefully that pandoras box will stay closed. I'm rambling now.

Take it I'm the only one who uses a wee wood grenade and a club hammer !! eye protection as well !!! en166 and all that . Welcome to the forum. I have been looking at the Ochsenkopf Rotband Plus Splitting Axe, any thoughts on this. From Clarks. Or the Helko Vario 2000 1.5kg Splitting Axe from Gustharts. Gransfors would make a lovely present though.

A wee fish or a worm on a big hook.

The stihl brushknife (tri blade) might fit on your machine. Not as good as a mulching blade but I manage good results by using a combination of the swatting method and sweeping through the stems. This would be a low cost alternative and for this size of area IMHO would be the simplest solution to your problem. But if you need a bigger machine, as the mulching blades require, then go for it. Can't beat shiny new powerful machines !!

If you are looking for a general saw for gardening purposes I would recommend the MS211 with a 14" bar. You can then tackle stuff up to 28"diameter. If you are reducing hedges on a platform would a nice big silky not be more suitable? That's what I opt for. The MS150 rear handle 10"bar would be my other recommendation but haven't used it on a big hedge yet. It is light and as you will find on the site alot of the pro arbs are favouring them for conifer work. Remember that the chainsaw should not be used above chest height. If you don't have PPE then I would suggest pricing that first before buying a saw. Training can be expensive but if you are taking money for doing a job you should have been trained for the task. Check your insurance. Safety first.

The stihl one is a 4mix so you will need the more expensive 2stroke oil ( if you are following the manufacturers recommendations)plus another fuel can to keep it in, mix etc. This might not be an issue if you have other machines running this stuff. But i have found it a PITA having more containers to carry about. (Got a KM130) Something to think about as well as performance which I can't comment on with these models.

Do you stir it with a pick axe handle?

Feel a bit windy now lol.

I agree as well. Well worth keeping out the salad bowl.

Boiled Egg Madras

Kiwano???

Eat a few of them and you will be bouncing off the walls. Probably find your eyeballs will turn yellow too. I would think it is better to leave them alone. Alice in Wonderland material.

:lol::lol: Sun, Kilmarnock and beautiful don't go together. Grim and Kilmarnock do!!!!

Book arrived today. Nice size of book and IMO very clear for me to read. Had a quick skim through and there are plenty of terms for me to explore. Will keep my tiny mind occupied during my tea breaks.

I've got a FS 200 and has got a fair bit of power. 36cc if I remember. No idea what they paid as it was there before me so I recon it is about 6 or 7 years old. It was used and abused as well!!!!. I recon the parts will be easy enough to obtain as it is no longer produced.(not in the 2013 catalogue!) Thumbs up from me. If you have the cash and needing plenty of grunt I would recommend the 400 series as they are a joy to use imo. I also have a KM130 kombi machine which has similar power to the FS200 so the FS130 might be one to consider if you don't go for the FS240 option. I hope that is of use to you:sneaky2:

I've just ordered a copy One of my favourite words from back in college Ramification. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ramification_(botany) I don't know if it's any use but thought I would join the party. Look forward to reading your hard work. p.s. Nice one Rob I like fasciation!