amfell

check that the tie straps round the rivets havn't cracked, which could lead to separation in use

is the chain on the correct way round ? is the chain the correct pitch for the sprockets ? which model saw ? what numbers are stamped into the drivelinks ? what numbers are stamped / engraved into the guidebar ?

if it hasnt been used for a while, the grease around the piston thickens up putting the chisel on a piece of wood and making the hammer mechanism work will eventually warm the grease up enough ( might take 5 mins )

what you have is a K series Kholer service manual is here http://www.kohler-engine-parts.opeengines.com/pub/TP-2379.pdf or here http://gravelymanuals.com/pdf/Kohler_K91_K141_K161_K181_K241_K301_K321_Serv_Man_0472.pdf this is a 18Mb file parts lists are available online ( mostly US dealers)

this is the part you want eBay item number:151144953677 coil to flywheel air gap 0.2 to 0.3 mm

are you starting the saw with the top on ? make sure that the throttle linkage wire is working the throttle shaft it can miss when re-assembling is the choke slider knocking the choke off ? it can stick the choke flap on ( some have a horseshoe shaped wire that knocks the choke off ) it's easy to check the above by viewing down carb when the airfilter is removed

E P Barrus are shown as the importer but can't find any models on their website EP Barrus - Garden machinery, Marine, Vehicle, Industrial.

you should be aware that there are 2 different ignition systems fitted to the dolmar 123 the change occured in 1983 pre 83 the system was made by KDT (BOSCH) and had a seperate trigger unit (119146100) and seperate ignition coil (119143100) post 83 the system was made by SEM and was a fully enclosed combined unit (119142200) each system had its own respective flywheel the 123, 133 , were both the same ignition system the 309 disc cutter isbasically the same engine but has different part numbers for the parts and after 1995 was fitted with an internal speed limiter

I have got the National Certificate in Occupational Health and Safety, fortunately work paid for it (£1600), last year we studied over a 10 week course for 1 day per week , which seemed better than doing 2 blocks of 5 days (which is the method some of our other staff had studied by) there is a lot of extra reading that can be done beforehand as if it's done intensively you might not have time to do it of an evening , its fairly detailed covers about 15 sections the exams at the end, are a pain , 2 full blown written exams but only 10 questions in each , around 1 1/2 to 2 pages are expected per question, all questions must be attempted as marks are given for correct application of knowledge in relevant sections even if not completed , 2 hours per paper, no multi choice there is also a practical assignment (management report of a safety inspection) that must be completed 1 week after exam date there are previous exam papers available online for download ( you can find free ones if you know where to look) and the examiners reports from previous years that show what topics should have been covered for each question and where the marks were lost , they have a habit of repeating questions over the years but just tweaking them slightly there is a good coursebook that should be provided with your course it might be worth finding out which one is being used and getting one beforehand and covering the first couple of sections which cover the health and safety laws and the management principles of H&S was it worth all the effort and hard work ? Yes it's a recognised course & it makes you think about different aspects of H&S

blade rotation when turning flywheel is likely to be seized clutchdrum needle roller bearing (they run on a small bush not direct on the crank ) or one of the clutch linings has become detatched and jammed or possibly clutch spring broken have known them ingest the screws that secure the airfilter trumpet to the carb make sure the horseshoe shaped wire on the choke slider is fitted and in the correct position as it knockes the choke off ( they can jam on) they are a bit of a fiddle adjusting the idle, the screw is at a strange angle accessed through a hole units made before april 1985 did have points and condenser ignition

Midland power machinery have a couple part munber FL23 universal punch or 9308320 punch for Tecomec chain breaker http://www.midlandpower.co.uk/products might be worth phoning them to get sizes and prices 01905 763027 or Garden hire spares have one part number 3261

if you are only making chains with an even number of drive links you can eliminate the gap from the missing cutter by sacrificing 1 drive link from the end of the roll then the next chain made will have a full set of left and right cutters, if you are making chains of varying lengths or all odd drive link count chains it don't matter at 12000 rpm 3/8 chain is doing 87.5 feet per second or 26.67 meters per second a few tips for making chains make sure preset and loose tie strap are the right way up they have a notch that goes towards the bar rails, it enables the spur sprocket teeth to fully engage the drive link. ensure that you havent got a knot or double loop in the chain before joining (we have all done it - specialy embarasing if customer is stood waiting and you have to break and remake chain again ). if using oregon chain be aware of the 'lubri-link' tie straps they have a small indentation that is designed to retain oil, if you put it on 'inside out' it will create a tight chain. when 'spinning the rivets' a little bit of lubrication on both sides of the spinning anvil and take-up handle will reduce friction when 'spinning the rivets' dont go all 'gung-ho' and try to complete the joint in one go (its easier to put the chain back in the tool to tighten a slack joint than loosen one that is tight ) there are two different sizes of anvil and take-up inserts make sure you have the right one in the tool if you are making chains of diferent pitches be careful when punching the rivets out when breaking the chain the drive links can bend if not sat on the punch anvil correctly

my money is on a blocked exhaust or exhaust port hedge cutters arn't generally used with wide open throttle i have seen exhausts cleaned out by putting them in wood burner overnight remove the exhaust and give is a small run to prove it can reach top revs

Don't do it , waste oil contains small metal particles that have worn off the inside of the engine , these will act like grinding paste that will in a short time cause wear in your Oil Pump, Guide Bar & Chain and as others have said carcinogenic, environmentally unfriendly, makes a black mess of your saw

L&S Engineers list the correct part number priced at £95.24 Flywheel for Stihl 066 - 1122 400 1216 | Only £95.24 | Other Stihl Spares

if you start drilling holes in the carb casing it will let unfiltered air around the carb as the air filter seals on the lip of the aluminium carb casing leading to ingestion of dust with the air/fuel mix and worn cylinder and seizure, the greatest culprit of dust ingestion "the builders disc cutter " years ago there were a few saws that had no access to the mixture screws without removing the air filter cover dolmar 101 / poulan 25 come to mind mainly as spud says tweak carb screws a little, put filter back on & check

its a Solo 610 made in Germany

user manual McCulloch Mac 130 Chainsaw Parts List it's a while since i had one of these in bits they are a bit of a fiddle but can be sorted it has 2 screws securing front handle on the case splits just by the filler caps 2 screws 1 below top handle screw 1 at bottom of case 1 screw by stop switch 1 screw underneath 1 screw beneath air filter cover remove rubber shroud/sealing ring behind air filter remove screw from choke lever and pull choke lever off drain fuel & oil remove 2 screws from rear of top handle locate wire linkage on end of throttle trigger and pry from slot remove front cover to expose fuel tank on underneath there is a white plastic lug in a rectangular slot this is fuel connection to tank push this into saw remove engine and tank as a unit the oil connector is just pushed into a hole in the tank i think this should help dismantling andy

fuel tank breather blocked, building pressure up and pushing it past carb needle valve ( black smoke = mixture too rich) or the coil is breaking down when hot and causing intermittent spark

the bearing is made up of little rollers be warned the steel that the guidebar is made from is very hard and will blunt a new drill bit in seconds

it's over the border in cumbria weasdale nurseries at Kirkby stephen or Weasdale Nurseries - Home