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se7enthdevil

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Everything posted by se7enthdevil

  1. se7enthdevil
    depends on your tastes really, you could go the traditional route and use short slabs for legs or possibly an A frame or H frame set of legs. there are many methods of fixing but the most common are a batton underneath for rustic looks or large dowels through the top or for neater fixings there are numerous invisible ways to utilise.
  2. se7enthdevil
    once in stick you need to put a really heavy load on top, like another set of slabs. i think with holm oak it's 50/50 but the chance of getting such beautiful grain is worth it in my opinion.
  3. se7enthdevil
    i just looked up the bark of a norway and it's a dead ringer so i reckon it's a safe bet that they are norway.
  4. se7enthdevil
    usually with a leaf but if you've left the bark on i may be able to use that. endgrain identification will be the only other way. Norway Maple | The Wood Database - Lumber Identification (Hardwoods) all maples have a slightly different endgrain pattern so you should be able to tell them apart.
  5. se7enthdevil
    a couple of bowl blanks would be ok mate but it must be 100% identifiable as norway. what sizes did you mill?
  6. se7enthdevil
    not sure on it's drying properties but i would very much like a sample to send to the wood database website... do you have any chunky branches?
  7. se7enthdevil
    wooden bowls for eating from were carved in medieval times and bodgers would have undoubtedly used the larger bits but i couldn't say what for. split hazel can be used for carving love spoons or just a normal spoon and probably was used to turn spindle for holding threads in the old days. sadly most of the uses of hazel have been usurped by manmade materials.
  8. se7enthdevil
    the first two photos look too far gone to get a normal representation of the unspalted timber but the last pic looks like it might be ok once cut open.
  9. se7enthdevil
    that's pretty much what wide belt sanders have replaced but they still have their place in my opinion. i hope to have the space to own one at some point. i did find on the net that some 72" wide belt sanders are in the states. 72? Timesaver Model Top 168V Belt Grinder Sander Top Driven | eBay
  10. se7enthdevil
    hi all, i need some 6x4" tulipwood and hoped someone on here will have some that i can buy. g getting it from a lumber yard would be expensive for the 1 board i need so if anyone has some or knows of a joinery yard who does then i'd be interested to hear from you. obviously i will pay the ft3 price of the timber and a courier to send it to me. 2m would be enough. can be offcuts...
  11. se7enthdevil
    uses for hazel can be quite a few when you dig up older records, just a few i've found on the net are, wattle and daub, thatch brooches, runner bean poles, net stakes, water divining sticks, hurdles and furniture, pea sticks , friction firelighting, basketry, walking sticks and shepherds crooks.
  12. se7enthdevil
    well said mate. the next one who posts it should be killed:lol:
  13. se7enthdevil
    don't think there is one that wide around, i think they only go up to about 1350mm. is it a table top?
  14. se7enthdevil
    use a bitumen paint, it'll double the lifespan of the ply.
  15. se7enthdevil
    just to let anyone know who still wants it, the wood database book is getting a reprint as the first lot sold out quite quickly. it should be available at the end of february.
  16. se7enthdevil
    i've got a jet 3520b too, great aren't they... it sounds like the nova is quite technical so you may need to ask nova or you could try asking on the AWGB forum as there is a wealth of knowledge there (and people who own the same lathe) so you should be able to get some answers or have someone point you in the right direction.
  17. se7enthdevil
    not had one so don't know exactly what you are referring too but why would you need the lathe to remember the speeds? you just turn it to whatever speed you need for whatever item you are turning...
  18. se7enthdevil
    force drying definitely does something to the quality of the timber and it may leech out a bit of the calorific value but it's probably ok for firewood. i buy beech in both forms for my turnery and it is noticeable that the kiln dried beech is weaker in structure which is a problem for me as i make skittles from them and the 4"x4" kiln dried pins get beaten up very quickly but the air dried material i buy lasts a good years or two longer before they need replacing.
  19. se7enthdevil
    did you mill them then?
  20. se7enthdevil
    it still looks too good to be firewood? how wide is it?
  21. se7enthdevil
    probably 2" but it depends on the size of the tree. what diameter is it and how long?
  22. se7enthdevil
    but he's already tried it???
  23. se7enthdevil
    well i use danish oil but that doesn't seem to like the water if some of my bowls get drips on them. if you are expecting it to stay pristine then forget it. don't forget that iroko has it's own oils and what you are putting on the worktop may be reacting with it.
  24. se7enthdevil
    following on from rihanna, fergal sharkey.
  25. se7enthdevil
    well after another night next to the fire it's not lost any more weight. when i say it's next to the fire i don't mean it's in front of it. there is a 4" gap either side of the stove which gets too hot to leave your hand in for more than a second and that's where it's been. it splits and cracks the wood alot when i put slightly damp lumps in the gap to dry before they go in the fire. my beech block is still losing weight and is 60 grams down and i expect it to lose a bit more yet.

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