se7enthdevil
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Everything posted by se7enthdevil
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not had one so don't know exactly what you are referring too but why would you need the lathe to remember the speeds? you just turn it to whatever speed you need for whatever item you are turning...
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force drying definitely does something to the quality of the timber and it may leech out a bit of the calorific value but it's probably ok for firewood. i buy beech in both forms for my turnery and it is noticeable that the kiln dried beech is weaker in structure which is a problem for me as i make skittles from them and the 4"x4" kiln dried pins get beaten up very quickly but the air dried material i buy lasts a good years or two longer before they need replacing.
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did you mill them then?
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it still looks too good to be firewood? how wide is it?
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probably 2" but it depends on the size of the tree. what diameter is it and how long?
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but he's already tried it???
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well i use danish oil but that doesn't seem to like the water if some of my bowls get drips on them. if you are expecting it to stay pristine then forget it. don't forget that iroko has it's own oils and what you are putting on the worktop may be reacting with it.
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following on from rihanna, fergal sharkey.
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well after another night next to the fire it's not lost any more weight. when i say it's next to the fire i don't mean it's in front of it. there is a 4" gap either side of the stove which gets too hot to leave your hand in for more than a second and that's where it's been. it splits and cracks the wood alot when i put slightly damp lumps in the gap to dry before they go in the fire. my beech block is still losing weight and is 60 grams down and i expect it to lose a bit more yet.
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i've got 4 of theses things. 10ft x 20ft Reinforced Heavy Duty PVC (Polyvinyl Chloride) Sheets | eBay they are actually old advertising sheets but they are really heavy duty and i use them to cover my timber. not sure if they are value for money or not but they really do the job. they are definitely tear proof, seemingly UV proof and i would buy more if i need to.
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well it's still next to the fire so if it loses any more then i'll know about it. the oak has not even been in that windy a place so i was quite surprised that it's only lost 30g but i'm doing the same with a few more samples and getting similar results. i've got some 5" cubes of beech that i expect to be fairly wet as they were only milled in march/april and left in builders bags and i've weighed one of them so i'll see how much weight it's lost by tomorrow as i've left it in front of the fire since 5pm.
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i bought in a few lumps of oak that i split in january thinking that they probably need another year to be good and dry. i weighed a bit then cooked it next to the fore expecting a 10-20% loss in weight. it lost 30 grams from 585... 11 months is enough it seems.
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if it's nice brown oak then a few holes may not be a problem, furniture made with that sort of stuff would be opk but you need someone who will want to use it. don't firewood the whole thing... any pics of the extent of the worm?
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it looks like there is more fungi on there than trees. are these trees only to be ones from the uk or are you bloging about any fact wordwide?
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rot should be easy as you just need to keep moisture away from it but the worms can be more difficult. i just stack and isolate the wood and check it regularly but there are substances you can spray on it that do the job. i'd ask one of the milling boys on here what the best stuff to use is.
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2016 New Years Resolutions!... lets hear 'em......
se7enthdevil replied to SteveA's topic in General chat
my resolution is not to cock it up... -
as long as you can keep it free of worm and rot then you can keep it for decades. i've had a few bits of oak that were barn stored for 30-40 years and were in great nick but like stone.
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most species have some sort of hardening unless they get a fungal infection (not always obvious or visible) which breaks down the lignin making splitting easier. i had some ash which had been left outside and the parts that had not succumbed to rot were like stone and bone dry...
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a bigger pair:lol::lol: lengthwise my feet are size 11 but i buy a 12 as i have very wide feet and it allows them to spread a bit.
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i use the timber for my own purposes but if i had the space i would eventually look to selling it too. i don't yet have an alaskan and work out of my garden so get other people to slice and dice the wod for me.
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norway maple required please for turning
se7enthdevil replied to se7enthdevil's topic in Woodcraft Forum
4"x1" is too small but 4"x4" would be great, how much would you want for a length? -
norway maple required please for turning
se7enthdevil replied to se7enthdevil's topic in Woodcraft Forum
yes i'm interested, how dry are they jon? -
hi all i need a bit of norway maple for turning and was hoping that someone has a some small specimen or a lump of firewood that i could use... dry milled boards are obviously preferable but i'll take firewood if its fairly dry. if anyone has anything then please let me know.
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unusual timber samples needed can you help?
se7enthdevil replied to se7enthdevil's topic in Woodcraft Forum
if we can get a package of timbers together then i will pay for a courier. he does have the species of coastal redwood (sequoia sempervirens) but not giant redwood/wellingtonia (sequoiadendron giganteum) or the dawn redwood (metasequoia glyptostroboides). if you have a species that is not on this list then please let me know. By Scientific Name | The Wood Database -
well i've already turned some of the whitebeam and it's a really nice one to turn. it oxidises to orange very quickly but will come up white again once dry. weighs a ton green. i cut a block and it worked out at 72lbft3...
