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Woodworks

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Everything posted by Woodworks

  1. Thanks all So Sip, Pfanner or stick with the Yukon's. Will pop into Abbey and see what they can do
  2. The grain is quite like Utile. So hard to tell without a fresh face exposed
  3. Steve looks on the money but much easier to tell if you could plane up a piece
  4. So what do expensive trousers offer over cheapie's?
  5. So what do you all wear? I am torn between sticking with the cheap Oregan Yukon's and trying something more expensive and and hoping they last a long long time as the Yukons's do me a good few years of part time ground work.
  6. Only piece of kit that has given me a proper scare. I just found myself getting sucked into dangerous practices with it and it had to go before I had a mishap.
  7. You saying spud and others can achieve more precision in a small workshop than factories with masses of CNC kit? No disrespect ment to to spud as he can clearly get more oomf from a saw.
  8. Yes but you dont stand right by the exhaust pipe and vehicles have much more stringent emissions rules than saws as far as I can tell. If there was no drawback to porting surly manufacturers would make the adaptions as standard?
  9. What are emissions like on ported saws? It's another aspect to safety that I presume porting bypasses.
  10. Poor chap hope he can get back into climbing I have had my frights with splitters (Hycrack) and gone to a modern vertical splitter which requires two handed operation. One thing that can help keep things safer is a large splitting table. I have added a large table to ours which allows a helper to get logs up off the floor but nowhere near the splitting blade but one person operation is bound to be the safest approach.
  11. Our processor bar wears unevenly as well. I think it's just the nature of the work. When you have nearly finished the cut the log starts to lean before it falls creating uneven presure. You dont get that when using a chainsaw on a log on the floor. Combine that with what must be thousands of cuts in day and it doesn't seem surprising that the bar gets a bit of uneven wear
  12. Yes the Oregon file is not very hard IME. I use regular Bahco file in one of these for dressing bars. Only dressed the cheaper Sugihara bars though http://www.axminster.co.uk/veritas-jointer-edger-600304
  13. Cue Bob making a harvester from parts lying around the workshop! Painted blue of course
  14. Got myself a Jassic MIG unit in the end and had my first dabble at welding making an extra roller support for the processor. Not exactly a masterpiece but the two bits of box are stuck together
  15. Yes probably excessive loader work was the cause. Wasn't doing anything out of the ordinary at the time though. Its hard comparing all the various machines and how they will work. Turning circle is one thing but then there is loader overhang to take into account. I looked up the Same but it seemed a bit big but surprised it's turning circle is as good as the Kubota so will take another look at it. A dedicated loader would be a boon though as I could leave the tractor with forestry trailer hitched up and move and stack the crates as I go along. Never been short of grunt with our little tractor at 55hp just need more weight and substantial build. Oh lord it's dong my head in and not the best at putting my hand in my pocket at the best of times
  16. Somehow overlooked this. Do you know what the turning circle of yours is? I cant find it online
  17. Rather disappointing end to the year breaking the front wheel off the tractor. A cast spigot has sheared off inside the bearing
  18. Looks like I may need to find a solution sooner rather than later as I have just broken off the front wheel of the poor little tractor
  19. Thanks for the ideas. Looking around I dont think any tractor that can handle a tonne on the loader is going to be small enough and manoeuvrable enough around our yards and buildings. A mast on the back sounds like a nice idea but lot of hassle to put on and off and I dont fancy having to look behind all the time. Back to the drawing board. Came across this which would be perfect for crate handling in our small yards and sheds but no tractor replacement. Pretty much what gdh was suggesting I guess and back into Mulitone money but probably better for the task at hand.
  20. Yes that is a right PITA. Had rats in our place every winter chewing through the air barrier and insulation. Think I have finally stopped them getting in but took some doing. They had chewed through the mortar where the wall adjoins a shed roof. Put more mortar in with strong mix but back in a the next winter. Filled the hole with injection resin and put a steel plate over it seems to have stopped the little bu@@ers
  21. Yes you want to keep them fairly even in length. A few tenths of a mm here or there is fine but more than this you will start to notice it cutting less well. Some callipers to check the lengths can come in very handy. Lidl do a vernier gauge for around £10 from time to time For general sharpening I take this advise "learn how the geometry of a cutting tooth works, what it should look like when sharpened correctly. Then practice different methods until you master the ones that work best for you."
  22. I would not want to be paying for arb waste. I work for guys who take it in for free and process for them and it's slow going. What size is your trailer? I recon with nice straight timber I could get 1.6 tonne max on our 10'x5'. With twisty arb waste it would be less. Pretty much 2m3 of logs per tonne of wood.
  23. You heard of some blowing up Stubby? It was my fear but got rid before it could happen to mine.
  24. Not clear how you are planning to dry your logs. Presume the container is for machinery storage as it sure as hell wont be any good for drying them. For a simple firewood set up just buy in roundwood and get a contract processor in to cut it up for you. I do this for a couple of logs sellers and works well for them and keeps the overheads down.
  25. Haha yes safe to say it's on the wet side here

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