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Woodworks

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Everything posted by Woodworks

  1. Wow that is cheap. Could be OK as there is not much to these machines beyond the gearing and cutters which do need to be tough. My favourite was posted somewhere on Arbtalk which was Polish and came with a small conveyor for less than a TR 70
  2. So are you looking to do finger joints? Only ask as for boxes I would go for a Woodrat. A truly brilliant machine once you get your head around it. Perfect for dovetails and finger joints.
  3. What are looking to do with it Ian? I had one of these but other than the cast table didn't really rate it but then I am spoilt having a spindle moulder that can take router cutters. RPMS-R-MK2 Heavy Cast Router Table with Sliding Table Not difficult to build your own and just buy an insert for fitting the router on to. All the spring and hold down look nice on fancy tables but a MDF feather board takes mins to make and work great. You see tables made to do loads of different jobs but all I can say is in a reasonably well equipped workshop all mine gets used for is some mouldings with either bearing cutters or a straight fence.
  4. As Steve said I can't see the point if the wood is still wet as it's going to warp plus most glues don't bond so well to wet wood. If you do want to use glue I would recommend a PU glue as these cope much better with moisture present in the wood as water is the catalyst to make them set. I would bolt it up without glue now leave it to dry then if you feel like it needs it take it apart, square up the faces and then glue back together.
  5. Nothing like the standard of the above pictures but finally did a bit of laying on the farm today. Not pretty but probably stock proof which is my main aim.
  6. Looks very good James. Like your home made crates that you deliver in as well. As said you could do with some guide on volumes.
  7. Sounds good. I used M10 but it's not as heavy a bench as yours and used regular bar not stainless which has weaker threads. To keep it neat I would cut large holes on the edge so the nuts can be recessed, allow for socket size if doing this. Good luck
  8. Just to say thank you Barry for fast work. Ordered up some bits for my saw yesterday afternoon and they are in my hands now. Many thanks Beau
  9. I would use 10mm or 12mm. Drill one side with the other board butted up against it and hopefully you have along enough bit to get through one and mark the other then drill the second board from the reference marks from you first set of holes. Worth having a second person to help you to eye up whether you are drilling square. With smaller sized bar it will have enough flex in it to hammer through if the angle of the two holes are not quite the same. Hope that makes sense
  10. If the wood is not very dry I would not try to glue them as this is likely to fail as the boards dry. A loose tenon is a good idea wether you glue or not as it will keep them from stepping on the join. I would go with the threaded bar but can't see it stopping the boards from warping if they choose to go. Took this approach for my chainsaw workbench and it's fine but needed a fair bit of tightening after the first summer. You could in future when the board have dried plane it all up square and then glue. The tenons and threaded bar would not be wasted.
  11. Good spot thanks. Steve Yes it's not perfect but he as only charged me £200 so not going to quibble. We did try to redo the sound and talking bit but guess it didn't not come out well. The more I rehearsed the more I stumbled over the words. Hate having a camera in my face at the best of times. Thanks all again for your help Beau
  12. Have a search on here think both Rowan and Mortimer Firewood use one.
  13. Think the Thor 13 tonne was pretty popular and fast. Don't think I have ever seen a bad word about them on here Thor 13 ton Farmer 230v log splitter. Never used one myself.
  14. If a hydraulic machine did take that long many of us would not use them but most many don't. Ours has a cycle time on a 630mm stroke of 3.1-6.3 seconds depending on power required and if your doing shorter logs this becomes less again as you can adjust how far the ram returns.
  15. Thought you had a tractor TVI. These machines look great but you are getting one log at a time and that falls on the floor. With a good tractor mounted vertical machine you get a deep blade that can be making more than one cut at a time and the split log is to hand to chuck into nets etc.
  16. Got the second edit back. This better? again the password is logs[ame] [/ame]
  17. Don't know on the tonne to m3 conversions. If you do search on here think it's been discussed before. TCD is pretty clued up on that sort of thing.
  18. Probably varies regionally but would expect to pay around £45 a tonne down here at present. £10 -£12 for the haulage
  19. It's one of the great functions of the Farmi
  20. Message already sent
  21. No not Jess. Apparently their regular seller has vanished and they need a bit more to see out the season. Could do it but it's probably 45 mins each way so not exactly profitable. Let me know if you want their number.
  22. Got another one. Needed dry logs to Mutley area
  23. This looks like sound advise. Be interested to hear if you can get PEG as not seen it done in years. Good luck either way
  24. Think you will find most of the complaints on her about the Dmax on here are mine. It is quite as specific problem which stems from doing lots of short trips delivering logs. From all I have read on here and elsewhere if you get to do decent length trips and can open it up from time to time on main roads you should be fine. Other than my one issue it's a good truck.
  25. When looking into it some years back thought the Rytec was good value. All pretty simple and handling billits is not going to be too hard on kit so never saw the need for Posch quality.

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