Rich2484

What vid???

This is true but with kids being at school it only takes one kid to bring it in. I really feel for when my boy gets ill with it. It's just plain messy. Not a lot you can do to help either.

My guess would be using his phone signal rather than using a wifi connection

Site just doesn't like you hamdog :lol::lol:

Ok. Spud is the best man to describe how this works but I will give it a shot. The brake band is the piece you are thinking off that is in the cover. When the cover is put on the saw this band will fit around the brake drum. Offer the cover up to the saw and you should be able to see what we mean. When the brake handle is applied it snaps this band around the drum stopping it and so stopping the chain. If the band is not sitting over the drum properly it will effect the chain. Think of a handbrake on a car sticking on. For a bit more info the clutch is central fugal and the fast the engine is the further out the clutch plates move engaging the drum. On the main saw in the first lot of pictures. The band will sit around the outside of this drum, when handle is in off position it allows the drum to spin. When on position the band will clamp around the drum and stop it. The brake brawl is the funny shaped part at the top of the cover. Sort of star shaped or a bit like a radioactive type sign bit. This fits onto the handle part of the saw. Again offer it up and see how it fits together. When the handle is on it engages this brawl and activates the chain break. The chain brake band snaps into position by springs and all sorts of linkages. Take the cover apart and watch them go flying out. (Don't do this unless you know where it all fits together) What we are looking at is if the band is engaged the drum will not fit around it but hit the drum and push on in a funny way. If you have access to a vice or way of clamping the cover down use an open ended spanned or a pair of pliers open in the brawl (star shaped bit) and turn it. You will see the band open out or close in. With the band opened out it will fit over the drum properly. Should ensure the chain moves freely. This is the best I can really do to explain something I'm afraid so if it makes no sense the only thing I can advise is to just offer the cover up to the saw without the bar on and just take a few minutes looking at how it all fits together. Keep pulling it away and offering it back until you get to see where all the bits fit together. Sorry I don't have any husky saws to put any pics up for you.

:thumbup: Give it a go.

Good point. Looking at it it doesn't look like its sitting on the plates around the band. Looks too deep into the cover. Not sure about it pinching the chain but if its pushing the cover in at an angle it could do.

Was wondering why arbtalk was a bit quiet today. Don't forget some good pics lads.

Think that chain break looks on to me rather than off. Something must be pinching the chain on the front of the cover. Either by the tensioner or above it. Try the original chain again and have a good look turning the saw upside down while tightening up the nut. See what is touching the chain. Are you sure the cover is going on properly? If it is catching on something at the back it will not go on square and pinch the front up. The nut should tighten up and only pinch the bar. Looks like any plastic transport covers have been removed by the pictures on page one. It's hard not having the saw in hand to look at hence asking for pictures as they speak a thousand words. Sorry if all the above sounds simple but sometimes it's the simple things that get over looked.

So what do you use then??? An honest question. I wouldn't touch this ground spikes, they fail too easily.

Sorry but I'm going to be real pain. Can you post a pic of the chain tensioner aswell please. There is not a lot I can see wrong. Exept for the chain issue. And in pic three looks like the cover is pinching a bit.

Had exactly the same on my 260. Took me for ever to find out what it was. Was a very blonde moment. then I came on here and asked the question. That was how I found this forum and probably the start of my tech on saws. Keep any eye on it as I have had it pop out once since and I put a new longer piece of pipe on. Been fine ever since.

Nope. I did have it twice last year. It a really strange one as it seems to hit at night when your tired then stops really quick. I felt really hungry after and had to eat but didn't stop eating. I hate this bug and really don't want it again but at least it only lasts a few hours. I was throwing up until about 4 am last time and went to work the morning. Feel for you mate. It seems to be spreading a bit this year so onto a matter of time....

Poison will only work for so long. Then you have to change it and use another type. Rats are good at building up resistance quick. I remember the garden gun. Do they even make them anymore???

Yep. The tornique is only a very last resort. If all else fails. They should only be applied for max 15 mins before being released and then reapplied. A max of 4 bandages are applied before using a pressure point. After this if it all fails then the tornique is to be used. Although chances are if the dressings fail and so dies the pressure points you've had it anyway. Edit. That looks like an impressive bit of kit.

Any chance of putting a picture up both with the bar on and off. Focusing on the nut.

I've always said halfords do a gunston tester for 25quid mine hasn't let me down and had a couple of years. Best investment I have made as its the first thing I pick up and use on any engine. If its getting fuel and has spark that only really leaves comp. Could be a carb issue but it should run with fuel getting in even if it will be rough running.

The 034 is fixed and running beautifully again. With a short bar its perfect for logging. Started working on a 026 in the last hour of work. Exept this one is a secret personal project. Got one more 200t to sort but waiting on a part for it. Then it's a good tune and test and away it goes.

Comp will drop when warm. Have you tried all the usuall stuff. You've done spark but is there fuel? Is the plug wet when taken out after trying to start?? Need to comp test it. Does it start again when cooled down?? Probably me being thick but where abouts are you in country. I know it's Oldham but not sure where that is.

Cor some people. Why would you want to do a silly thing like that for That's how you loose tools. :lol:

Yes if you can buy new then do. Better if it goes wrong. I use an ms260 and cannot fault it at all. I love the thing.

Mike. They are on the outside but smooth inside. I use a jubilee clip but they do wear after a while so get through a couple. Here is the 034 I'm working on. The carb is leaking on the gaskets so sorted them. Just need to fire it up and see what happens. No leak on meter valve.

Get a mog.

Good thread this as I always wounder over loler and stuff. Every climber will give there kit a once over before use, but if the loler trained "man" hasn't tested the kit and you have a mishap would your ins company pay out if an employee gets hurt. Either climber or groundie using the lowering kit??? And, I know you are self employed etc but just using your post as you mention regs.

The county is ok. But and a big one here. The 4x4 box used to destroy itself and finding one now is rocking horse doo dah. You will find plenty of county's out there but most will have the 2wd box on them. Best go with a landy and difflock. 4x4 will only get you so far, those wheels start spinning and you've had it. IMO